New brakes and rotors are squealing!!!!

kcam67

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Guys-

I just installed new crossed drill/slotted rotors and pads I bought of the e-Bay package. I don't know if you guys remembered but a few months ago, someone started a thread about these cross drilled/slotted rotors and pads they bought from e-Bay and most members have also bought and installed these on their LS. I love the looks and performance of these rotors and pads but they are squealing like a beeeeotch when I applied my brakes. Anyone here have the same issues and what is causing it? In case you guys was wondering about the thread, I've pasted a linky here:

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=82954&highlight=brake+motive
 
bed-in procedure

uh-oh, I've been driving on it for about two weeks now. Does bed-in procedure still works or am I screwed?
 
uh-oh, I've been driving on it for about two weeks now. Does bed-in procedure still works or am I screwed?

Still works. The other possibility is just squeaky brakes for whatever reason. Some pads are quiet, some not so much.
 
That doesn't sound too optimistic

Still works. The other possibility is just squeaky brakes for whatever reason. Some pads are quiet, some not so much.

I'll try the bed-in procedure then but if that doesn't work, I can't be driving around with squeaky brakes. It's embarrassing for a dude to be rollin' in an LS with squeaky brakes. The ladies are gonna frown and the dude's not gonna get any play :D

This is the procedure from the Stop-tech brake web-site, is this the way to go:

The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.

The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
 
Remember, when doing the bed-in procedure try not to fall below 5-10mph or so. You are basically going to be doing a series of fast slow-downs (not stops) in order to get the pads and rotor to form to each other.

Try to find somewhere with a few miles of empty road so you can do it without pissing anyone off.
 
Remember, when doing the bed-in procedure try not to fall below 5-10mph or so. You are basically going to be doing a series of fast slow-downs (not stops) in order to get the pads and rotor to form to each other.

Try to find somewhere with a few miles of empty road so you can do it without pissing anyone off.

The Mall :D
 
I believe i have the same kit as you (brakemotive?), only fronts tho.

I have recently been experiencing squealing as well. I'd say i have about 2.5k on them. I did the anti squeal stuff on the pads during the installation and followed the bed in procedure as well, to the best of my ability on nearby roads. So i guess i can't say i followed it to the letter, but pretty damm close. Don't think this would be the issue, or would it? Everything was fine/quiet for the above mentioned miles

Anyway my mechanic seems to think its because of the cheap pads, so idk what ill do yet: Try some akebonos, or just live with the noise/embarassment until i can do the STR big brake upgrade.

Decisions, decisions.
 
I believe that article you quoted also has a section on what to do if you did glaze the pads or not perform a proper bed in.

Old foggy memory.... As I recall you can deglaze the pads by using sandpaper to break the glaze. VERY IMPORTANT NOT to use Alumina based paper(My examples are dark grey). Use Garnet based sand paper(looks reddish). I think something like 240 to 300 grit is called for. Use a flat sanding block or sander to just get rid of the surface glaze. Try not to grind so much off that you have made the pad lopsided.


Good Luck,

Jim Henderson
 
is it all of them or can you isolate the side/front or rear. if it's just one; pull them and see if you have any shiny spots on the clips- add some break quiet (I use the CRC red stuff) on there or any other place where there is contact from the caliper to the pads.
 
My Brakemotive set started squeeking a few weeks ago with 5k on them. I think I am going to sand the rotors and get new pads soon. I am eventually going to do the Jag big brake upgrade but probly mot till next summer.
 
Might be a stupid statement but I had my EBC's squeal at first because I had them on the wrong sides! Check that out too.
 
As I recall you can deglaze the pads by using sandpaper to break the glaze.

I've used a wire-wheel on a bench grinder and just kind of swept the surface of the pad back and forth before to deglaze. But yeah, you still don't want to make the pad uneven. Wire Wheel just made quicker work of it then sandpaper. Sanding block probably better if you don't have a steady hand and such.

Still need to take a sanding block to the rotor too de-glaze it. 300 grit seems a little rough to me. I used to use 1000 grit. Not really trying to re-surface the rotor, just remove the build-up. Just spin the rotor with one hand while applying slight pressure with the other hand. When you've broken through the glaze it should look more dull/grey then when you started. The glazed parts will be shinier and look more silver.
 
De-glazing

I think a couple of you guys are right on the pads being glazed already. I think most of the squealing are coming from the front but which side, I don't know. I'll have to listen closely to be able to isolate it. When de-glazing, should I sand just the pads or also the rotors? One thing I do noticed though, in the morning, when I drive to work, I don't hear any squealing at all. What gives? Is it because of the cooler temperature in the morning and the afternoon is warm that causes to squeal? I'll do the sandpaper thing if that's what it takes. It's a P.I.T.A. to take it apart again. Thanks fellas for all your feedbacks and help.
 
If you bought the package deal, the one fo like 220 or 240 or somethin you're screwed... I bought the same kit years ago ( 4 rotors plus 4 sets of brakes). After a month it started squealing. I put new autozone pads on the front and it didn't do any good either. I just dealt with it for a while and said oh well. I've had the fronts turned 3 times in 2 years and its good for about 2 months then back to the same noise. The rotors are hellllla cheap and warp. Mine are cracking as well. Just ordered a pair of EBC sport dimpled and slotted rotors and yellow stuff pads for 330 front only. Good stuff costs money and the package I bought worked for the time being when I didn't make as much money. Still I would definatly not reccomend that kit to....anyone.
 
Not to mention the time it took to pull everthing off 5 times. Tried the silicone on the back, sanding the brakes and rotors for the glaze and many other things. After messing with that kit so many times and taking everything apart I was able to do my left front bearing hub in 15 mins from whee off to on. Trust me they will not get any better no matter what u do... just a heads up. Just my personal experiance and opinion.
 
grease the backs and ears of the pads

did ya grease the rear of the pads and the ears? grease em up but don't get the grease of the pad surface or rotor. also did ya remove the caliper pins and regrease them?
 
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Just an FYI here, since I see in this thread a "lot" of people opted for some brake kit with cross drilled rotors.....

I would advise not using them, as they do pretty much nothing other than "look kewl" through the rims. What they do have the propensity to do, especially the cheapos, is blow apart under hard breaking situations. Last thing one needs is to have a rotor self destruct under an emergency braking situation.

My other car is an E36 M3, and there's boatloads of places one can get fancy kewl cross drilled BBKs and such for them, and pretty much nobody gets them any more. All the guys that track and autoX, either for fun or with dedicated track cars, have seen enough X-drilled rotors come apart to risk running them.

These are cars that weigh a thousand pounds, or more, less than the LS, so there's more strain on the brakes with the Lincoln than with an E36.

Y(alls)MMV....
 
Thanks Commander cody, but that is not new information. We all know that the benefits of these brakes are not noticeable during everyday driving to the regular driver(been covered many times)...other than decresased brake dust from the ceramic pads.

Also very few, if any members, now that Quik is gone, track their cars. So we do in fact just get these for the looks or the "kewl" factor.
 
I took my brakes apart today, greased with spots where the pads slide with Mobil 1 synthetic grease and I greased the back of the pads with Permatex ceramic lube. It got rid of some of the squealing (like when backing/driving down my driveway that's a hill), but I still get some squealing on moderate to heavy braking.

What gives? It's obviously something with these cars. I've done brake jobs on quite a few cars without greasing everything and never had brake squeal.
 

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