2002 LS will not start, battery installed backwards, smoke.

benz_020

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Hope to hell i just made a good choice, signed off my title to a running car for a non running one...
only 35,000 miles. (adult owned, garage kept)
2002 LS will not start, battery installed backwards.
A guy (NOT ME< wanted to stress that) installed it backwards, i was told it smoked,, and that is all i know.
Others told me the "computer" is dead. plus possibly whatever electronics in the alternator.

I have searched online, and on this forum, battery backwards battery reversed... all i get is a million useless posts anywhere battery is ever mentioned.

Help?
what exactly needs to be replaced?


and if anyone has the part for sale...

and by the looks of it... with this car i will be a frequent member here soon... lol
 
What smoked?

What was done post smoking?

I assume they did try putting the battery in correctly, what happened?

What is your ability to troubleshoot the electrical ckt on this car?

Do you know how to use a multimeter?

Do you have the factory service manual?

My suggestion is get the factory manual (eBay @ $50), get a good digital multimeter ( @ $40),

Isolate all the electrical ckts. (pull all fuses checking for blown ones), then check the resistance between the positive and negative battery cables (battery disconnected) to troubleshoot any shorts. Once you get the wiring to the point you can hook up the battery without smoking start adding fuses and checking individual functions.

The key is troubleshoot it logically, don't just shotgun parts at it...
 
What smoked? The guy who owned it and died, his son, not the brightest bulb. He did it. He said a wire... what one where who knows. under the hood was mentioned. might have mistaken smoke from a joint the way it sounds.

What was done post smoking?
I assume they did try putting the battery in correctly, what happened?
as i was told.. tried to start and nothing.. if nothing means it just will not crank or no lights come on at all on the dash, idk.
I am a bit premature on this thread, i did not get to hook up a battery myself, but due to lack of time i am doing it anyway. busy with court, moving and my truck blowing out trans fluid as i am driving atm.



What is your ability to troubleshoot the electrical ckt on this car?
Do you know how to use a multimeter?
my way of answering,
I can do anything from the ground up, vw bug to mack truck, except for the trans. I cant believe how many "master" mechanics do not even have true understanding of how a fuel injection system even works.
carb-fi im good i just lack one thing and that is automotive computer systems, so many things seem ass backwards to me.

can i use a meter, yes, have one , yes.

Do you have the factory service manual? no



Isolate all the electrical ckts. (pull all fuses checking for blown ones), then check the resistance between the positive and negative battery cables (battery disconnected) to troubleshoot any shorts. Once you get the wiring to the point you can hook up the battery without smoking start adding fuses and checking individual functions.

one thing i did not mention , the one child of the owner took it to a "shop" the guy there also told them the "computer" was bad.
he then proceeded to tell her it would be $4000 to fix it and she should sell it to him.
 
...the one child of the owner took it to a "shop" the guy there also told them the "computer" was bad.
he then proceeded to tell her it would be $4000 to fix it and he should sell it to him.

There are several "computers" on the LS. There's a good chance that many or all of them have been blown, as well as the alternator. You need at least three or four of them (PCM, REM, cluster, and maybe FEM) to work just to be able to start it.
 
I'd start by putting a new battery in it, with the correct polarity, and checking all the fuses. See what fuses blow just by replacing them or putting the battery in it. From there it's just process of elimination. Definitely need the EVTM manual for sure on this one.

Not sure what kind of car you signed away for this, but you definitely got a pretty big project in front of you. Hope you are handy with a multi-meter and got some trouble-shooting skills. Almost as important is going to be access to a junkyard with some similar LS'. You are almost assuredly going to need something. Smoke doesn't just blow out from under the car for the fun of it.
 
Not sure what kind of car you signed away for this, but you definitely got a pretty big project in front of you. Hope you are handy with a multi-meter and got some trouble-shooting skills.

04 blazer 2dr 2wd 84kmi.

I hate computers but, not bad.

now looks like ill have to wait till thursday to work on it. wont be back in town till then.
 
honestly, this could be a big one, first check to makes sure every fuse is good, then start testing (or pay some one to test it for you)
there is a very good chance that you can buy another 1st gen LS for less than that one will cost you to fix. as joe mentioned, every computer in the car could be toast, you could have wires that are burnt up, ect.

the funny thing about smoke is that once you let it out, you can almost never get it back in!
 
