do transmission lines need to be flushed?

Mainly the cooler, but yes, the lines should be flushed, especially if it is being replaced due to a catastrophic failure. I am not sure if there is a section of rubber hose in the cooler line, but those in line filters with magnet (magnafine?) that you just leave there and it bypasses when clogged should be included too.
 
Bangster said:
Mainly the cooler, but yes, the lines should be flushed, especially if it is being replaced due to a catastrophic failure. I am not sure if there is a section of rubber hose in the cooler line, but those in line filters with magnet (magnafine?) that you just leave there and it bypasses when clogged should be included too.
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Please define catastrophic failure? I stopped at a stop sign and almost couldn't pull away. Never had any indication of a problem before. No slipping,no noise absolutely nothing except no fwd gears. I almost couldn't get up my mild driveway. I find it hard to believe the whole transmission is gone without any prior indication?
 
I guess it all depends on what you find suspended in the fluid, and at the bottom of the pan. If it is a problem with worn or smoked frictions, or something is metal to metal and wearing, then it can be in the lines and cooler.

A number of companies have cans with solvent, compressed, with adapters to fit the lines at the transmission. You remove both lines at the transmission, plug in the can to one, the other into a container, and flush it.
 
Bangster said:
I guess it all depends on what you find suspended in the fluid, and at the bottom of the pan. If it is a problem with worn or smoked frictions, or something is metal to metal and wearing, then it can be in the lines and cooler.

A number of companies have cans with solvent, compressed, with adapters to fit the lines at the transmission. You remove both lines at the transmission, plug in the can to one, the other into a container, and flush it.
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Why wouldn't the tranny filter catch that?
Is there even a remote chance that having a really good transmission man pull the pan and see if there is something obvious that could have gone out to keep it from going forward and could be easily repaired like a solenoid or broken spring?
 
The shift solenoids are below the VB, so all you need to do is pull the pan.

If it was an electrical/sensor issue, you would have a check transmission message, with the light blinking, and generally it goes into limp mode and you have second gear.

There are lots of things that can go wrong that can be fixed without pulling the transmission, however with this post starting off about flushing "new" (I missed that, meaning you would replace them?) lines, then a little (very little) information on what is actually happening, hard to do even basic "internet" troubleshooting.

If you barely have forward gear, even when manually selecting first or second, what happens? Does the car bog down, does it rev up (like it is in neutral), any odd noises? What does the fluid look like? Do you have reverse? If you can manually select gears 1 or 2, do you have engine braking when letting off or does it freewheel?
 
Bangster, read my post 3 above. I do have reverse,but no fwd. I was able to get it home in 2nd but barely. Right now on an almost level driveway 2nd is the only gear that may work but it's very high RPM to get it to move. I'm thinking that it could be the torque converter and I know you have to pull it to replace that. But since there was no grinding or slipping before it quit going fwd.maybe it was the solenoids or a spring or possibly it could be the friction belt I saw an ad for?
 
that's how my trans failed.
no/little forward, but i still had reverse.
the forward clutch is going to be quite crispy i'm afraid.
rebuild time.
 
Sounds like you are in need of a trans rebuild/replacement. If you or any one else is going to do this be sure that the lines are flushed, and you get a new torque convertor as well. When the clutches wear the particle size is so small that they often are not totally filtered out, and if a trans has been neglected and abused then you can count on this contamination being everywhere. This is one of the reasons they recommend filter changes. All of this contamination also finds itself in the TC, which serves as a very efficient centrifuge and debris catcher. This is why you need to install a new one. They aren't that expensive(stock). Based on where you live I'd also get a plate type transmission cooler installed, as well as getting a drain plug installed in the oil pan. Make sure that you use Mercon V fluid also. Get a couple extra quarts, and while you are under the car flush out and replace the power steering fluid with the new Mercon V.
 
Roadboss said:
Sounds like you are in need of a trans rebuild/replacement. If you or any one else is going to do this be sure that the lines are flushed, and you get a new torque convertor as well. When the clutches wear the particle size is so small that they often are not totally filtered out, and if a trans has been neglected and abused then you can count on this contamination being everywhere. This is one of the reasons they recommend filter changes. All of this contamination also finds itself in the TC, which serves as a very efficient centrifuge and debris catcher. This is why you need to install a new one. They aren't that expensive(stock). Based on where you live I'd also get a plate type transmission cooler installed, as well as getting a drain plug installed in the oil pan. Make sure that you use Mercon V fluid also. Get a couple extra quarts, and while you are under the car flush out and replace the power steering fluid with the new Mercon V.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Are you saying use Merton 5 transmission fluid in the power steering and not power steering fluid?
 
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