2000 ls Dies after start-up and won't start back.

[Johnny Football]

Hello all, I bought a 2000 ls from a mechanic the other day. He had been fooling with it a while and claimed it needed to go to the ford dealership to have a key made.

Little history about the car; it was repossessed without the original key, only a key for the doors. The key for the doors will not even turn the ignition, it has been cut wrong. The mechanic bought the car from the dealership he does work for. The mechanic got the ladies name off the title and contacted her for the original key. He paid her 50 bucks for it. SHE SAID SHE WOULD TRUST THE CAR TO GO ANYWHERE before it was repossessed.

Here is what the car is doing. Put the battery cable on the car, hit the lock and unlock button on the key fob, then crank it, it will start for about 10 seconds. Then you can tell the fuel is being cut out and it finally dies. It will not start back unless you go through the motions of taking the battery cable back off. No security light and no alarm sounding.

Any ideas? and thank-you

 

[joegr]

Disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF and see if it will stay running that way.

 

[Johnny Football]

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately that wasn't it. One thing I didn't mention is that the security light never comes on.

 

[2002_lincolnLS]

have you put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail to be sure it is losing pressure?

Also have you checked the relays, they may be on their way out I suppose could be possible while not likely it would work part of the time.

Any codes?

Large vacuum leaks?

Also my car did the same thing when the cats where fully clogged and there wan't a light. Pull the front o2 sensors and see if runs longer. My car would start occasionally then just die

 

[86markviilsc]

Does it stumble and die, or just shut off?

 

[Telco]

A few suggestions to check into:

A failing oil pressure cutoff switch can cause this. These are usually used to keep the engine from killing itself if it loses oil pressure. The computer will usually ignore this sensor for X number of seconds on startup to let the car build pressure. If this switch is defective, then I can see the car running for a few seconds then dying. The only thing is, I don't know if the LS actually uses one of these switches. Someone who knows the car better, like perhaps Joegr, would need to answer on that.

Might also try resetting the fuel cutoff switch which I believe is in the trunk behind the carpet on the driver side just in case it's in a partial reset condition. This switch's purpose is to cut fuel in the event of an accident, and they have been known to trip from hitting a hard pothole. They aren't supposed to go into a partial reset condition, should be either on or off, but you never know what a failing electrical module will do. If resetting this module fixes the problem, I would replace it because failing electrical components never get better.

Thirdly, replace the fuel filter. A clogged fuel filter can cause this, by allowing enough fuel to be pushed through to pressurize the fuel system but not allow enough through to keep the car running. Replacing the fuel filter is a good idea in any case. The fuel filter on these cars can be found behind the driver side front wheel well liner, to the rear of the tire. No, I'm not kidding, this is actually where they put the fuel filter on these cars.

 

[Johnny Football]

I got it fixed guys. Funny thing though, the security light never comes on or flashes. From what I understand, that isn't suppose to happen but, the car runs with no cel's on the dash

 

[joegr]

I got it fixed guys. Funny thing though, the security light never comes on or flashes. From what I understand, that isn't suppose to happen but, the car runs with no cel's on the dash

Does it flash when you are outside and the car is locked?
Do the automatic headlights work?

 

[LS4me]

I got it fixed guys. Funny thing though, the security light never comes on or flashes. From what I understand, that isn't suppose to happen but, the car runs with no cel's on the dash

And........ HOW???????????

 

[Johnny Football]

I don't know about outside the car, I will check tomorrow though. The lights do flash when I hit the button on the key fob.

It was the fuel pump. When the mechanic checked it, he swore he didn't have power to the fuel pump. He had multiple diodes, relays, and fuses under the hood and in the trunk. Plus the fuel pump was unplugged so I know he checked it.

Only things I changed are; I put a 15 amp fuse in the fuse box where he had a 20 amp and I took the 860 cranking amp battery off my foxbody and used it because I didn't have time to fully charge the other. Also, I used a multimeter to check it and he always uses a test light....

I was worried because the security light never comes on with the key in but, the fuel pump fixed me right up.

Edit: I didn't know the car had automatic lights.lol This is really the first one I have ever owned or worked on. I will check them though.

 

[Johnny Football]

Little update, finally got the car mechanically sound. All I like is a tail light and a fog light. And the mechanic I bought the car from is absolutely sick. He told me he feels like he gave it to me. I got around 1500 in this thing including the fuel pump, 8 plugs, 1 coil, 4 new tires and a 4 wheel alignment.

 

[regiment1]

Nice work! Love to see it when someone brings one back!

Did you put in the correct, vented battery? I notice you mentioned a battery from another car.

 

[Johnny Football]

I did. Actually the old battery charged up. I just used the one off my fox to test with since the ls battery was low of charge from sitting so long.

 

[1LoudLS]

All I like is a tail light and a fog light. And the mechanic I bought the car from is absolutely sick. He told me he feels like he gave it to me. I got around 1500 in this thing

well, you probably did him a favor. continuing to use test lights on modern day cars controlled by many sensitive computers will probably come back to bite him in the ass sooner or later...