04 LS rear window regulator

lking

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my rear passengers side window was going up and down very slowly making strange noises so i opened the door to see what the problem is the wire that goes around the green wheel was lose i tired to connect it back but it was too difficult because of the metal thats on top part of the green wheel

anyone know how to remove the regulator from the window it would be much easier once removed


i guess there was frozen water around the window and when i opened it it broke


IMG_0436.jpg

IMG_0436.jpg
 
there is an opening in the green wheel if you align it with the metal part the wire will fit through

i put it back together and heard the same crackling plastic noises window does go up and down slowly

there's a about a 3 seconde pause (motor spinning) when switching from up/down

i think one of the wires is no longer properly connected to the motor

i need to know how to take off the regulator white plastic piece off the window for closer inspection anyone??
 
To get the glass out, pry out the center pin in your picture above.

The wire (it's one wire that loops all the way back to the regulator spool) is still connected at both ends. The problem is that at least one loop of the wire came unspooled. (The wire wraps around the spool several times.) Unfortunately, the wire often gets chewed up and does other damage when this happens. You can spend some time and grief trying to get it correctly respooled, but you may find that you still need to replace the regulator.

Some instructions:
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x1b014.htm~gen~ref.htm
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x1b015.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
To get the glass out, pry out the center pin in your picture above.

The wire (it's one wire that loops all the way back to the regulator spool) is still connected at both ends. The problem is that at least one loop of the wire came unspooled. (The wire wraps around the spool several times.) Unfortunately, the wire often gets chewed up and does other damage when this happens. You can spend some time and grief trying to get it correctly respooled, but you may find that you still need to replace the regulator.

Some instructions:
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x1b014.htm~gen~ref.htm
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x1b015.htm~gen~ref.htm



removed regulator from glass opened it everything looked alright except for the wire was really messed bent twisted no way i can respool it i'll have to get a new reg
 
13 orders from RockAuto and counting..
 
"Hello,

Thank you for the email. The part you are looking at is an aftermarket part made by Motorcraft which is closely associated with Lincoln/Ford. The part will fit and function just like the original but it will not be considered a genuine Lincoln part.

Thank you,

Todd
RockAuto Customer Service"
 
Not sure what the difference would be. It's listed as a Motorcraft part, so just go with the cheaper option?
 
Not sure what the difference would be. It's listed as a Motorcraft part, so just go with the cheaper option?

already ordered

did their delivery charge you costumes clearance at your door? or just the one time payment you made through website?
 
already ordered

did their delivery charge you costumes clearance at your door? or just the one time payment you made through website?

Is that where the delivery driver wears a discounted costume??
 
already ordered

did their delivery charge you costumes clearance at your door? or just the one time payment you made through website?

No extra fees when ordering from RockAuto.
 
... two options "wholesaler Close out Private Label Pkg " and ...

also known as "white box" parts, stay away from those, cheapest alternatives but you'll be replacing it sooner than expected.

I went through that bullcrap with some wheel bearings for my wife's car from a local supplier ... never again!
best to pay the extra and get some good quality well known brand with some warranty, replace it once and be done with it.

I don't enjoy replacing wheel bearings on wifey's car every 3-4 months. Put some RockAuto Timken's bearings on last time and haven't had to replace since.

'White box' parts are garbage knock-off china crap!
 
also known as "white box" parts, stay away from those, cheapest alternatives but you'll be replacing it sooner than expected.

I went through that bullcrap with some wheel bearings for my wife's car from a local supplier ... never again!
best to pay the extra and get some good quality well known brand with some warranty, replace it once and be done with it.

I don't enjoy replacing wheel bearings on wifey's car every 3-4 months. Put some RockAuto Timken's bearings on last time and haven't had to replace since.

'White box' parts are garbage knock-off china crap!

can it really be cheaper then the original "genuine" that failed its rear window which doesn't get used much so i;ll take my chances

the original part wasn't used much (rear window) and still failed...ford junk!

thanks anyway
 
can it really be cheaper then the original "genuine" that failed its rear window which doesn't get used much so i...

It's not a question of use and wear. It didn't wear out. It broke. It lasted ten years. It should have gone longer, but ten years isn't unreasonable either. The junk ones only go about one year. (generic experience, not LS specific)
 

^ They'll figure it out themselves!

Trouble is, most 'insist' a frozen window 'must' go down,
even if it means forcing it a couple of times. Eventually something breaks prematurely.

Welcome anyway
 

^ They'll figure it out themselves!

Trouble is, most 'insist' a frozen window 'must' go down,
even if it means forcing it a couple of times. Eventually something breaks prematurely.

Welcome anyway

i don't know if it was frozen i was just guessing because this happened on a really cold day probably not frozen because i do park in a garage anyway window regulator failing is not uncommon on the LS is it?
 
... anyway window regulator failing is not uncommon on the LS is it?

It depends on your definition of uncommon.
My own experience is that I have two LSes. 2006 at about 112K+ miles and 2004 at about 150K+ miles. So far, I've had one regulator failure (on the 04). I don't consider that too bad.

I had a 1994 Grand Marquis, and I had to replace all the window regulators on it (two of them more than once) after it was three or four years old. That I consider to be very unreasonable.
 
My passenger side front regulator broke... btw not trying to hijack hear... just a simple question. Will a 02 ls same side fit my 05? I can get one with motor for real cheap and want to jump on it before its gone if it does? Please tell me yes! That the 02 front passenger regulator will fit my 05!
 
My passenger side front regulator broke... btw not trying to hijack hear... just a simple question. Will a 02 ls same side fit my 05? I can get one with motor for real cheap and want to jump on it before its gone if it does? Please tell me yes! That the 02 front passenger regulator will fit my 05!

No, you can't mix regulators between generations, AFAIK. For certain, you can't use a gen I front window motor in a gen II. (Gen I = normal, simple motor, Gen II = "smart" motor.)
 
i received my window regulator today looks like its built solid from rockauto fast cheap delivery unlike Tasca parts charged me $60.00 for solenoid delivery then UPS charged me another $57.00 upon delivery rockauto $20.00 for shipping UPS delivered it to my door this morning two days difference between the two deliveries
 
The window regulators break because the rubber window seals bond to the glass over time. Then the motor pulls too hard and the white plastic parts break.

Cycling the windows now and again can help. You might notice that when using a window that does not get much use it's very common to get a loud "pop" when the window first starts to move. This it what slowly cracks the white plastic pieces. I have always found multiple bits of plastic in the bottom of the door where they come apart piece by piece.

Also remember if you only replace the regulator (because the motor almost never goes out) that you must clock the motor to the regulator or the window won't go up and down correctly. After fighting this I now get the entire regular/motor assembly as it's a pretty quick repair if the whole thing is just swapped out.
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The window regulators break because the rubber window seals bond to the glass over time. Then the motor pulls too hard and the white plastic parts break.

Cycling the windows now and again can help. You might notice that when using a window that does not get much use it's very common to get a loud "pop" when the window first starts to move. This it what slowly cracks the white plastic pieces. I have always found multiple bits of plastic in the bottom of the door where they come apart piece by piece.

Also remember if you only replace the regulator (because the motor almost never goes out) that you must clock the motor to the regulator or the window won't go up and down correctly. After fighting this I now get the entire regular/motor assembly as it's a pretty quick repair if the whole thing is just swapped out.
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The plastic piece was replaced with metal in later revisions. The failures were almost exclusively confied to high heat regions; mainly the southern tier. Lack of use exasperated the problem. The associated TSB called for replacement of both regulators when one failed.
 

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