new owner / 2000 ls

didn't have a rivet gun for the dust shields - i keep the car clean, and this is really
a 3rd car for me, so it doesn't get driven THAT often. should be okay.

dust boots are now on, that was just the last thing we did with zip ties before finishing up.
 
When I switched my knuckles I drilled the rivets out of the dust shield and used 1/4"-20 bolts with nylock nuts to reattach it. My suspension is polished so I want to keep it as clean as I can. You're making good progress, keep it up.
 
we thought about drilling those out and doing something like that, but
decided just not to eff with it.

car is coming along, going for 4 wheel alignment and a few coolant r&r's
later this week.

love driving the car though. super comfy, moderate power ( could always
use more ), and fair handling.
 
elephantrider,
Good, informative post, thank you.
This is all stuff I'm wanting to do to my LS. I did know about the brake piston tool, but don't know what it is, could you post a pic or something telling size. I'm wondering if I may have something already.
Are the nuts and bolts metric or American standard or both?
 
Rick C. said:
elephantrider,
Good, informative post, thank you.
This is all stuff I'm wanting to do to my LS. I did know about the brake piston tool, but don't know what it is, could you post a pic or something telling size. I'm wondering if I may have something already.
Are the nuts and bolts metric or American standard or both?
Click to expand...

Metric....... Harbor Freight has the tool. IIRC, it's about $35 for a universal set. Local auto parts stores sell a generic cube device that is cheap for a reason. The Harbor Freight tool is well worth the cost. I've used it many times.......

http://t.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-pc-61381.html

Looks like it went up in price but has more adapters.
 
correct - all are metric sizes. the part # that the service manual
shows for the brake tool is ST1112-A, if that helps. i needed new
rears anyway, so i didnt worry about it.

the harbor freight tool would REALLY be handy in that situation though,
as it would be very tough to turn and push with the cheapo cube, or
trying to use a c clamp, etc....
 
Thanks guys,
I don't have anything like that. Always use the right tool for the job( hand me that torch).
I'm a millwright, so I have a lot of top quality tools, just mostly American Std. not many metric, 3/8 socket set, allen wrench set and allen socket set, time to expand I guess.
I see steering knuckle (or whatever it's called) Is that a part that has to be replaced instead of installing a new ball joint?
 
Rick C. said:
I see steering knuckle (or whatever it's called) Is that a part that has to be replaced instead of installing a new ball joint?
Click to expand...

yup, this whole piece needs to be changed out to keep from having to swap ball joint only.
i went ahead and put new hubs on, too w/abs sensors.

20150110_134445_RichtoneHDR_zps983e948c.jpg
 
Thanks elephantrider,
I should have worded the question differently. Can the ball joints themselves be changed in the old knuckle? If so, why change the whole thing, better metal, damage to old one, cost difference doesn't justify the labor difference (usually the rationality I use )? I see your staying with the cut springs, seems to be a good way to do it. I dropped a 90 mustang gt 1 1/2", bought an entire kit to do so. It looked great, handled great, but every little bump rattled the dash apart. The lowered springs were too stiff for a daily driver. Cutting softer stock springs seems to be a solution.

Great job!!
 
gotcha - yes you could change the ball joint only out, but i was changing
the hub anyway, and it was cheaper / easier to just change out the whole
assembly.

the springs are suprisingly soft, even cut. rides like a pillow.
 
elephantrider said:
... and a few coolant r&r's later this week.
Click to expand...

Just want to point out that if your going to get into the LS plumbing, <br>
there is a JAGUAR T-stat housing available for the 1ST GEN, all Aluminum, cheaper and direct fit.

ÜRO PARTS ~ p/n NCE2247ADKIT = Jaguar Aluminum Thermostat housing (upgrade direct fit to 1st GEN LS)


attachment.jpg


~ Jag housing comes with new rubber O-rings, use those provided.
~ Use Lincoln LS brand thermostat not the Jaguar thermostat (different release pressure)

see my thread: Re&Re - Jag Aluminum Upgraded Thermostat housing - GEN 1 V8




I'd throw a new Degas bottle in it while your at it! >> Re&Re - OEM Degas Bottle - GEN 1 V8
Yours will have hairline cracks in it, telling you now! (unless already replaced)

Also, Re&RE - OEM Coolant Outlet Pipe - GEN 1 V8

attachment.jpg








elephantrider said:
... rides like a pillow.
Click to expand...

Too much information, <br>
don't need to know what you do in your bedroom at night!
 
...and i do appreciate the additional info, bigrig !

i ride harder than a pillow, just fyi hahahahahahahaha
 
joegr said:
I'd leave the cracked Motorcraft bottle in rather than the Dorman bottle he would be likely to put in...
Click to expand...


Joe, you need to have a SNICKERS - You're not you when you're hungry!

attachment.jpg

Robin Williams, 1951-2014 ~ RIP​
 
No peanuts for you? No worries, enough peanuts in this here gallery!
 
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