Blend Door Issues??

Epwillis

Epwillis

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
547
Reaction score
35
Location
Dearborn Heights, Michigan
Drove the mark today for the first time in a while and had great heat on my way to school and when I left school, so great that not thinking I turned it to cold to cool off and kept driving home. Got home and then had to leave again and let the car warm up and got driving down the road and bumped the temperature up on the climate control and had nothing but ice cold air out the vents.....even at 90 degrees. Now when I did switch it to cold(stupid Decision) there were no noises of something breaking or anything. While I was at school I topped off my coolant(after the car cooled off) because it was about an inch below the cold fill line, so I filled it to the cold fill line. Now when the car runs the coolant level is almost at the black plastic of the coolant reservoir(assuming that's normal), I wouldn't think that if the coolant was over full it would cause no heat but maybe someone knows something that I don't. The car is not overheating and running around the middle of the A to the bottom of the M. My question is from reading the information above does anyone think they can point me in the right direction? I'm leaning towards blend door actuator because when i change the temperature up or down I can not hear the door moving, although could it be a thermostat and still not overheat? Any Help would Be greatly Appreciated.
 
If it was a thermostat your temp gauge would show it running below normal if it was stuck open, high if closed. I'm not familiar with gen1 bda issues but I do recall gear strippage in the past.


Have you taken the xover cap off to verify that you have coolant in it? A gentlemen on the other board and myself within the last week have overheated while only checking the reseviour for proper level, all the while we were low @ the xover. It's worth a shot.

I'm leaning towards something with the bda since it started when you were switching it up. Put the speed on low, put your ear up to the bda location and switch temps to see if you can hear anything.
 
Last edited:
Lownslowlsc said:
If it was a thermostat you're temp gauge would show it running below normal if it was stuck open, high if closed. I'm not familiar with gen1 bda issue but I do recall gear strippage in the past.


Have you taken the xover cap off to verify that you have coolant in it? A gentlemen on the other board and myself within the last week have overheated while only checking the reseviour for proper level, all the while we were low @ the xover. It's worth a shot.

I'm leaning towards something with the bda since it started when you were switching it up. Put the speed on low, put your ear up to the bda location and switch temps to see if you can hear anything.
Click to expand...

I did not check for coolant at the cross over, however the hoses coming off of it were both warm and felt like they had pressure in them definitely something to check.

I didn't have the time or day light to take a good look and listen for noises while changing speeds although when I can I will.

Would doing the EATC self test store a code for a actuator error or malfunction?
 
Yes, do the self test. In my experience the 1st gens only strip the gears as lownslow said. Usually you can hear the actuator clicking when the gears strip. But it's possible the actuator just quit working.
 
chargerxr said:
Yes, do the self test. In my experience the 1st gens only strip the gears as lownslow said. Usually you can hear the actuator clicking when the gears strip. But it's possible the actuator just quit working.
Click to expand...

If the actuator turns out to be bad, it can be accessed through the glove box correct?
 
They don't sell the actuator anymore for the Gen I.
Read somewhere that the actuator for 97 uses the same plastic gear. Suppose to able to switch the gear out.
 
I'm guessing that gear can be found on allot of fords from that era. Do the easy self test first then run through the motions of hot/cold while looking through the glove box. IIRC you should be able to see the arm move but the dash will have to come back in order to replace it.

It's not that bad of a job and you get to sit in some comfy seats while doing it, just verify first with all the suggestions above before diving in.

THIS might give you a little more info, it's for a gen II but still a great write up.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
I'm guessing that gear can be found on allot of fords from that era. Do the easy self test first then run through the motions of hot/cold while looking through the glove box. IIRC you should be able to see the arm move but the dash will have to come back in order to replace it.

It's not that bad of a job and you get to sit in some comfy seats while doing it, just verify first with all the suggestions above before diving in.

THIS might give you a little more info, it's for a gen II but still a great write up.
Click to expand...

Does the car really have to be 40-90 degrees for the self test?

If so I'll have to take it back to school Tuesday and do the test then.
 
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Unit Self-Test

The EATC self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 16-26°C (60-80°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed. Record all DTCs displayed.

If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.

If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: EATC System Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.

The self-test can be initiated at any time with any resulting DTCs displayed. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds.

To exit self-test and retain DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).

To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

The self-test should be deactivated before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

EATC SYSTEM ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES


024 Fault in blend door calibration during self test
025 Intermittent fault in blend door calibration
030 Automatic temperature control sensor shorted
031 Automatic temperature control sensor open
040 Ambient sensor shorted
041 Ambient sensor open
042 Ambient sensor intermittent short
043 Ambient sensor intermittent open
050 Sunload sensor shorted
052 Sunload sensor intermittent short
115 Intermittent engine coolant temperature signal
125 Intermittent vehicle speed signal
Click to expand...

Yeah, looks like it.
 
I was telling Evan on another page that mine clicks when it's around 35 to 40 out but after the car warms up and the heat is on, it will stop clicking and not do it anymore. I haven't had a problem with heat loss though. Only once when I replaced the battery but after some cycling of the EATC, it started working again and hasn't gave me another problem.If it's 40 or above in the garage or outside, it will never even start clicking. It's been doing this for 4 years but yes, they do sell a Motorcraft for Gen 1 at Rockauto for $28 but didn't know the dash had to be pulled back to get to it. In Evan's case, I would but for a few minutes of clicking, I'll deal with it. It sounds like it's down behind the stereo and glove box.
Motorcraft Actuator.jpg

Motorcraft Actuator.jpg
 
Update Time, Ran the self test when i got home today and got this:
20140214_182033_zpsblw8bd2e.jpg



Heard the actuator working through the whole test..........ran the test again and no codes. Started the car and let it warm up for 20min and went out and to my surprise I had heat;)

No idea what happened, but glad to have heat back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 339 (members: 0, guests: 339)
Back
Top