Strange problem

Djumps

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Hey guys, so i just recently bought a 2001 Lincoln ls (177xxxkms). The airbag light has constantly been on since i bought it so it sounds like i do need a new clock spring. When i took the lincoln out for a drive this morning i experienced some new problems:

-ABS light on, abs not working at all.
-Traction control stuck OFF, no matter how many times i pressed the button it wasn't coming back on.
-Seat heaters unable to turn on
-The usual airbag light
-Parking brake light was on (parking break was not engaged)

I drove for about 40 minutes and when i came back home i parked it in the garage (normally don't) and after leaving it in the garage for 10 minutes i went to go check on it. The usual air bag light was on and the ABS light was on, no other lights. So i tested out the ABS and its working perfectly fine. I plugged in my code reader and it read the code C1234.
This morning was -30c and it started pretty good for the cold, living in canada im hoping this isn't going to be occurring every cold morning. I dont know if any one has had the same problem but if any one might know how to fix it that'd be great.
-thanks
 
weird that the seats also wouldn't work, as the rest could all be related. like a speed sensor...
 
Checking the battery is a good idea.
C1234 = bad wheel speed input from right front wheel. That's enough to turn the ABS light on and the ABS off.
You do know that the "parking brake light" is also (and more importantly) a low brake fluid level warning light? I'd check the brake fluid level.
I assume that you have a V6, because the V8 has a message center to tell you when it's the parking brake, and when it's low brake fluid level.
Seat heaters frequently fail on these cars as they age. The heater grid wires under the seat covers break open.
 
I'm going to have to go grab a multi tool to check the battery, its good to know that C1234 could be causing the ABS light. As for the low brake fluid i had no idea, i just went a checked the brake fluid level and it seems to be fine. And yes i forgot to mention i have the v6 "sport package". The only light on now is the ABS and i got the seat heater buttons to start working again. Thank you for all the info!
 
Update: driving to get the multi tool the ABS light did go off (-10c) so the only light on was the original airbag light. When attempting to check the battery the multi tool started smoking (this is what i get for buying a 10$ multi tool). Now i have a fried multi tool that i need to go return.
 
The airbag light has constantly been on since i bought it so it sounds like i do need a new clock spring.

before you tackle the clock spring, I would check the yellow connector under the drivers seat. The way the "auto seat" works unless its turned off, the seat will move down and back allowing easier access in and out of the car. over time this weakens and eventually breaks the wires in the connector under the drivers seat. I soldered mine once and it broke again after that, so i eventually got rid of the connector and just hardwired the wires together, I also disabled the auto seat so it doesnt always move when i get in and out of the car.
hope your light is as easy to fix as mine was.

-zrxinch

edit: if you want to check to see if this is a problem on your car, look forward under the seat from the back seat area and gently tug on the wires one at a time, if either one is broken it will usually just pull out of the connector.

post #18 has pics
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...8-Yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!&highlight=airbag
 
Update: driving to get the multi tool the ABS light did go off (-10c) so the only light on was the original airbag light. When attempting to check the battery the multi tool started smoking (this is what i get for buying a 10$ multi tool). Now i have a fried multi tool that i need to go return.

You're not going to be able to do much checking of the battery using a multi-meter. You can check the voltage when it is sitting (should be around 12.4 to 12.6), and you can check the voltage while cranking the engine (should not go below 9 volts). Not a battery test, but you can check the alternator by measuring battery voltage while the engine is running (should be about 14 volts). Never use the resistance range or the current range when pressing the probes to the battery. Doing either will likely result in the meter being fried. (The battery can supply hundreds of amps, but most meters can only handle 10 or 20.)
The only real way to check the battery, is to take it and have it load tested. A real load test takes a while, so a lot of places will claim to load test it when they really don't.

What LFC (Lamp Fault Code) is you SRS flashing out?
 
If the battery is over 5 years old you should consider replacing it. strange things happen when the battery starts getting weak.
 
I checked out the wires under the seat and they seem alright, for the auto seat im 6'3 so i have the seat as far back as it will go. Another reason i believe it is the clockspring is the buttons are a little wacky. Most often i cant turn down the stereo volume, only up (when i press down it will just increase). Some other strange ones include changing the audio output (AM/FM/FM2) when i try to turn it up/down or change the station. I went out and got some new rims for it today (previous owner had an accident and back right rim was bent) I'm probably going to get the clockspring situation looked at this week along with a new batter and hopefully some new speakers (almost all of the speakers are currently blown) I really appreciate you help and sorry for the late response.
 

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