I have e3 on my 2000 v8 for about 8k and no complaints good idle good throttle response
cant really comment on mileage because of my driving style
What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
cant really comment on mileage because of my driving style
lincolnelite
Well-Known LVC Member
I thought the stock plugs are Motorcraft. NGK are mostly for Japanese imports.
Better go with OEM. The previous owner of my car used Bosch thinking that the engine was European.
hite337
Hite Performance
I used Bosch plugs and gas mileage and throttle response went down. Put in Motorcraft fine tip platinum OEM and love them
purevilpleasure
Dedicated LVC Member
Huh?
NGK makes plugs for nearly every application...they make some of the best plugs any where....they are the only plug my 79 Merc Outboard will even allow it to start.
In my book NGK>Motorcraft
Half of the stock plugs I pulled from my wife's '06 were NGKs and 6 of the 8 in mine were. This is from the factory.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
NGKs are also the preferred plug for Chevy V8s. They are way better than the factory AC Delcos.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
NGKs were in from the factory on both of my LSes.
I got a free K&N FIPK because I drove up to their Development Center a year or so ago to show them that the T-Bird system did, in fact, fit the LS as it did the Bird. As I already had one installed, the freebie has been sitting, unopened in the garage the entire time. Well.... As my wife's LS isn't dur for a smog check until next year I decided to install it. Now both our LSes have the system installed.
What did I do to MY LS? Well.... I bought it. 
Then cleaned it, new tie rods, ordered a clock spring and door handle, got the sunroof closed but the plastic runners are broke so no working roof. Also got to figure out why the subs on the rear deck are not working.
2000 LS V8 in dark metallic blue. 202k and just a few thousand on the new motor. Runs and drives great. I really like the car...... I know, send me the hate. LOL
Then cleaned it, new tie rods, ordered a clock spring and door handle, got the sunroof closed but the plastic runners are broke so no working roof. Also got to figure out why the subs on the rear deck are not working.2000 LS V8 in dark metallic blue. 202k and just a few thousand on the new motor. Runs and drives great. I really like the car...... I know, send me the hate. LOL
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Holy crap I've been battling this same issue for some time now. Are you telling me its actually the caliper thats the problem? My car brakes just fine as well just that embarrassing creaking noise when I apply the brakes as i come to a stop (and put it in gear). Whats weird is that the noise goes away temporarily every time I bleed the brakes. I even paid a shop to do it (doubting my skills) and although the noise went away for longer than when I bled them, it still came back.
My reservoir keeps leaking fluid tho no matter how low I run the fluid level. Tried new cap as well. Am I missing something?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
If you mean minor seepage around the cap, that seems to be normal.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes and really? Never did it before, until I switched to SS lines and flushed the system. I guess I'll ignore that for now and focus on the caliper.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Caliper noise, eh? Something that bugs me about my 2003 LS V8 is that when I come to a stop, right before the car stops it goes taptaptaptap. Sounds like 4 taps, like datdatdatdat, takes about 1 second from stop to finish, low pitched tone, low volume, like taking a ball peen hammer and tapping on a heavy iron pipe full of water. Any ideas if this might be caliper related? As a side note I have to replace the rear tie rod ends still yet, was going to do it this week but the time just disappeared on me.
Well I guess in addition to my other repairs I will also have to replace the HVAC. Noticed no heat on the driver side so I ran codes and it had a plethora. 1342, 1257, 1253, 1261, 1967, 2429, 1947, 1676, 5041. Yay.
Doing the off & defroster then auto gives me these codes. I then do the off & floor then auto and it does its normal testing but shows no error codes.
Doing the off & defroster then auto gives me these codes. I then do the off & floor then auto and it does its normal testing but shows no error codes.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Those are all stored codes, talking about something that happened in the past. It's possible that all of those triggered when the battery voltage was too low for it to know what it was doing. I would erase the stored codes and see if any come back. You're not getting any failures during the live self-test. It still may just be the DCCV (DCCV does not always set a code).
My failures never threw a code.......
Well the JY run was a suedo bust. Got a DCCV but there were no fan pump valves to be had anywhere so I just paid $150 at the dealer. At least he got a fresh arm rest although there were no Alpine sub amps. So it was win/fail/lose/win/lose.
Changed my water pump and belt today, funny thing about it is that I changed the exact same pump in January. Its barely been a year and I didn't start driving the car daily until June.
Thank God for warranty
Thank God for warranty
I changed my front pads today. Kicked my butt! I had to do it out in the sun. 3. 5 hrs with all the breaks and a gallon of water. Pads were pretty thin but no rotor damage. They took about 10 miles to bed in and now they are super quiet and smooth. I got the Brake Best Brake Select Ceramic with the split friction surface for $49.99 at O'Reilly.
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Add: I had to go ahead and change the pads when I did. I was actually expecting to find some rotor damage because I had been getting the brake fade and UH-1 Huey sound when doing heavy braking at the end of long off ramps. I guess that was just heat expansion as there was absolutely no rotor damage at all. That's not saying they couldn't use a some lathe work but, with my plans of doing the Jag upgrade it wouldn't be worth it.
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Add: I had to go ahead and change the pads when I did. I was actually expecting to find some rotor damage because I had been getting the brake fade and UH-1 Huey sound when doing heavy braking at the end of long off ramps. I guess that was just heat expansion as there was absolutely no rotor damage at all. That's not saying they couldn't use a some lathe work but, with my plans of doing the Jag upgrade it wouldn't be worth it.
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Those are good pads. I install a dozen or so per week and after two years I have never had a customer complaint and when they come back for other repairs I inpect them and am always pleased.
Wagner makes all Brake Best Select stuff now including hardware and calipers so its all great stuff.
Wagner makes all Brake Best Select stuff now including hardware and calipers so its all great stuff.
That's good to know. I chose those because they have the split surface which I've had good luck with reducing heat checks on my past cars that had rear drums.