Finally installed some Angel eyes! But I'm having some problems!

The shop that I took it to yesterday is the original shop that did the install...yesterday they wouldn't even touch it practically...just told me I need to invest in a new set of lights...so today I took it to a different shop and paid $40 diagnostic fee..they come back out and tell me that they put a "test light" to the halos...and they come on fine..they tell me there is a "wiring issue"..but they want 6 hours of labor to redo the wiring.. 6 hours times $70 is 420..the new lights costs $479...I think they went to the back and found a simple problem and want to use my ignorance as a way to get 6 hours of no work and all pay...smh. The $40 bucks was for 30 minutes of diagnostic "time"...if you found the problem in less than 30 minutes it doesn't take 6 hours to put some headlights in...I am going to figure out the wiring of these units..with you guys help...Im not paying $400 when the original install price was only $200..lmao. If there is a smart member near me..thats needs the cash...:)
 
the corrosion that I mentioned yesterday has obviously not affected the current..because they indicated that the boxes were getting power..The only other thing I can think of is the harness with the fuse on it..I hate to talk and not show pictures..it is a wiring harness with a fuse..maybe this is the culprit...if a test light (which I have no clue what that is..lmao.) can make them come on..what electrically could be holding the process up..? They are tied in to the parking lights..and parks come on..so not a blown parks fuse..it has to be isolated in the wiring only for the halos..correct..or no..? I shoulda been an electrician in the Army instead of field artillery..omg.
 
the corrosion that I mentioned yesterday has obviously not affected the current..because they indicated that the boxes were getting power..The only other thing I can think of is the harness with the fuse on it..I hate to talk and not show pictures..it is a wiring harness with a fuse..maybe this is the culprit...if a test light (which I have no clue what that is..lmao.) can make them come on..what electrically could be holding the process up..? They are tied in to the parking lights..and parks come on..so not a blown parks fuse..it has to be isolated in the wiring only for the halos..correct..or no..? I shoulda been an electrician in the Army instead of field artillery..omg.

The info that you are relaying is not clear, or is not adding up in a clear way. There are several ways to interpret it, but most of them conflict in one way or another with some of your statements.
Here's one way to interpret it:

The boxes are receiving power, but the LEDs are not on. They can bypass the boxes and light up (probably at low brightness) the LEDs with a test light that injects a small amount of current.
This would not indicate that the boxes were good. This would indicate that they are bad. This doesn't make sense in that they wouldn't need hours to redo the wiring, they would just need to replace the boxes.


Another way to interpret it:
The boxes are not receiving power. They can power up the boxes from a current source (test light) and the LEDs light up. They haven't diagnosed where the wiring fault is that is preventing the boxes from getting power. They need hours to find and fix that problem.

Or, I suppose it could be some combination, like the boxes are bad and the boxes are not getting power.
 
Wow..your explanations are clear as hell. lol. either way..one answer for me is..if I (1) knew exactly what the boxes are called and who manufactures them..or repairs them. The sellers are motivated to sell the item..not repair them...so replacement parts are not going to be available from them...I have googled the boxes and find them on many halo's that are sold separately from the housing lens..maybe if I buy a set of these halos..clip the boxes off..and reinstall on my existing set up..especially if I can't find out who or where these boxes are sold individually.
 
The boxes are LED drivers. They are set up specifically for the LED halos that you have, so it's not like you could use just any LED driver. You would need to know the typical voltage of your LED halos and the drive current, or know how many of what LED part as well as how they are configured.
 
Paid $30.00 for two new driver packs and the relay wiring harness...will receive it tomorrow and see what happens...(fingers crossed)..
 
Wiring harness and two relay packs came in two days ago. ($40)..an hour of labor and lights are back in action. Car seems naked without the halos. Thanks for the helpful info Joegr.
 

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