Rough running ls

Right on. I know motor craft is usually best but will house brand oreillys or autozone work for the tps? I will try and test first. Well I guess at least now the car has all new cops, plugs and new gaskets.
 
opinion on brand of sensor if i buy a new tps? house brand at oreillys ok??
 
Cams-76 said:
opinion on brand of sensor if i buy a new tps? house brand at oreillys ok??
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Probably. I haven't tried it, so I can't say with certainty. I do generally prefer O'Reilly over the other chains.
 
joegr said:
Probably. I haven't tried it, so I can't say with certainty. I do generally prefer O'Reilly over the other chains.
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They may not have the most knowledgeable folks, but they don't do the whole price tier thing.
 
I'm testing the tips and in two of the tests it says to put the multi meter probe directly to battery. Anywhere else in the engine bay I can do this? Multi meter cord isn't ten ft long
 
Did tests one and three and both check ok. I can't do test two, it wants to test the ground by using the positive batt terminal any ideas?
 
I tested it seems to all test ok. I bought on from Oreillys but wanted to ask about the idle air control. That is what i called the sollenoid that has a tube going to the intake. It has oil pooled up in it. Thinking this could be part of the problem? Can I take it off and clean it up? Thinking the oil might have been overfilled?
 
Cams-76 said:
I tested it seems to all test ok. I bought on from Oreillys but wanted to ask about the idle air control. That is what i called the sollenoid that has a tube going to the intake. It has oil pooled up in it. Thinking this could be part of the problem? Can I take it off and clean it up? Thinking the oil might have been overfilled?
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I've lost track of what year your LS is. Anyway, assuming that it is gen I, then cleaning or replacing the IAC is not a bad bet. However, it won't solve your rich mixture problem or your TPS code. I have a different strategy on problem solving than you. I go after the clearly identified issues before running after other possible guesses. If the TPS code is still there, then you have one of the following:
a. Bad TPS.
b. Bad wiring.
c. Bad PCM.
d. Mechanically bad throttle.

A scan tool reading out the live TPS values would really help you here.

As for the oil, overfilling is not a likely cause. It would have to be very badly overfilled, such that other damage would have been done. Using too thick of an oil might have caused this, but a more likely cause is that you may have excessive blow-by due to worn rings. (The cause of the worn rings would be another discussion.) Again, if you're not having to add oil, it's not a concern.
 
I tested the tps and it seems to test ok. I'm not sure how smooth the multi meter should read when opening and closing the throttle but it seemed to go up in numbers and back down like it should. I bought another tps I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to put it on?
 
I don't have a scan tool and they probably
By cost more than the $25 I spent on the tps. Not trying to jump around I just saw an obvious thing going on and thought it might have something to do with the rough idle.
 
Put the new tps in and still the same. Running rough with a knock sound that sounds like its coming from the valley of the engine. Any way to check codes if I clear them without using a obd2 reader? Thinking if I clear them and check them again maybe the tps code will be gone. Won't solve the problem but will help narrow it down?
 
Cams-76 said:
Put the new tps in and still the same. Running rough with a knock sound that sounds like its coming from the valley of the engine. Any way to check codes if I clear them without using a obd2 reader? Thinking if I clear them and check them again maybe the tps code will be gone. Won't solve the problem but will help narrow it down?
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do you have the ability to post videos to you tube? if people can hear it, it may help them to help you!

when someone says to me (no matter the engine) "i hear a knock coming from my engine", my history tells me that you have major issues...

it sounds like you could have skipped/broken a tooth and advanced the timing chain, and/or your lower tensioners have let go and your hearing the "slop" of the chain...if this is the case, don't keep running the engine, if that chain goes out you could end up with valve damage...and that's no good
 
Well I drove it to the parts store and had them run for codes they came up with 0171 only. But it does have a knock that has gotten worse since I started working on it. I will work on putting a YouTube video up.
 
P0171 is System Too Lean (Bank 1) this could be the MAF or PCV..or a vacuum leak.

it DEFINITELY sounds like you are doing this car no favors by driving it...that knock could be a bad sign.
 
I am not driving it daily. Only a few times over the last few weeks since I started tinkering on it. Only gone maybe 10 miles in it.
 
im sure more experienced members will chime in, but to me; that sounds like a timing chain is flopping around. could also explain the rough idle (out of time)


pull the valve cover and inspect the top tensioner on passenger side, if it shows signs of distress..then the bottoms will likely be bad as well.


i seen a write-up on these forums for this job, the parts can be expensive..
 
definitely stop driving/starting it, if that chain breaks your in for a really big job, or a new engine...
 
Well damn this is a bummer. Had the car maybe three months. Sound like about a 35 hour job and about $900 in parts?
 
I'd pull the covers and inspect before you assume. Skipped tooth could very well be the cause of the rough running. I think Pektel had the same problem a little while ago.
 
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