Radiator upper hose change 2002 Lincoln LS v6 Please help

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zsquared24

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So my car is sitting on the side of the road and I am hoping to change it tommorrow. I have ordered the part from for i know its expensive but we need it quick and it is the only place near that carries it. I was wondering if anyone could tell me the procedure and if this is possible to do yourself. I need to do it myself because this is our only car and we are pretty broke. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The part going to the engine from the T broke off and they said they only had the whole thing. Can you get to the parts that the rest connects to I have searched all over the net and cant even find a picture that shows the engine properly I don't have the car here at the moment and don't know how to plan for this. Thanks, Zach
 
The job is a pain. A word of warning I purchased a Motorcraft hose from Rock Auto and the line going to the lower heater hose was 1 inch and my original one was 3/4 of an inch. I had to use an plumbing fitting from Home Depot to make it work.

My car has a manual transmission so its possible that the automatic 1st generation V6s use a 1 inch line to the heater.
 
pragmatic said:
The job is a pain. A word of warning I purchased a Motorcraft hose from Rock Auto and the line going to the lower heater hose was 1 inch and my original one was 3/4 of an inch. I had to use an plumbing fitting from Home Depot to make it work.

My car has a manual transmission so its possible that the automatic 1st generation V6s use a 1 inch line to the heater.
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Everything about working on this car seems to be a pain just no room to work. Glad to hear that it is possible. I am going to have a look at it on my way to pick up the extremely overpriced part and if I don't think I can do it will probably just have it pulled home or to a shop. Do you have any tips about removing things is it just space that is the issue?
 
I was able to change it. Took the air intake tube off and it wasn't that bad. Thank god it is running again, part costed 171 dollars though. Should have waited a few days and got one shipped but with the fourth coming up I am just thrilled to have it done overpriced part and all. I just popped the old one off put the new piece on and hooked everything back up then filled with water. I don't guess you were supposed to do anything else.
 
zsquared24 said:
...I don't guess you were supposed to do anything else.
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Guess again. There is a very specific filling and bleeding procedure. It's posted on here in a few hundred threads.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/

You really should have gotten all of the plastic cooling system parts and replaced them all now. The rest of them will be failing one by one very soon. Once one goes, the rest follow. Your degas bottle will probably be next. Get the Ford one, not the aftermarket one. Search this board if you want to know why.
 
zsquared24 said:
I was able to change it. Took the air intake tube off and it wasn't that bad. Thank god it is running again, part costed 171 dollars though. Should have waited a few days and got one shipped but with the fourth coming up I am just thrilled to have it done overpriced part and all. I just popped the old one off put the new piece on and hooked everything back up then filled with water. I don't guess you were supposed to do anything else.
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Yup you missed one very important step and that rush to get the job down so you can enjoy your holiday might have you on the side of the road.


BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM IF YOU DO NOT BLEED THE AIR YOUR CAR WILL OVER HEAT. YOUR LS IS NO EXCEPTION FROM ALL LS's
 
FDR said:
The LS does not take kindly to that situation. Something to consider before more things go wrong...
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Heck just wait till that new hose put pressure on them old plastic parts, you think that one hose was costly.

You just at the beginning of this fun ride.
 
Also if you don't know how to work on cars get yourself real acquainted with this one.

I remember working over night twelve hours just to get off and spend another six hours fighting with replacing the radiator, which I removed and replaced from the top cause I didn't have a jack large enough to get it in the air to do it the simple and easy way which is drop it out from the bottom,

Build your tool box up and get your uber driver on speed dial.
 
i broke my upper rad hose barb going to the intake on my gen 2 v6 and i drilled out the barb and fitted it with a brass barb.. runs great now but its temp.. will be ordering one from ford directly now that i know the rock auto one is 1 inch rather than 3/4
 
zsquared24 said:
..... hooked everything back up then filled with water.
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From the 2001 owner's manual:

When the engine is cool, add a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and distilled water to the engine coolant reservoir, until the coolant is at the“cold fill level” or within the “cold fill range” as listed in the engine coolant reservoir (depending upon application).

•NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
•NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%

But since you will likely be bleeding this system again very soon, maybe the water only refill may just be a temporary situation.
 
And, if he used tap water, depending on the phosphate content of his tap water, it could be very bad on the aluminum (engine) parts.
 
The V6 Ford upper radiator hose kit already comes with the plastic parts, only thing it does not come with that will need replacement is the degas bottle. That said, I just bought a replacement upper hose kit from Rock Auto from an unknown vendor for around $50. I have yet to open the box and inspect it, but I bought it because the cold fill level plug on my 5 year old new upper hose kit from Ford lost its retention ability. It is a 1/4 turn o-ring sealed plug that has a slot in it for turning it with a screwdriver. It's pretty crazy to have such a fragile piece of such importance standing between you and a blown engine. I have mine tie-wrapped into place with multiple loops of tie wraps to hold it down in place. The $50 hose from Rock Auto has these things in the replacement part and may have a more robust method of plugging that point in the plastic manifold, such as commonly available pipe cap plugs instead of the super fragile 1/4 turn plug.
 
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