Would low transmission fluid be causing this problem with my LS?

MichiganLS

New LVC Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
United States
I have a 2001 Lincoln LS with 135,000 miles. It runs great but the only problem i'm facing is that when i'm driving and i attempt to give it more juice (Getting up to speed) it has a struggle to get to the next gear. it doesn't usually shift hard, but just takes it a second or two to get in the next gear which sometimes makes the gear reach a high RPM before it makes it switch to the next gear. Another problem is sometimes i get a slight delay when i'm changing from like park to drive or whatever gear i choose. Its just seems to me that this all concludes to having low trans fluid.

Do you believe i'm correct? and do you think it would be alright if i got the information from another post on this site explaining how to add a quart or 2 of trans fluid by yourself instead of going to a dealer to pay tons of money just for them to ever look at it? (Yes i've called around)

Thanks to anybody with any helpful information.

LS.jpg

LS.jpg
 
Well for starters you have a sealed transmission, and it is anything but fun to work with. There are a few threads of DIY tranny flush/fill procedures but I personally would recommend the dealer simply because it's only $150sh and it's a hassle you don't have to suffer through. I believe I only payed $130 for a flush/fill and new filter.

Anyhow, to your original question... Will adding tranny fluid fix your issue? Possibly, but no guarantee. I was having a slight delay/harsh shift from 2nd to 3rd in my '03 LS8 and it went away after my flush/fill. But these cars are very well known for faulty transmission solenoids, and that is most likely your issue judging by your described symptoms.

They sell a Trans Go shift kit (solenoid assembly) in the few hundered dollar range and that would solve your problem, assuming the transmission hasn't endured too much abuse and driving with it's shifting issues.
 
Well for starters you have a sealed transmission, and it is anything but fun to work with. There are a few threads of DIY tranny flush/fill procedures but I personally would recommend the dealer simply because it's only $150sh and it's a hassle you don't have to suffer through. I believe I only payed $130 for a flush/fill and new filter

The transmission is not sealed.

I would first check your fluid level before adding any.
 
The transmission is not sealed.

I would first check your fluid level before adding any.

Thought I've read countless times that the LS uses a sealed transmission with no dip stick. Requiring you to check fluid level via the drain plug on the bottom. And fill via the bottom as well, or via the fill hole on the front face of trans after removing the bolt. I'm probably wrong though.
 
Thought I've read countless times that the LS uses a sealed transmission with no dip stick. Requiring you to check fluid level via the drain plug on the bottom. And fill via the bottom as well, or via the fill hole on the front face of trans after removing the bolt. I'm probably wrong though.

Yes it doesn't have a dipstick. It's not "sealed" though. The level can be checked, and it is serviceable.
 
Ahh, I suppose I used wrong terminology. Thanks

My 2000 has the exact same symptoms..fluid was low and dirty. Got filter changed and just did drain and fill...instead of a flush. With my mileage I didn't want to cause any problems with the transmission...so I just did the drain and fill..cost me about $150...but the symptoms you are mentioning went away immediately...haven't noticed it again..and I'm over 210,000 miles....good luck with your situation.
 
Still have a clunk when taking off into gear..but this is coming from the u-joint/carrier bearing...soon to be fixed. Easy to confuse the two.
 
A delay between P-R-D is classic solenoid pack failure.

The ONLY reason there is no dipstick is that there was no room for one when loading the drivetrain from the bottom on the assembly line. It is NOT sealed.
 
My 2000 has the exact same symptoms..fluid was low and dirty. Got filter changed and just did drain and fill...instead of a flush. With my mileage I didn't want to cause any problems with the transmission...so I just did the drain and fill..cost me about $150...but the symptoms you are mentioning went away immediately...haven't noticed it again..and I'm over 210,000 miles....good luck with your situation.

If a flush appears to cause a problem you had a problem to begin with. A flush won't cause a problem.
 
So, anyway...

Transmissions don't consume transmission fluid. If you aren't leaking transmission fluid, you aren't low on it.

