beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
I tried searching but found nothing. Has anyone changed the solenoid that opens the fuel fill door?
Fuel door solenoid
- Thread starter beerdog
- Start date
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Is it clicking but not opening?
If it's not doing anything i'd check the popper wiring/plug first. If it's clicking but not opening use some wd40 or equivalent on the latch.
If it's not doing anything i'd check the popper wiring/plug first. If it's clicking but not opening use some wd40 or equivalent on the latch.
I removed mine in an attempt to make it close the fuel door more flush with the car, that didn't help.
There are quite a few places it can fail, electrically and mechanically. I assume you can manually open it with the pull in the trunk? The button (every one I test drove or looked at the button was gone, and shortly after I got my car the button failed and flew out), at the solenoid itself electrically or mechanically.
There are quite a few places it can fail, electrically and mechanically. I assume you can manually open it with the pull in the trunk? The button (every one I test drove or looked at the button was gone, and shortly after I got my car the button failed and flew out), at the solenoid itself electrically or mechanically.
beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
It clicks but does not open. I will give some lube a try. maybe it is catching.
chargerxr
Dedicated LVC Member
If it clicks but doesn't open the spring steel piece that pushes it open is probably broke.
ONLYTONY
Dedicated LVC Member
On my 95 the spring broke, and I added a coil spring, ( like a ball point pen but a little larger),attached with a screw and washer. That was about 5 years ago, and still works well. I've been through a lot of btns/switches that flew apart. There is enough room to re-mold the little tips that break off when the btn launches, if you have all the parts. Contact doesn't happen until the btn is almost all the way depressed. I painted a few to match the interior.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Mine had the same problem when I bought it 7 years ago. I make sure I hit it with some lube once a year to keep it fresh. Don't be afraid to spray the heck out of it.
This is the spring and latch on the fuel door. I bent mine a little to let the door close more and not be sticking out 1/4 of an inch:
Not relevant since you hear the click at the solenoid, but this is how I fixed my broken button. At the time I didn't have a graphite button, but the chrome one matches the the trunk pop so I like it better.
Not relevant since you hear the click at the solenoid, but this is how I fixed my broken button. At the time I didn't have a graphite button, but the chrome one matches the the trunk pop so I like it better.
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
Your parts whoring impresses me.
I leave at least half of the older Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car ones for others to get, I always grab the color switch bodies from FN10s, and selectively grab them from Continentals. I am not destructive in removing them unless the door panel is already destroyed.
If I could mail these out for cheap and in a way they wouldn't get broken in the mail I would happily send them out. They seem to be very poor quality on the early FN10, the 95-97 Panthers that use the same switch body the button is better quality, and 98+ with the different switch body same better buttons.
I rarely if ever pay for them. Only when I had two full switches did they charge me for a connector end (75 cents), generally don't charge for things like this, depending on what else you have. I didn't start "collecting" them until mine broke, and I couldn't figure out exactly how they went back together (and I found the retaining ends on mine had broken off). Only other thing I seem to hoard are good condition Continental exterior door handle buckets and handles, in available FN10 colors or chrome handles.
If I could mail these out for cheap and in a way they wouldn't get broken in the mail I would happily send them out. They seem to be very poor quality on the early FN10, the 95-97 Panthers that use the same switch body the button is better quality, and 98+ with the different switch body same better buttons.
I rarely if ever pay for them. Only when I had two full switches did they charge me for a connector end (75 cents), generally don't charge for things like this, depending on what else you have. I didn't start "collecting" them until mine broke, and I couldn't figure out exactly how they went back together (and I found the retaining ends on mine had broken off). Only other thing I seem to hoard are good condition Continental exterior door handle buckets and handles, in available FN10 colors or chrome handles.
ONLYTONY
Dedicated LVC Member
Looking at all those buttons puts a tear in my eye. Here in CRAPPY CT we don't have pick a part. If we did, I'd have to get a bigger house.