G-RELL's Full PLasti Dip & Others

how has plasti dip held up on the car?
how much <roughly> did it cost to dip the whole car?
how well did that rim with curb rash touch up?
 
depends how well you apply it , should last a couple of years with no issues , maybe a touch up here and there , cost can vary depending if you are doing it yourself or not and how you are doing it and also the color you choose , G Rell spent about 500 on his I believe buying the kit from Dipyourcar.com , if you have a spray gun all you you need is the gallons ,if you go to a shop to have it done may run up to 800 to a grand to do it, some craiglisters have offered deals for 500 with a year to two year warranty , as for curb rash it hides it pretty well
 
i think im going to stick to just doing the center caps on my stocker 16" chromes bc they look like hell anyways... does anyone have experience with a silver/chrome-looking plasti dip that almost appears to be chrome or close enough to it (similar to how the plastic center caps looked chrome when they were new)? i dont want to paint them, i want to dip them to try it out and see how it holds up in my personal environment. TIA.
 
silver with glossifier would be the best shot at that but not even that will come close to a chrome look
 
this was today's mailbox... more tomorrow through Saturday!

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I feel like some of those envelopes totally have pearl baggies in them.
 
does it need to be redipped?

im waiting to see a stress test. if anyone can link to one that would be awesome. this could end up being much more expensive than paint if it isnt durable/doesnt touch up well.
 
silver with glossifier would be the best shot at that but not even that will come close to a chrome look

yea thats what i figured.. prolly cheaper to just buy the replacement caps. or leave em be and
let em look like sh_t
 
i think im going to stick to just doing the center caps on my stocker 16" chromes bc they look like hell anyways... does anyone have experience with a silver/chrome-looking plasti dip that almost appears to be chrome or close enough to it (similar to how the plastic center caps looked chrome when they were new)? i dont want to paint them, i want to dip them to try it out and see how it holds up in my personal environment. TIA.

Familiar with this? You'll see a short 6 minute video of the actual prep/applcation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvtRYZ5EasA

Here's their site to order the product should you be interested: http://customcreationpaints.co.uk
 
cool, never seen that chrome stuff before.. kinda $$ tho
 
Push button start

The LS in now Keyless!

We (hite and I) will be doing a full write-up for this soon, but thought I'd go ahead and share the end results. Toggle for power, push to start!

This is not a RFID kit. this is just an ignition mod. the factory locks remain functional. I also have several safeties in place (obviously cant do into detail on that) that prevent anyone from jumping in and going... all in all pretty easy, fun and cheap. Here's a few cell phone grabs i took this morning. The toggle is recessed, but the hole in the trim is a bit large, may redo at some point.

20140331_084106_zps92daf4e7.jpg

20140331_084129_zpsd6f81fcf.jpg

20140331_084223_zpse3b58ca5.jpg

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:Beer

Thanks to Hite for helping me tackle the wiring.. his was a little cleaner then mine. (obsessed with perfection... I saw him start over twice on a ground splice because the second layer of heat srink wasn't perfect!)
 
Easy access Glove box

.... :) when I need to get to WHATEVER's :shifty: in my glove box.... quick (hidden release button)

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I'll clean it up a bit... (button is in awesome place :p!!!)
 
This mod is too easy. I can probly do the next one (mine) in 2 hrs now that the R&D is done. Mine will be RFID.
 
arent you losing some functionality by doing this? like i know when you program a keyfob you have to flick the key a few times... pretty sure theres other diagnostic things and programming that requires functionality of a key. seems like thats a no go now... ?
 
"Wood" grain is a pet peeve of mine...cannot stand it. Add in the fact that my LS is black inside and out, it just bugs the hell out of me...almost as much as the steering wheel not being centered. grrr Wrapping the "wood" grain is getting high priority.

What brand of vinyl trim tape did you use? I don't know that it'll get high priority but it looks good.

Edit: Oh, I just noticed you covered the chrome strip. duh My brain is still in sleep mode. I don't know if I want to try that. I'm not big on blacking out the car...I think I need all the oem chrome to be chrome. To me all black tends to flatten out the car...contours get lost I think.

Of course if I dip the car......;)
 
The LS in now Keyless!

We (hite and I) will be doing a full write-up for this soon, but thought I'd go ahead and share the end results. Toggle for power, push to start!

This is not a RFID kit. this is just an ignition mod. the factory locks remain functional. I also have several safeties in place (obviously cant do into detail on that) that prevent anyone from jumping in and going... all in all pretty easy, fun and cheap. Here's a few cell phone grabs i took this morning. The toggle is recessed, but the hole in the trim is a bit large, may redo at some point.

20140331_084106_zps92daf4e7.jpg

20140331_084129_zpsd6f81fcf.jpg

20140331_084223_zpse3b58ca5.jpg

20140331_084234_zps7fd71138.jpg


:Beer

Thanks to Hite for helping me tackle the wiring.. his was a little cleaner then mine. (obsessed with perfection... I saw him start over twice on a ground splice because the second layer of heat srink wasn't perfect!)

I can absolutely not wait to get this done to mine..lol. I'm very impressed by this..I hope the install is easy for a DIY like me..Kansas is too far too drive..
 
arent you losing some functionality by doing this? like i know when you program a keyfob you have to flick the key a few times... pretty sure theres other diagnostic things and programming that requires functionality of a key. seems like thats a no go now... ?

The only way i'd loose that is if the key HAD to be turned to the first acc setting and not the second. The key chip is still read by the car (thats all i can say) .......IF there was a scenario where i needed both acc1 ignition, acc2 ignition functions (for whatever reason).. thats a super easy to do with the wiring where its at.

Yeah my first thought was the seat/steering wheel settings.

My seats and wheel (easy entry functions) work when i turn the switch on...

Remember the key cylinder is just a glorified switch.

Like i said ( i think) this may not be for everyone, but i dig it. It was cheap and fun.

it can easily be reversed too.. (just rewire the ignition)
 
I can absolutely not wait to get this done to mine..lol. I'm very impressed by this..I hope the install is easy for a DIY like me..Kansas is too far too drive..

Thanks... I'll get a write up going soon, I'll get more detailed pics when we do something similar with Hites :Beer
 

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