Your symptoms are fairly classic of a bad solenoid assembly. You should have the fluid completely exchanged and the filter screen replaced or cleaned when the solenoid assembly is replaced. (Of course, you should have it diagnosed before doing this.)
 
dont throw parts at it.

the symptoms while driving could be caused by any number of things bc there are a number of easy maintenance areas that could cause the problem which you did not discuss at all... whats the condition of: coils? sparkplugs? fuelfilter? fuel octane? maf? throttle body? air filter? that little part by the throttle? any recent battery issues? did you actually check the tranny fluid?

when it comes to actual stick, are you firing it up and waiting for the rpms to settle (about 15 secs)? is the temp fluctuating? are you parking on a hill? anything that might affect the pressures?

it is possible that you may have a bad solenoid, but the people mentioning it have no proof that its the actual issue, they are just throwing parts. in my opinion you should throw cheap parts and do cheap maintenance before you blindly throw expensive parts like solenoids.
 
dont throw parts at it.

the symptoms while driving could be caused by any number of things bc there are a number of easy maintenance areas that could cause the problem which you did not discuss at all... whats the condition of: coils? sparkplugs? fuelfilter? fuel octane? maf? throttle body? air filter? that little part by the throttle? any recent battery issues? did you actually check the tranny fluid?

when it comes to actual stick, are you firing it up and waiting for the rpms to settle (about 15 secs)? is the temp fluctuating? are you parking on a hill? anything that might affect the pressures?

it is possible that you may have a bad solenoid, but the people mentioning it have no proof that its the actual issue, they are just throwing parts. in my opinion you should throw cheap parts and do cheap maintenance before you blindly throw expensive parts like solenoids.

I suppose I could agree with you somewhat here. However... No one was implying for him to throw parts at it. Simply gave him advisable info as to what would most commonly be the issue judging by the Lincoln LS track record.

But you're right, it could be a number of things. By his described symptoms my money's still on solenoid or bad/low tranny fluid (assuming there had been a leak, less likely).
 
Just wanted to throw in how to check the fluid but I'm not positive if it's the same on the 00-02 tranny. Maybe joegr could verify? All you need to do is get the car on a level surface, there should be and torx bolt in the middle of the drain bolt. Slowly remove this and if fluid starts to dribble out then you're good, quickly tighten bolt up again. If fluid does not come out you're low. I've checked it just by using a torx bit on a wrench a rag, every easy. Just to reiterate it should be a torx bolt in the middle of the main drain plug. Not the main drain plug itself. Hope this helps.
 
Just wanted to throw in how to check the fluid but I'm not positive if it's the same on the 00-02 tranny. Maybe joegr could verify? All you need to do is get the car on a level surface, there should be and torx bolt in the middle of the drain bolt. Slowly remove this and if fluid starts to dribble out then you're good, quickly tighten bolt up again. If fluid does not come out you're low. I've checked it just by using a torx bit on a wrench a rag, every easy. Just to reiterate it should be a torx bolt in the middle of the main drain plug. Not the main drain plug itself. Hope this helps.

There's a little more to the procedure. You need to get the transmission up to operating temperature, you need to cycle through all the gears (at least a few seconds in each gear) just before checking, and the engine needs to be running while checking.
 
Joe! The engine needs to be running while checking? Then I've done it wrong the whole time! My 05 Mustang tells how to check and it doesn't say engine running,just fluid warmed up.
Are we ALL sure about this? don-ohio :)^)
 
Yes, I'm 100% sure. From the service manual:

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x71025.htm~gen~ref.htm

Using the diagnostic tool, monitor the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) using PID: TFT.

Start the vehicle.

NOTE: Engine idle speed is approximately 650 rpm.
While proceeding with this procedure, run the engine until the transmission fluid temperature is between 27°C-49°C (80°F-120°F).

Move the range selector lever slowly through each gear, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage.

Place the range selector lever in the PARK position.

With the engine running, position the vehicle on a hoist and set it as close to level as possible. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

Hold the larger drain plug with a wrench and remove the small (center) fluid level indicating plug.

Install the special tool into the pan.

NOTE: Prior to filling the special tool with clean transmission fluid, make sure that the canister is clean.
Fill the special tool with clean automatic transmission fluid.

Hang the special tool under the vehicle. Position it upright and close to the transmission.

