Your Biggest Bug About Your LS

04SCTLS said:
...If you push the center buttons on the hot cold seat controls together they start up with the car and the seats warm up to the temperature setting.
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Yes, I have left my seats on auto for years, just like the climate control.
 
I've always read that letting a car idle that long when cold is not good.

Start the car, let it run to circulate the oil, and then drive at a "normal" speed till it warms up.

But, this procedure ain't gonna give you the heat you want.

I wear a pair of gloves on really cold days, and once the car is warm, the gloves come off.
 
I wish my climate control could adjust lower. My last car would go down to 55F, which was perfect for keeping my hands from freezing to the wheel but not making me sweat inside my winter clothes.

I also wish that the nav screen was brighter. Even on max brightness and with tinted windows, it's sometimes hard to see on a sunny day.
 
jerrym3 said:
I've always read that letting a car idle that long when cold is not good.

Start the car, let it run to circulate the oil, and then drive at a "normal" speed till it warms up.

But, this procedure ain't gonna give you the heat you want.

I wear a pair of gloves on really cold days, and once the car is warm, the gloves come off.
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I haven't had any problems in the 6 1/2 years I've owned the car.
I'm only driving 15 minutes to get to work
and that's about how long it takes to warm up.
My Vette actually warms up faster starting at about 3-5 minutes but I don't drive it in the winter
and have just put it away till March after our first snowfall here.
 
04SCTLS said:
I haven't had any problems in the 6 1/2 years I've owned the car.
I'm only driving 15 minutes to get to work
and that's about how long it takes to warm up.
My Vette actually warms up faster starting at about 3-5 minutes but I don't drive it in the winter
and have just put it away till March after our first snowfall here.
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Maybe the replacement of carbs by fuel injection has made this cold starting "rule of thumb" no longer valid.

When I worked, and had to get going early, I used to let my cars run for a while to get the defroster working and warm the windshield.

Now, I just stay indoors.

I still try to use my retro TBird and 64 Galaxie in the winter when there's no snow, ice, or salt on the roads. If we get a real bed spell, I'll get them out of the garage, and just let them run outside for a while varying the RPMs. (I have some room in my driveway to give them a little shot of actually moving.)

(Unfortunately, the Galaxie was an "outdoor/used every day in the winter and summer" car from 1964 till 1980, so there's no way this is a perfect car underneath. New Jersey weather can be tough.)
 
Nowadays you can just start and go, so long as you don't get into it hard until it's warmed up. I don't let it sit at all unless it's close to zero degrees out, and then I only let it idle for a couple of minutes. I don't know about Ford but Chevy fuel injected vehicles have a 4000RPM governor until the engine hits about 130 degrees. Usually my vehicles are warmed up by the time I've gone 3 miles. Where I live, it's about 2 miles to the main road, so I idle along at 35-40MPH until the main road, then once on the main road it's warm enough to be pumping heat by the time I hit the next exit. Love those electric fans, faster interior heat is just one more benefit of them.
 
For me I always let my car idle in the mornings. I never let it idle for over 5 minutes. but I always let it do its "warm up" cycle and let the rpms drop before anything.
 
I let mine idle until the RPM's drop under 1000, which usually only takes about 15 seconds. The first shift out of Park seems very harsh if I don't wait. The coolant temperature meter on the dash usually reaches normal after a couple of minutes of normal driving, but I drive gently until I've been driving for at least 15 mintues or so. Even when the water temperature indicates normal, it can take a long time for the oil to be fully warmed up.

Interesting factoid: Most BMW M models have an indicator on the tachometer that slowly increases the redline as the car warms up.
 
I have the same first harsh shift issue if I go from P to R too quickly after a cold start.

But, I don't have it when I go from P to D.

Anyway, I, too, wait 15 or so seconds before driving at moderate rpm's.
 
I hate when the cell phone or something slides out off the passenger seat, or your put something on the passenger floor with nobody else in the car. You gotta stop the car, or get off the gas and lift out of the drivers seat, and bruise your ribs on the arm rest ( 1st Gen), to get something off the passenger floor in the car while driving! Which also won't let you get something in the Diverside back seat, again without bruising you ribs, and kidneys on the miniature armrest compartment.

