Hello all, my remote stopped working a few days ago. I tested the all the internals of the remote which came back as good. I suspect the problem is coming from the receiver in the car. Is there a fuse for remote receiver?
Remote does not communicate with car :stumped:
- Thread starter fudge12
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Is there a year for your car?
Look up the fuse for the driver's door module in your owner's manual. (Hint, if the driver's lock is working, then it's not a fuse.)
Also, just because you know your remote is transmitting, you don't know that it is transmitting correctly.
Look up the fuse for the driver's door module in your owner's manual. (Hint, if the driver's lock is working, then it's not a fuse.)
Also, just because you know your remote is transmitting, you don't know that it is transmitting correctly.
Yes its the 00' v6. The drivers lock is working indeed. I was thinking the same with the remote as even a new battery didn't help. I'm looking into buying a remote but I can't seem to find any instructions for the Gen 1, it seems like a dealer only thing
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, sadly only a dealer or someone with a really good scan tool will be able to program new remotes. If it comes down to that, I would get two (or up to four), since the charge to program in two will be the same as one. Then you would have a spare. If you only have one key, this would be a good time to get a couple more keys as well.
I just purchased two remotes that should be here Thursday. Any idea what a dealership would charge to program them in?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Probably the standard diagnostic charge. If you have a good relationship with them, you might get them to do for free while you get an oil change or something. (It doesn't hurt to bring the service guys doughnuts every now and then.)
TorquE
LVC Member
So I have a question, now that I see this thread. I have an aftermarket alarm system, a viper, and whenever I press the unlock button on either remote it chirps and tells me it unlocks but it doesnt actually unlock anything. The lock works, but the unlock doesn't. I have to use the key to unlock the door. The alarm still disables/enables the way it should. Any thoughts?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, it's wired in wrong for your LS, or a connection came loose (so poorly done). In any event, there's no way to guess at how yours was installed. It'll need troubleshooting by someone at the car, not over the internet.
TorquE
LVC Member
Thank you, Joegr. Everything worked for a while, a few months and then all of a sudden it stopped working. I'll take it to a sound guy near me and see if he can find out what the issue is. Thanks again.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
should be an easy one to figure out, all vipers have a negative trigger lock wire, with the LS, that wire need to be ran inside the drivers door and tapped into a wire at the DDM. the vipers "factory alarm disarm" wire also needs to be tapped into this wire, both should be connected together right at the brain, isolated from each other with a pair of diodes, and then ran into the door with a single wire.
heres something to try...
roll down the drivers window.
press the lock button on the drivers door
shut door
wait two minutes the reach in through drivers window and open the door from the inside handle.
this should set of the OEM car alarm
then press unlock on the viper remote. Does this shut off the OEM alarm? if it does, then the disarm wire is fine so its probably where the two wires were joined together, if it affects both wires, then it could be the connection at the DDM. its at least a place to start troubleshooting and to know what area to take a look at first. actually i would probably start testing the brain first making sure it doesn't have a bad output (very rare) and give you a chance to see how well or how poorly it was installed.
heres something to try...
roll down the drivers window.
press the lock button on the drivers door
shut door
wait two minutes the reach in through drivers window and open the door from the inside handle.
this should set of the OEM car alarm
then press unlock on the viper remote. Does this shut off the OEM alarm? if it does, then the disarm wire is fine so its probably where the two wires were joined together, if it affects both wires, then it could be the connection at the DDM. its at least a place to start troubleshooting and to know what area to take a look at first. actually i would probably start testing the brain first making sure it doesn't have a bad output (very rare) and give you a chance to see how well or how poorly it was installed.
TorquE
LVC Member
Thank you very much for your response. I tried this yesterday and it does indeed disable the alarm. Even if I put the key in before hitting the unlock button and attempt to start the car (without pressing unlock) the alarm will sound and I can disable it with the unlock button.
I'm going to print out your recommendations for when I take the car in to have it looked at this weekend. I know nothing of electrical work or alarms so I don't want to screw it up more than it already is.
I'm going to print out your recommendations for when I take the car in to have it looked at this weekend. I know nothing of electrical work or alarms so I don't want to screw it up more than it already is.
wow i see that this thread has gotten a far way lol. Anywho, I hope you get your alarm fixed TorqueE. I haven't been on here since my last post due to the time I've been spending to replace a head gasket on my friends Nissan Sentra. That thing is PITA to get to.
In other news, I called up the dealership and they told me $35 to program the remotes. What has me a little skeptical is the fact that he mentioned to me that aftermarket remotes have problems programming. Anyone who has bought aftermarket remotes such as from eBay, have you been having any problems with them?
In other news, I called up the dealership and they told me $35 to program the remotes. What has me a little skeptical is the fact that he mentioned to me that aftermarket remotes have problems programming. Anyone who has bought aftermarket remotes such as from eBay, have you been having any problems with them?
jolinc01
Dedicated LVC Member
I bought 2 keys and remotes from eBay when I had my LS. Dealership charged me $80 to program all 3, and they worked until the day I traded it.
mrdougiefresh1
LVC Member
Put the key in the ignition turn it on and off 8 times ending with it on the on position. Your doors should cycle on and off and this point. Press any button on the key fob, the doors should cycle again signaling that remote has been programmed. See if this works
Finally got my old remote working again. By removing the two IC's from the board and resoldering them back, it works like a charm and the button response/range is a heck lot better than when I originally got my car! I hope this helps anyone else that has a problem with their remotes!
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
I see a lot of aftermarket remotes come in with cracked solder joints on all different parts of the circuit board, when asked for a demonstration of the client using them, they are usually pressing on the button with the force of a thousand suns because they think if its not working pressing the button harder will make it work. I think this is causing to much flex cracking the sloder most likely happened the first time the batteries were due to be changed...
I completely agree with you. I too am guilty of pressing the buttons with all my strength if the button didn't respond to my first command. I did notice that the aftermarket remote has a better button system since it involves using an actual button instead of contacts. I'm still searching of a way to transplant the chips from the original remote to the aftermarket one, but it's a no-go due to the fact that aftermarket ones use only one chip verses the OEM which uses two chips.