What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

New box for the R's. I've had these for 7 years and no matter what sub setup I get I'm never satisfied and always revert back to these. I got rid of the old box, it was a hacked up pos demo box i've had laying around since forever.

With that said I neatly installed these, first time inverted. Flipped over the oem rubber mounting gasket so that I could use its seperate cover to cover the screws. I then used a thin weather stripping on the underside so that I could run the wires into the box w/o making extra holes while still getting an air tight seal. It's all caulked and soldered up. I'm very pleased with how it turned out.

I had to get a slanted box as the butt end of these are to heavy causing it to tip in the reg one.

soo, why inverted?
 
changing the alternator in a autozone parking lot today due to flickering interior lights when a door is open or when the inside lights are switched on they are flickering like their dimming and brightening really fast i dont know whats causing it
 
changing the alternator in a autozone parking lot today due to flickering interior lights when a door is open or when the inside lights are switched on they are flickering like their dimming and brightening really fast i dont kno whats causing it

Bad voltage regulator in the alternator.
 
Bad voltage regulator in the alternator.[/QUOT

now autozone wont take the old one because it passes the test but the lights still flicker

lol, they done me the same way. You check the voltage yourself, running and off. I just went through all of this 2 weeks ago and it was the alternator "OVER CHARGING" at 16 volts. They didn't notice it because it was charging. When I swapped it out, the guy tested it inside and said it wasn't charging at all.... Anyway, it's all back to normal now and it's showing 14.2-14.4 with nothing on and 14.1 with the air running. 13.7-13-9 with air and defogger on. 13.5-13.8 with the car off. They will swear up and down that you have a short in your car somewhere. I knew I didn't and proved it with the new alternator. With the car not running, see if anything flashes.
 
lol, they done me the same way. You check the voltage yourself, running and off. I just went through all of this 2 weeks ago and it was the alternator "OVER CHARGING" at 16 volts. They didn't notice it because it was charging. When I swapped it out, the guy tested it inside and said it wasn't charging at all.... Anyway, it's all back to normal now and it's showing 14.2-14.4 with nothing on and 14.1 with the air running. 13.7-13-9 with air and defogger on. 13.5-13.8 with the car off. They will swear up and down that you have a short in your car somewhere. I knew I didn't and proved it with the new alternator. With the car not running, see if anything flashes.

nothing flashes when the car is off
 
met a Mustang guy and bought a steering wheel (which will fit, the buttons are wired differnetly however)
;
also got to check out his power plant..shiney Vortec SC
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My AC stopped working this week. Tried wiggling the black and orange wire going into the blower motor, but it still stayed off. Grrr
 
After seeing quickblue302's thread last week I busted out a few spare trim pieces I had and went to town on them with a few types of rubbing compound which I found actually scratches it more than it polishes, in the end I ended up using mothers aluminum polish..takes all of the hazyness off the trim and all of the fine scratches..this was all done by hand, but if I had a good buffing pad that I could attach to a drill I'm confident I could probably make them perfect..still looks much better than before though.

A spare piece I have, looked horrible before

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Did all of the trim around the windows on my car too.

Before

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After

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Is there no air coming out of the registers or its just blowing warm air? I'm pretty sure blower motors are easy and cheap to replace.

No air coming out at all. The system "clicks on" when you try to turn it on but no air whatsoever. I'm hoping it's just the blower motor or a little electrical easy fix behind the glovebox. I have a multimeter, how would I test the system? I really think it is electrical/blower motor.
 
No air coming out at all. The system "clicks on" when you try to turn it on but no air whatsoever. I'm hoping it's just the blower motor or a little electrical easy fix behind the glovebox. I have a multimeter, how would I test the system? I really think it is electrical/blower motor.

I think I wired tied my wire as suggested and it came back to life and been working ever since.

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No air coming out at all. The system "clicks on" when you try to turn it on but no air whatsoever. I'm hoping it's just the blower motor or a little electrical easy fix behind the glovebox. I have a multimeter, how would I test the system? I really think it is electrical/blower motor.

Sounds like a bad motor. In Spree's picture, the orange should be positive wire and black should be ground. Put the red lead on the orange wire connector blade and black lead on ground or the black wire blade and turn it on, it should read 12 volts or lso. That means the motor is getting power so motor must be bad. But I'd do what Spree did, always do cheap and free stuff first.
 
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I was ready to replace the blower motor also but was directed to this repair annnndddd she blows again!
 

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