Coolant problems

rickztahone

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So i replaced a hose on my 01 LS this past weekend and of course didn't follow Quik's instructions on our database (smart one). Now i'm having problems with car and it sounds like crap. Also, temp gauge keeps wanting to go up. It's usually just below the half way mark and yesterday it almost made it the 3/4 line. I was going to work and i just turned around and went home and got my wifes car :p.

So, i think my problem is that i didn't drain the system in the first place. Second, i didn't open the engine air bleed, nor the heater air bleed.

The only problem that i can't quite figure out is why my coolant was leaking from somewhere. I figured if i didn't flush the cooling system properly it would just give me problems not leak. So i'm trying to find the leak and I will probably just flush it all over again.

Any advice?
 
Where exactly is it leaking from? Front, rear, side? Maybe some pics?
 
Just realized the engine air bleed is for the 3.0 only

Yes, but the V8 has an engine fill cap, and you do have to follow the procedure when filling to get the air out. Follow the procedure, but in short the steps are:

Open both caps and the heater air bleed.
Fill the degas.
Fill the engine. Put engine fill cap back on.
Top off the degas.
Put degas cap on.
Run engine. Close heater bleed when steady stream comes out.
Keep running till engine is full temperature.
Hold gas pedal down to get 2500 RPM.
Open heater bleed to get the rest of the air out (takes two people).
Close bleed.
Let engine cool completely.
Fill degas bottle to fill line.
 
Yes, but the V8 has an engine fill cap, and you do have to follow the procedure when filling to get the air out. Follow the procedure, but in short the steps are:

Open both caps and the heater air bleed.
Fill the degas.
Fill the engine. Put engine fill cap back on.
Top off the degas.
Put degas cap on.
Run engine. Close heater bleed when steady stream comes out.
Keep running till engine is full temperature.
Hold gas pedal down to get 2500 RPM.
Open heater bleed to get the rest of the air out (takes two people).
Close bleed.
Let engine cool completely.
Fill degas bottle to fill line.

Yay, i found the leak. So now, i know where the leak is at and i will replace that part. It is actually a gasket right under the engine fill cap. I will also just start over and drain the coolant, but how do you drain the coolant that is already there? the first time around basically all my coolant leaked out due to a busted hose.

Thanks for the help in advance
 
Yay, i found the leak. So now, i know where the leak is at and i will replace that part. It is actually a gasket right under the engine fill cap. I will also just start over and drain the coolant, but how do you drain the coolant that is already there? the first time around basically all my coolant leaked out due to a busted hose.

Thanks for the help in advance

There's really no reason to drain it other than to replace the coolant or to get the level to be below the leak. You drain it from the passenger side of the radiator at the bottom. When you close the drain, hand tighten it, don't crank on it with a wrench.

You would be wise to replace the cooling tower and cap with the Jaguar metal parts. They're not expensive, and they shouldn't ever fail again.
 
I would buy the jag one but I'm pressed for cash currently. I'm going out of town on a semi vacation and I'm already using some of the money from the vacation :-/.

So, the leak is coming from the plastic union where the thermostat resides. My question is, is there another gasket there besides the thermostat gasket (o ring)? I ask because as I was taking the 3 screws off there was a very thin rubber like gasket there but I think it may have been put there by someone other than dealer. My second question is if I should also add that gasket which seems to be that "make your own gasket" type thing they sell at local auto part stores? It just seems that if only the o ring from the thermostat housing is there it would leak. Thoughts?
 
I only see the one o-ring like gasket, but I don't have a gen I to look at.

308789278.jpg
 
The only gasket between the cooling tower(8952b) and thermostat housing (8592a) is the rubber gasket (8590) that comes with the thermostat. Theres no need to add anything else.
 
You would be wise to replace the cooling tower and cap with the Jaguar metal parts. They're not expensive, and they shouldn't ever fail again.

Joegr,

Do you have any kind of link to the Jaguar parts??? I have no Jag dealer where I live. AFAIK, nothing even remotely close.

Thanks,

---Mike---
 
On my gen II I replaced all the parts and tried bleeding the system but I get absolutely no collant out of the bleeder hose. I dunno why. Im gonna take it by the stealership but I have no idea what I did wrong
 
On my gen II I replaced all the parts and tried bleeding the system but I get absolutely no collant out of the bleeder hose. I dunno why. Im gonna take it by the stealership but I have no idea what I did wrong

Did you fill the degas bottle to the top (not the cold or hot fill lines, the very top of the bottle).
Did you put the degas cap on tight while bleeding (also the engine fill cap).


If you did, and still got nothing out of the heater bleed, you still have a big leak somewhere.
 

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