Connect the special tools.
Connect the open end of the fluid hose from the Fluid Transporter/Evacuator/Injector to the Fluid Level and Fill Plug Adapter at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.

Apply a maximum of 206.85 kPa (30 psi) to the open end of the vacuum/pressure hose from the special tool. Fluid will immediately start flowing out of the special tool into the transmission fluid pan.

Add one pint of transmission fluid into the fluid pan. Stop the process by releasing the air pressure and removing the air nozzle from the end of the hose.

Inspect the fluid level in the special tool. If the fluid drains back into the canister, the transmission is full. If no fluid drains back, more fluid will need to be added. Repeat Steps 12 and 13.

Once the transmission is full, place a hand vacuum pump on the open end of the vacuum/pressure hose of the special tool and apply vacuum to the system. This will pull out any extra fluid trapped in the system and direct it into the container.

Allow the fluid to drain. Make sure that the fluid temperature is between 27°C-49°C (80°F-120°F). When the fluid comes out as a thin stream or drip, the fluid is at the correct level.

Reinstall the small (center) fluid level indicating plug.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Check the operation of the transmission by moving the range selector lever slowly through each gear, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage.


Every automatic I've ever had or looked at required the engine to be running to check the level (dipstick or not). The purpose is to keep all the fluid up in the places that it is supposed to be.
 
... My 05 Mustang tells how to check and it doesn't say engine running,just fluid warmed up.
Are we ALL sure about this? don-ohio :)^)

I assume that your Mustang must have a manual transmission? Those are quite different from an automatic. For one thing, they don't have a torque converter that requires a pump to be running to keep it properly filled.
 
I assume that your Mustang must have a manual transmission? Those are quite different from an automatic. For one thing, they don't have a torque converter that requires a pump to be running to keep it properly filled.

No,Joe.....may I never be THAT stupid(LOL!).....my Mustang has almost the identical automatic tranny.....same check and fill set-up.
I actually possess a 3-set volume of Ford manuals for the car. I guess I'll have to look again.I'm not sayin'I don't believe you,mind.... I'm sayin'I'm from Missouri when it comes to my LS.Ha! Wow! Gotta MONSOON going on here in So_Ohio! No mowing today! don-ohio :)^)
 
Okay,Joe! According to my Ford manual at page 158 of section 307-01, you are absolutely CORRECTIMUNDO!! Shame on my Haynes manual(doesn't make it clear about engine needing to be idling) for the Mustang for slanting me the wrong way.
Now,does anyone know if I have underfilled or overfilled by simply warming up the car,placing it level on jackstands,and checking it with engine OFF? This SHOULD be interesting. THANKS AGAIN,JOE! don-ohio :)^)
 
Last edited:
Thanks,Joe,again for the help! I thought maybe I was underfilled,since now the car freewheels a second before taking off. She's been carefully driving it,underfilled I guess, but yesterday,Friday,she woke me up and told me it wouldn't steer.
Guess what? It's leaking steering fluid so bad it ran out in ten minutes time. So now it's parked for good and she's driving the Aerostar.Ha! don-ohio :)^)
 
Thanks,Joe,again for the help! I thought maybe I was underfilled,since now the car freewheels a second before taking off. She's been carefully driving it,underfilled I guess, but yesterday,Friday,she woke me up and told me it wouldn't steer.
Guess what? It's leaking steering fluid so bad it ran out in ten minutes time. So now it's parked for good and she's driving the Aerostar.Ha! don-ohio :)^)
Joe is dead on again! The tranny was underfilled by over 3 qts. I did the exact method of checking it today. SHIFTS GREAT and smooth!
I also looked into that power steering leak and fixed it.Turned out a tiny o-ring was split on one of the small tubes on the rack and pinion. I happened to have an old one and it had a good o-ring,so I swapped it out. NO LEAKS and my wife is happy again! LOL!
Thanks for settin'me straight on the fluid check,Joe! don-ohio :)^)
 
Just checked the Mustang's 5R55S? tranny fluid level and it was 2 qts. low.It had begun to `give me the slip'.HaHaHaaa! I'm really glad I found this out before I ruined my trannies.I wrote into the Haynes manual about the engaging the gears and then idling in Park before checking it. don-ohio :)^)
 

Members online

Back
Top