Serious Allignment question.

Myco

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On my mark VIII (new to me 3rd on I've owned... 97 ) I replaced the upper/lower control arms and sway bar end links.

This was the condition of the lower control arms. To note: I did not use a pickel bar to get them off.. This was the exact condition when I knocked them off 20140111_153504.jpg

20140111_153456.jpg

After replacing everything I put the tires back on and let the car down and the front tires are very pigion toed. Since I have AAA I had the car towed to a shop who wanted to charge me 180$ + the 80$ alignment to align the car :mad: so I had the car towed back home. :frown: I figure I'll get the alignment close enough to specs so I can drive it but I'm wondering how I should align the outer tie rod's. I'm going to pop them out and if they are in bad shape I'll replace them but I'm guessing that I'll need to adjust them to get the toe right. Also, I'm guessing the strut rods have something to do with this.

In any case I'm looking to eyeball the alignment and was wondering if anyone has any advice.

Thanks

20140111_153504.jpg


20140111_153456.jpg
 
I'm curious to hear what the other $180 was for as well. In any case, I don't know what tips you're looking for in regards to "eye-balling" the alignment. I'd suggest having the car aligned at a competent shop (not just a "toe and go" alignment).

If you're just looking to get the toe close enough to be able to drive to another shop for an alignment, then here's a quick writeup that will walk you through it. Scroll down to "Measuring Toe with the String Method".

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/hrdp_0411_wheel_alignment_guide/viewall.html
 
I'm curious to hear what the other $180 was for as well. In any case, I don't know what tips you're looking for in regards to "eye-balling" the alignment. I'd suggest having the car aligned at a competent shop (not just a "toe and go" alignment).

If you're just looking to get the toe close enough to be able to drive to another shop for an alignment, then here's a quick writeup that will walk you through it. Scroll down to "Measuring Toe with the String Method".

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/hrdp_0411_wheel_alignment_guide/viewall.html

Thanks!

The 180$ was for "further adjustments". I asked to talk to the lead mechanic but for some reason he never came to the phone after leaving me on hold for 20 minutes. I'm assuming they thought since I had the car towed there I wouldn't have it towed away and thought they would jack up the price a bit. (AAA is great! )

I will have it properly aligned but I'm done having it towed anywhere. To get the car on a towtruck I put the car on wheel dollies and pushed it so the tow truck could get it up. I asked the guy at the shop how he got it into the shop and he said he drove it. I nearly lost it. I asked him if he would drive his own car with new suspension if it looked like that and further asked him why he didn't use dollies he said he "didn't have any". Fu**ing inconsiderate idiot. I'm posting on BBB about that shop.

(BY the way.. just to tell you how frustrating this has been. I had the car towed on sunday around 1pm. The shop called and said their mechanic didn't know what to do so they would need to wait on their lead mechanic who came in on tuesday. I had another car so I said ok, just keep it and keep me informed. So on tuesday the lead mechanic after not coming to the phone, I called back an hour later and he was "at a meeting". When I went there later he was still "at a meeting". )
 
If you didn't move the the toe adjustment(tie rods) don't move it. You need to adjust the lower control arm at the sub frame back in. That is the camber adjustment. Sounds like you have the camber so far off, it's causing it to be toed in. Jack up the car and adjust it back in until it looks straight ahead. Do it on both sides. Should get you close enough to drive to the alignment shop, but you do need to get it aligned as soon as possible. The reason they were going to charge more is because they basically have to do 2 alignments. They have to get it fairly close before you can do a caster sweep, but $180 is way too much.
 
If you didn't move the the toe adjustment(tie rods) don't move it. You need to adjust the lower control arm at the sub frame back in. That is the camber adjustment. Sounds like you have the camber so far off, it's causing it to be toed in. Jack up the car and adjust it back in until it looks straight ahead. Do it on both sides. Should get you close enough to drive to the alignment shop, but you do need to get it aligned as soon as possible. The reason they were going to charge more is because they basically have to do 2 alignments. They have to get it fairly close before you can do a caster sweep, but $180 is way too much.

That is exactly what I did! You are right on!
OP....You need to adjust the camber and drive it to the alignment shop!
 
Ok. Good advice. I'm doing it tomorrow morning. Thanks for the input.
 

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