Code P0357

LQ1906

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So I'm driving and then at idle i notice the car would shudder or misfire, and so I kept on driving and then the dreaded CEL popped on.....took it to Autozone and it popped code P0357....either the infamous coil pack or spark plug but of course they don't know which. CarFax showed these were just all replaced two years ago so I was hoping to get some more time/wear out of them....hope there also isn't a VCG leak. I guess this repair will have to wait since I'm guessing the transmission issue needs to be priority over the coil packs and spark plugs. Man at 81K miles its hard to believe that you would be replacing this well before the 100K mile mark.
 
You gotta replace those with OER as they can CAUSE a whole lot of problems,including TRANSMISSION probs. don-ohio :)^)
 
Hey wait - is this the car you described that had the coil and gasket work done at Ford? If thats the case, you have a two year warranty (24 months) on the work/parts. If its slipped beyond that a bit, I sure would make a ruckus too. Ford knows current COPS dont fail in two ish years without a reason.
 
LQ,

P035x DTCs are often caused by the coil connector or harness as well as the COP itself.

Pull the drivers side coil cover off, remove coil # 7, second from the back. Don't remove the plug, look down into the plug well and see if there is any water or oil down there. Do not remove the plug if there is.

Coil G also known as #7 is shorting to ground, you'll need to check coil and connector.

Myself I'd swap coil 7 to 6 and 6 to 7, clear code with OBDII reader and try again. If the problem moved to # 6, I would then realize it's the coil itself. If not then the problem is related to the connector or harness to #7

As with any used LS that show symptoms of running rough or such, I'd prefer to pull all coils, look down wells before removing plugs, if dry, remove plugs, throw it all in the garbage and replace all coils with Ford OEM DG529's. All new NGK Iridium plugs correctly gapped and verified at 0.040mm, even .038 and .039 is nice. Use dielectric grease inside the coil boots. Reseat all coil connectors gently and ensure you feel and hear the little click as it snaps in.

I'd even run it with the coil covers off for a bit to keep an eye on them until 100% sure problem corrected.

I wouldn't screw around with mismatch coils and plugs, it's either all new fresh OEM stuff or nothing at all. All at once, not one coil or two plugs here and there ... waste of time!

CARFAX states coils replaced two year ago means jack ... should see the crap I've pulled out from under coil covers. Shops and dealers tend to only replace what is broken, thus after a few visits, you end up with all mismatched differant aged coils and plugs. NOT GOOD.

Up to you of course, what do I know!

GLWR
 
... including TRANSMISSION probs. don-ohio :)^)

Blowing smoke up people's asses again are we?

I'll explain but for others as you wouldn't understand nor care to understand anyhow.

Failing/misfiring coils do NOT create transmission problems as stated. Nothing wrong with trans. Nothing within the trans needs fixing.

What happens is the failing and misfiring coils generate EMI, Electric Magnetic Interference toward the nearby PCM, it creates havoc on this delicate little item we know as the COMPUTER, that controls the power train amongst other operations.

Specifically a marginal failing coil #4 which is closest to the nonshielded or not enough shielded PCM, will irritate it to the point where it will throw a bad throttle body code causing it to go into failsafe mode and if you continue to drive it like that it will and can begin to buck the transmission shifts. It'll bang in and out of gears but there is not a transmission problem per say. Clearly not good for it obviously.

Suggested is to not drive it like that unless you have a wallet to support such a dumb move. Restarting the car can and will clear the failsafe but the cycle continues as the EMI persists until the coil issue is resolved.

I picked up an 04 LSE on the cheap because the guy was frustrated with the dealership after having been talked into 2700$ worth of work that included a new throttle body. It continued to go into failsafe mode. Having already scanned it and knowing of this problem and having 8 brand new Visteon coils on the shelves back home, I bought it, slapped a borrowed dealer plate on it and got it home gently on the back roads without hitting it into failsafe mode. Anything over 60kmh or too much throttle would set it off again.

Put a known good older OEM coil on #4 and problem went away immediately, no transmission problems what so ever.

Replaced all coils and all plugs and hasn't given me any troubles since. To date the transmission has been fine with the exception as of late I've got a slight bang in and out of park at times, which I know to be the shift solenoid or possibly the PCM needs to be reworked. I blame my excessive lead footed beating on it. Not any fault of failing coil issues.