I also hate the damm fuel computer no longer show you the amount left after you go below 50 miles to empty. You gotta hit reset the then fuel, then 30 sec later it goes back to low fuel. And the Plastic button panel that breaks and shoves back into the console. Also the beep scares the crap out of me for a nanna sec, cus I think the cars Overheating again!

Also hate the flat Glove Box, that everything falls out of when you open it, or you got perfectly arrange the Manuel and everything you put in it cause it so short in Depth.

Oh and oh yea, the Dumb ass designed "Sport Shifter ( Gen 1 V8 Sport) that wont start in 1st gear the way you might want it to.
 
jgscott said:
... then 30 sec later it goes back to low fuel. ...
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No, every ten minutes it goes back to "low fuel." (ten minutes from the last low fuel warning, not ten minutes from when you last hit reset)
 
jgscott said:
Oh and oh yea, the Dumb ass designed "Sport Shifter ( Gen 1 V8 Sport) that wont start in 1st gear the way you might want it to.
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Thank the gummint for that. Starting in 1st would have triggered the gas-guzzler tax. The same test wasn't required for the 2nd gens.
 
I never expected that any LS would be eligible for the gas guzzler tax.

One more bug is the auto wipers. Not the fact that it has them, but the fact that all of the intermittent settings try to work in automatic mode. All they do is adjust the sensitivity of the auto wipers, but none of them really get it right. I wouldn't mind the auto wipers (maybe with a separate sensitivity dial) if I still had my manual intermittent wipers.

One more thing: You have to remove the headlights and taillights to change the bulbs. Replaceable wear parts should be easy to replace, especially something that you may need to change by the side of the road in the middle of the night.
 
StarPower said:
...One more thing: You have to remove the headlights and taillights to change the bulbs. Replaceable wear parts should be easy to replace, especially something that you may need to change by the side of the road in the middle of the night.
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This is common to all of the cars that I have. For all I know, most cars may be this way now.
 
JG, my plastic row/panel buttons also broke off.

I removed the dash panel section and used a Superglue adhesive to re-attach the proken piece.

So far, so good, but, I've gotten into the habit of VERY GENTLY depressing those buttons.

Jerry
 
jerrym3 said:
JG, my plastic row/panel buttons also broke off.

I removed the dash panel section and used a Superglue adhesive to re-attach the proken piece.

So far, so good, but, I've gotten into the habit of VERY GENTLY depressing those buttons.

Jerry
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How do you remove the pael without breaking anything else? Feels like Im gonna snap something if I try to pull it out, don't want to glue anymore than I have to (already did the traction control button in the center console, seems they all break at one point or another.)
 
nf9648 said:
How do you remove the pael without breaking anything else? Feels like Im gonna snap something if I try to pull it out, don't want to glue anymore than I have to (already did the traction control button in the center console, seems they all break at one point or another.)
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It just pulls straight out. You may have to pry it a little with a tool to get it started.
 
Nateff91 said:
Whats the adjustment? Mine has been doing that quite a lot lately and its aggravating....
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You have to take the interior door trim off. Inside the door there is a rod that goes to the door latch. There's a plastic piece that clamps the rod to the lever of the door latch. Release that clamp* and the rod should move some, to it's natural position. Now reapply the clamp.

*: Easier said than done.
 
Use a very thin screwdriver or thin paint scraper and pry at the bottom of the piece from one side.

Going back a few years, but the price for a replacement bracket for the buttons wasn't ridiculous.
 
I've always been annoyed by the way the transmission does a 4-1 downshift on coastdown/almost-closed throttle. Too much holding 4th and waiting for kickdowns when accelerating from a slow speed. Gimme a 4-3 coastdown downshift in auto mode please. Thank god for SST!
 
fatboy501 said:
I will admit that I miss the relatively cheap availability of power in my grand prix. Swap a few parts from a factory supercharged model, tune, profit. Oh well... low and slow fits Lincolns well anyway. I know better than to identify my 1st Gen ls as fast. It honestly feels like a jip paying premium v8 gas prices for less than 260hp. Hilarious really. Oh... and no storage space inside! No damned cubbies lol.
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Why did you buy,to have something to bitch about ?
 
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