2001 losing fuel pressure

txhellraiser

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What's up guys. I'm new to the forum so take it easy on me. I've got an 01 LS that's loosing fuel pressure after setting for a few minutes. I have to cycle the key 3 times to fire it up. Stock pump was replaced thinking it had a bad check valve. New pump does the exact same thing. I've attached a picture. Can someone tell me what this is and give me ideas of where to start. I really don't think my injectors are leaking off that quick and I have no CEL.

question.jpg
 
BTW, I just pulled this pic off the internet instead of walking outside to take a pic. It's the same motor but mine has the valve cover on :D
 
My old SVT Contour did this, it turned out to be leaky fuel injectors. I ran a bottle of injector cleaner with each tank 3 or 4 times and the problem went away.
 
... New pump does the exact same thing. I've attached a picture. Can someone tell me what this is and give me ideas of where to start. I really don't think my injectors are leaking off that quick and I have no CEL.

The thing circled in the picture is an impulse damper. Basically, it smooths out fuel pressure pulses (due to injector opening and closing) to reduce noise. It's not any part of your issue.
If you have hard starting and the smell of raw gasoline, then one or more of your injectors is leaking. Otherwise, it may be the jet pump (driver's side of the tank) that is allowing pressure to leak down.
 
No smell of raw fuel. I hooked up a pressure gauge and watched it leak down. I could put a check valve inline but would rather fix it right.

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No smell of raw fuel. I hooked up a pressure gauge and watched it leak down. I could put a check valve inline but would rather fix it right.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

The jet pump should be all that is left for it to be then.
 
I just stopped at a wrecking yard and picked up the assembly. I'll find out in a few hrs. Picked up a clock spring also while i was there. Only thing is the wheel was disconnected from the rack and pinion so im not sure if its centered up or not. Any tricks on that?

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... im not sure if its centered up or not. Any tricks on that?...

If the clockspring has rotated out of center, follow these steps to center the clockspring.

Hold the clockspring outer housing stationary.

CAUTION: Overturning will destroy the clockspring. The internal ribbon wire acts as the stop and can be broken from its internal connection.
While turning the rotor counterclockwise, carefully feel for the ribbon wire to run out of length and feel for a slight resistance. Stop turning at this point.

Turn the clockspring clockwise approximately 2-1/2 turns. This is the center point of the clockspring.

Do not allow the rotor to turn from this position.
 
Awesome. I knew there would be a certain number of turns to center it up. I'm heading home now and will get to putting parts on.

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Clock spring went in perfect and it was right at 2 3/4 turn but works perfect. Replaced the whole assembly under drivers back seat and still have the same "have to prime" the system issues. I might just throw an inline check valve in it and call it done.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
The thing circled in the picture is an impulse damper. Basically, it smooths out fuel pressure pulses (due to injector opening and closing) to reduce noise. It's not any part of your issue.
If you have hard starting and the smell of raw gasoline, then one or more of your injectors is leaking. Otherwise, it may be the jet pump (driver's side of the tank) that is allowing pressure to leak down.

I've had similar problems and I think I was misinformed by my mechanic about a lot of Lincolns and Fords not holding fuel pressure after the vehicle is turned off (of course he just said this off the top of his head without confirming since I was planning on doing the work myself).

I told him my fuel pressure would drop pretty fast and go to 0 psi after I turned the car off and he said its normal on some fords etc.

So are the Gen Is supposed to hold fuel rail pressure or drop? And if this is a problem would it be the fuel jet and would that be the reason why my fuel pressure creeps up slowly when the ignition is turned on?

My symptoms are a hard cold start that results in stumbling for a few seconds, or sometimes stalling. If I try to start it again it fires right up. Also I'll get an "exhaust" or "gas" smell after cold starts
 
...My symptoms are a hard cold start that results in stumbling for a few seconds, or sometimes stalling. If I try to start it again it fires right up. Also I'll get an "exhaust" or "gas" smell after cold starts

You have one or more leaking fuel injectors. The stalling and the smell is from the flooding caused by the leaking injector(s).
 
You have one or more leaking fuel injectors. The stalling and the smell is from the flooding caused by the leaking injector(s).

Could injectors cause the rail pressure to drop real fast after the car is turned off, or is that normal?

Could that also translate into a lean condition which I pulled the other day?
 
Could injectors cause the rail pressure to drop also, or is that normal?

Could that also translate into a lean condition which I pulled the other day?

Yes, and no probably not.
 
"Replaced the whole assembly under drivers back seat and still have the same "have to prime" the system issues. I might just throw an inline check valve in it and call it done. "

I'll probably be looking into leaky injectors as joegr said, isn't too much have them cleaned and "rebuilt" aka new orings. I'm not too particular on having things put on a car that weren't meant to be there besides intakes and exhaust systems.

If your check valve doesn't work then at least you'll have it narrowed down to injectors. Good luck
 
Guess you're right about about the injector part. Just wonder if the "new" pump wasnt bad from the start

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Guess you're right about about the injector part. Just wonder if the "new" pump wasnt bad from the start

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Maybe, because your symptoms don't really sound like a leaky injector. Did you replace the whole assembly, or just the pump itself?
 
I just replaced the pump by itself. I do have a walbro 255 laying around. Does anyone know if it will work on the lincoln. I'll cut and splice the wire more concerned about flow and psi

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
I just replaced the pump by itself. I do have a walbro 255 laying around. Does anyone know if it will work on the lincoln. I'll cut and splice the wire more concerned about flow and psi

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Is it the jet pump or the fuel pump that has the check valve? I'm assuming the fuel pump since that's what is directly feeding the engine but you never know with this car.

I'm assuming the jet pump just "transfers" fuel to the other tank where the fuel pump is located?
 
I'll update this. Guess i've got leaking injectors but they have to be leaking into the cylinders as i have no obvious leaks or smell of fuel. I replaced the fuel pump with a walbro that i've had on the shelf and still the same issue. I did manage to replace the front sway bar bushings today though. Not too bad of a job. Alignment tomorrow and i think i'll have a good work car.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Guess i've got leaking injectors but they have to be leaking into the cylinders as i have no obvious leaks or smell of fuel.

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When we say leaky injectors we do not mean they are leaking fuel to the outside of the engine. We mean the injector is not fully closing and some fuel is always getting into the cylinder, even when it shouldn't.
 
Ok. This is driving me crazy so ive started digging into the fuel system. Someone has tampered with it before me. What is this in the picture? Looks like it some type of vaccum canister and its tied to the fuel system.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

uploadfromtaptalk1383173128418.jpg
 
Ok. This is driving me crazy so ive started digging into the fuel system. Someone has tampered with it before me. What is this in the picture? Looks like it some type of vaccum canister and its tied to the fuel system.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

The shiny thing?
It's an impulse damper. It came from the factory that way. Why do you say someone tampered with it?
 
Thats the VMV ( EVAP Vapour Management Valve) for emission control.
 
Thats the VMV ( EVAP Vapour Management Valve) for emission control.

Yes, the non-shiny thing to the right of the shiny thing is the purge valve for the evaporative emissions.
 

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