Anyhow .... whatever .... not even looking at the upcoming silly rebuttal. LOL :)^)
 
BR, LQ is working through tranny problem, its in another thread. Just so you know his frustrations at this point. :)

LQ, As I shared, still resolve the tranny issues first like BR points out at the end his solenoid is 'aging'. Be prepared to chase the coils though, lets hope you do have some warranty fall back to keep costs at bay.
 
Get the problem resolved right away (before the transmission, in my opinion), or it could cost you $2K in catalytic converters.
(I say this because you have to drive the car somewhere to get the transmission fixed. You don't have to drive it anywhere to get the coil(s) fixed first.)
 
BR, LQ is working through tranny problem, its in another thread. Just so you know his frustrations at this point. :)
...

And of course you've already been at it a while to fully understand that the EMI to the PCM can make it behave like it has issues with the trans ?

Pardon me, did not mean to steal your show, carry on, best of luck.
 
My solenoid is 'aging' ??? WTF is that?

Shift kit in stock transmission???

Whatever ....
 
I found a nice set of coils and NGK iridium spark plugs so maybe I'll go ahead and do that first and lets see what happens then. I talked to my guy who has a bunch of tools about us working on it together instead of paying someone to put the coils and spark plugs in. Hopefully no oil in the spark plug/ignition chambers
 
LQ, maybe I should have expounded on that according to LIL Rig, but I was pointing out that bad coils cause interference which can affect the PCM which GIVES YOU A TRANS. PROBLEM.
Lil Rig always looking for criticizing me cause he's jealous.LOL! don-ohio :)^)

Here's his misunderstood critical quote:`Specifically a marginal failing coil #4 which is closest to the nonshielded or not enough shielded PCM, will irritate it to the point where it will throw a bad throttle body code causing it to go into failsafe mode and if you continue to drive it like that it will and can begin to buck the transmission shifts. It'll bang in and out of gears but there is not a transmission problem per say. Clearly not good for it obviously.'
 
P0357 is coil #7,,, which IIRC is right next to the oil fill on the V8 LS. Somebody could have spilled oil when adding oil,,, which seeped down onto that coil pack... shorting out the plug boot to the head if moisture built up under the coil covers. If the coill boot on #7 has a white milky substance on it... replace the coil boot with a new boot kit available at most auto parts stores for less than $10,,, and you will be happily on your way.

Don't ask me how I know this. :)

Beyond that... leave the coil covers off. While they make the engine look prettier,,, all they do is trap heat... and shorten the life of the coils.


Honestly Don... is all you can do is regurgitate what you have been told??? Or repeat what makes sense to your limited understanding???
 
Honestly 04, I learn from this forum just like everyone else. I gave LQ good advice..........same thing Joe said later. Fix the coils first!
I had an experience with the V-6 coils causing the throttle signal to go haywire. I've driven my LSes, several tens of thousands of miles.
Quit picking on people and your heart will last longer. LOL! don-ohio :)^)
 
Quote LQ:

"I found a nice set of coils and NGK iridium spark plugs so maybe I'll go ahead and do that first and lets see what happens then. I talked to my guy who has a bunch of tools about us working on it together instead of paying someone to put the coils and spark plugs in. Hopefully no oil in the spark plug/ignition chambers."

Back when I bougfht my LS in late winter/early spring of 2011... it had 73K+ on the odometer. It wasn't a couple months later when it started dropping coils. Sooo... I ended up buying 8 Borg Warner coils from my local O'Reilly's at roughly $45 each, (with a lifetime warranty), and afterwards bought 8 Bosch Iridium plugs from Rock Auto.

As Big Rig said... I found a couple coils and plugs replaced by some dealer past,,, instead of all 8. Do it all at once or don't do it at all is my motto. So... 100k+ miles later,,, I am still running the Borg Warner coils and Bosch Iridium plugs with only one mishap. It was coil number 7,,, and all I did was change the boot, (which came with spring/electrode)... and I have had no problems to this day with misfiring coils.

It only takes about an hour to change plugs and coils,,, if taking your time. Twice as long if having a few brewskis with a friend. Enjoy the time,,, and the the bonding time.
 
Don... my heart will do much better without you causing me grief. Please go away! Many people on this forum despise,,, and try to correct your misgivings... but you do not heed advice,,, so you get what you deserve. I will not respond to you from this point on in this thread... unless your advice is in error.
 