If I was in your place , I wouldn't do any thing BUT make a physical inspection of all the wiring especially at the alternator , all the fuse panels, in the trunk , right front kick panel { behind the trim panel } , the wiring and fuses at the right front corner , [Radiator support & right side skirt] , there may be a fuesable link , but I am not sure where it is , if something smoked there has to be some visible signs or use your nose for a burnt electrical smell , if you don't find any thing , put an ohm meter on the 2 battery terminals and see what you read , 0 resistance might indicate a short , keep in mind anything open trunk , doors , etc will create low resistance ,if that checks out good and you feel secure about it , put a battery in it , but before you connect the last terminal , put a test light or a head lamp bulb in the circuit and observe the brightness , very bright would mean a strong drain on the battery , start disconnecting and check the bulb , Hope this helps you Frank T
 

so your the @$% who took my name.
my real name, Francis Tomcsik


ended up pushing stuff to tomorrow and getting a achance to work on it.
found all fuses and BS wrong exc.. **** batt.
all lights and panels working, engine light on i think... forgot.

smoke coming from front right corner, bottom of engine. when battery is connected. otherwise seems good and turns over but dose not fire.
 
so if the alt electronics are fried will that cause it to not fire?

No, just the alternator being dead would not likely keep the engine from starting. However, many of the several electronic modules if fried would prevent the engine from running.
 
No, just the alternator being dead would not likely keep the engine from starting. However, many of the several electronic modules if fried would prevent the engine from running.

ok, then considering everything else seems to be working. where do i start? besides the alt. ill get that off in a day or so.
 
"signed off my title to a running car for a non running one......his son, not the brightest bulb"

yeah..and your the brightest crayon in the box
 
"signed off my title to a running car for a non running one......his son, not the brightest bulb"

LOL was hoping I read that wrong. Unless you thought this would be an easy fix. Still a chance I would not have taken.
 
take it to dealer and have them diagnose. too much sh*t to check.
should have done that before you acquired it but hey hindsight is always 20.20
get the dealers opinion and come back here with their report before deciding what to do. some simple fixes might save you some coin with the assistance of the forum
 
Say I replace every computer and the alt. alt at new price and eBay comp price. I still make a couple hundred and traded a 84k blazer for a 31k Lincoln... I must be a neon crayon.
 
Say I replace every computer and the alt. alt at new price and eBay comp price. I still make a couple hundred and traded a 84k blazer for a 31k Lincoln... I must be a neon crayon.

Even if you got the car for free, it is unlikely to be worth the cost of replacing and programming every electronic module on the car. Even less so if any of the wiring has to be replaced. That said, probably not all of the modules are blown. The fun part is going to be figuring out which ones are damaged. It gets really fun if some are functional but have high power drains or other once in a while mystery problems.

I do wish you luck with this, and it may turn out well for you. It's not a chance I would have taken, and I'm and EE.
 
It seems pretty clear that I wasted my time to try and help some one that asked for help , that Blazer might have been a running piece of iron , but this person may have bitten off more than he can chew ! Frank T
 
Say I replace every computer and the alt. alt at new price and eBay comp price. I must be a neon crayon.


Shotgunning it is going to get very expensive. That's crayon eater mentality. :eek:

Spend some time and fix the charging system, then move on from there. At least get it presentable before trying to scan for codes.
 
I'd imagine a direct short in the alternator would keep it from delivering enough juice/voltage to power the car. Can always try disconnecting the alternator and seeing if it will crank/fire.

Something to try. Maybe get an idea of what's broken before you go sinking any more money into it.
 
The LS tends to bite a lot of new owners who do not know the vehicle well; its complexity and its parts expense.

Some of the electronic modules may be diode protected from both reverse voltage and spikes. But the only way of knowing is to put a full scanner in there and see what the faults are.

I’m also wondering if this vehicle even cranked over with the battery reversed. I can see a reverse voltage would turn the starter in the reverse direction and although the solenoid would have thrown the starter drive gear into the flywheel, most starters have an overrunning clutch that would not allow the starter to move the motor.
 

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