Good riddance Don. If your LS has the V6,,, it is the same engine found in the Ford Taurus and Escape for many years,,, and is a different animal from the Jag designed V8. You seem to be an old dog... that can't learn new tricks. if that is the case... then you are out dated and ignorant.

Bye Don!!!
 
Need I add that the V6 has more of a standard "overflow" reservoir,,, rather than the pressurized degas bottle of the V8. So much for an "unpressurized" cooling system theory.
 
LQ, maybe I should have expounded on that according to LIL Rig, but I was pointing out that bad coils cause interference which can affect the PCM which GIVES YOU A TRANS. PROBLEM.
Lil Rig always looking for criticizing me cause he's jealous.LOL! don-ohio :)^)

Here's his misunderstood critical quote:`Specifically a marginal failing coil #4 which is closest to the nonshielded or not enough shielded PCM, will irritate it to the point where it will throw a bad throttle body code causing it to go into failsafe mode and if you continue to drive it like that it will and can begin to buck the transmission shifts. It'll bang in and out of gears but there is not a transmission problem per say. Clearly not good for it obviously.'

F*cking retarded ... takes my text to make himself look correct. Yet misses the point of no trans problem.

Idiot
 
Good riddance Don ... ignorant ... Bye Don!!!


Yup, Bye, bye Captain Shrimp Boat !!!

He's outta here, problem gone. Status: BANNED

Now let's get this forum back to where it used to be, others helping others ... without all that garbage misleading wrong taunting information.

+1
 
LQ, I see your online right now and I did get your PM.

I see you got some coils and plugs, good stuff.

Go ahead and replace all coils and plugs first, get it running right first. Caution with the little brittle coil connectors, use a small screwdriver to lift gently up on the tab and pull the connectors apart. Don't pull by the wires. Use a flashlight and or a mirror to look down the plug wells, don't pull the plugs out if there is any. Clean it up with a bit of paper towel or something, just probe it down and around the plug if needed. I doubt there will be lots if any. Hopefully not.

Be sure to double check the gapping on the plugs, they should all be set at .040mm

There should be a Tech article on it in the Tech Section on the top menu bar. I think.

An air filter and fuel filter would also be a good idea at this time.

Your trans will most likely need a shift solenoid.
For now disconnect the battery terminals for longer then 30 min while your changing the coils and plugs. Hook them back up afterwards and see where were at with the shifting. Shouldn't rule out that the PCM may have to be send for repair. It's also not that bad. We can explain that if needed.

Good luck, anyone here will gladly help you if you need anything.
 
LQ, I see your online right now and I did get your PM.

I see you got some coils and plugs, good stuff.

Go ahead and replace all coils and plugs first, get it running right first. Caution with the little brittle coil connectors, use a small screwdriver to lift gently up on the tab and pull the connectors apart. Don't pull by the wires. Use a flashlight and or a mirror to look down the plug wells, don't pull the plugs out if there is any. Clean it up with a bit of paper towel or something, just probe it down and around the plug if needed. I doubt there will be lots if any. Hopefully not.

Be sure to double check the gapping on the plugs, they should all be set at .040mm

There should be a Tech article on it in the Tech Section on the top menu bar. I think.

An air filter and fuel filter would also be a good idea at this time.

Your trans will most likely need a shift solenoid.
For now disconnect the battery terminals for longer then 30 min while your changing the coils and plugs. Hook them back up afterwards and see where were at with the shifting. Shouldn't rule out that the PCM may have to be send for repair. It's also not that bad. We can explain that if needed.

Good luck, anyone here will gladly help you if you need anything.

Thank you, that''s exactly where I plan to start. Plan on doing it within the next weekend or two when I can get out to Dyer, IN. So as not to screw things up further I just parked the LS in the garage. Though I did do my first wash on it yesterday since I washed it but that hard shifting made me nervous and the near stalling now from the coils....i just said I don't want any new problems so I'll just drive the '16 MKZ for now 20160409_175058.jpg20160409_175112.jpg20160410_010519.jpg

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Quote BigRig:

"F*cking retarded ... takes my text to make himself look correct."

Yeah... he's really good at that.

Really??? He's banned??? Time for a happy dance!!!!!!!
 
Need I add that the V6 has more of a standard "overflow" reservoir,,, rather than the pressurized degas bottle of the V8. So much for an "unpressurized" cooling system theory.

The V6 dos have the same type cooling system. Had the degas fail on the way to The Happiest Place on Earth years ago...
 

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