Transmission fill easy as pie

R

Right on the Mark

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Messages
4,519
Reaction score
139
Location
here
Ok guys I just bought my LS and replaced the motor and in doing so lost some trans fluid while pulling converter. I have the factory DVD for this and it states a whole 20 step procedure and needing special fill tool and vacuum tool. None of this is needed at all. Drive car get trans up to operating temp. I put mine on my lift so car is level and can get to everything. You will have to figure out to do the same. Make the car LEVEL. To check fluid level just unscrew the small center plug inside the larger drain nut with the car idling in park. If some trans fluid leaks out its full. If none dribbles out, put little plug back in bottom of pan. Unscrew the welch plug in rear of trans like right above the trans crossmember. This plug is facing the rear of car and is marked on the trans from ford. You need a way to pump 1 or 2 qrts of trans fluid in that hole. Start car and remove lower little plug untill fluid stops dripping out of the pan. When it stops drooling its full. Put all plugs back in and your DONE. Way to simple.
 
works well for adding sea foam and driving about a 100 miles then getting the whole thing flushed
 
The main point being made is you don't need all the special tools ford says you need. All you need is the 14 dollar orange hand pump from autozone. Bet if you had couple of minutes you could use a turkey baster to shoot fluid in there if stuck for a pump. Just take couple minutes longer for a top up that is. Everyone in posts I read say its sealed its dealer only. I want to stop that talk with this thread when peeps search it.
 
well, i hope this thread helps me tomorrow! i went out tonight, pulled the drain plug, dropped the pan, replaced the filter, then started looking around for the dipstick - then i read the owners manual! yep i know! i was stairing at the wall trying to figure out what i was going to do. i had the idea of pulling the center plug from the mainn plug and pumping fluid up into it. I am hoping i will find this plug tomorrow morning!

ours is a 2002 ls V8

i will post an update.
 
You can pump it in thru the center of the drain plug. You will need a tube that has the correct pipe thread on end. Also if pump in thru bottom I just think it might be more of a mess. All over fill has to come down and down is on you. If filled from rear plug no nipple needed and that hole is up higher so no drool on you.
 
ok, got mine done - like you said - easy as pie, just doens't taste like pie!
the pan was a little tight getting past the shifting mechanism, and hangs on the rear transmission mount, but comes out pretty easy. 2 bolts on the filter.

here are some pictures of what i did. i aslo ended up using about 5.5qts just changing the filter.

drain / fill plug
pandrainplug.jpg


drain / fill plug parts
pandrainplug.jpg


location of easy fill plug - see orange thread sealer
fillplug.jpg


easy fill plug removed
fillplugremoved.jpg


pump i used to refill - i ended up using the white one - very easy
pumps.jpg
 
tonytouch said:
My transmission fluid plug is stripped. is there any other way to fill
Click to expand...

Yes you can fill it thru the center small "checker plug" on bottom of pan. You will need to get piece of correct threaded pipe to screw into large drain nut after you remove little center plug. Put outlet of your trans fluid pump to the pipe(hose clamp on) you just screwed into bottom of pan and pump fluid in.
 
so trying to get pan off - are you supposed to loosen up the cross member? cause I can't seem to get it off - there is also plug connection on the side that seems to be in the way- just wanted to make sure its okay to unplug it before i do. any advice appreciated thanks.
 
No and yes. Remove the plug connection but you dont need to remove the cross member. If you angle the front of the pan down in the front it will come out
 
yup worked - removed the plug connection. thanks.
 
Ok, something's missing here. You guys are only adding a couple quarts, to a transmission fliud change, that requires 11.5 quarts to be full. Where is the other 9 or so quarts. Back in the day, we used to pull the pan, and let it drain. Then we pulled the plug on the torque converter, (facing down), and let it drain. Then, for good measure, we used to start up the vehicle, :eek: and let is spray tranny fluid everywhere, until it wouldn't spray anymore. Then we knew it was close to empty. Know what??? Then it took around the manuals recommended quantity for it to be full. Hmmm... Imagine that??? Unless you are willing to do this yourself, maybe it's a good idea to take the vehicle to a dealer, and let them flush it until they see bright red. Then they will top it off, and you will be on your way for about $150, and you will have no worries. If you are only replacing a couple quarts per filter change, you aren't doing :q:q:q:q. Take it to the dealer! Not saying their's is the cheapest, but if they are reputable, their's is the easiest, and the best. Otherwise, do it my way, If you have the experience. Otherwise... Go ahead... change a couple quarts, and burn up your tranny.
 
this isn't about a flush or filter change, this is about topping off the trans fluid since there is no dipstick.

in the OP's case, he was refilling since he changed the torque converter.
 
The reason I'm dropping the pan is to change the filter and clean the magnet. I have had it flushed previously and yes for 150 at dealer is def worth it. but each has their place. Especially since some people don't recommend flushes at a certain point. I will not be getting one but I have no evidence to back that up.

Just to add background info-
I had a flush at 75k - shifted great smoother P to D(didn't really have a problem to begin with just preventive)
And now at 120k, no slipping, sometimes a hard shift between P and D. fluid looks dark red/ black - magnet was covered pretty good but no big chunks. Some substantial rust around the pan - and around outside of gasket.
so good idea to clean it off before it gets worse.
 
JaredLS said:
The reason I'm dropping the pan is to change the filter and clean the magnet. I have had it flushed previously and yes for 150 at dealer is def worth it. but each has their place. Especially since some people don't recommend flushes at a certain point. I will not be getting one but I have no evidence to back that up.

Just to add background info-
I had a flush at 75k - shifted great smoother P to D(didn't really have a problem to begin with just preventive)
And now at 120k, no slipping, sometimes a hard shift between P and D. fluid looks dark red/ black - magnet was covered pretty good but no big chunks. Some substantial rust around the pan - and around outside of gasket.
so good idea to clean it off before it gets worse.
Click to expand...

Well when you have the pan off I would change the solenoid too so then you'll be good for another 75-100,000 miles. Thats what I would do if it were mine.
 
Ok. Top off. I get it. I still stand behind what I said. On top of that, I will back up what Hite said. Change the solenoid pack. 2003 and earlier had some shifting issues. There is a superceeded part number for the solenoid pack that should resolve these issues, according to a friend of mine at the local Ford dealer. This could also affect certain 2004 vehicles. I had my friend check mine, and I had the older solenoid pack. So... new solenoid pack, and 16 quarts of Motorcraft tranny fluid sitting in the garage right now. About $450. No additive necessary with the fluid from about 2004 on. To clarify that statement... Mercron V includes the additive. Anything previous to Mercron V did not include the additive, and was added by TSB through the dealer. So if you know someone that burnt up a tranny in earlier models, it was due to lack of the addtive, or a lack of transmission fluid change to Mercron V. If you want to know what TSB's apply to your vehicle, go to your local dealer, give them your VIN number, and they should be able to give you a printout as to what applies to your vehicle. Even better, an OASIS report will give you any info on service provided throughout the vehicles lifetime, by any dealer.

---Mike---

P.S. TSB means - Technical Service Bulletin
 
Want to change the trans fluid and filter in my 2002 LS. After reading this thread it seems pretty straightforward. If I were to take the car in to be serviced, would they drain the converter and change the trans filter as part of their service? I've seen service costs range from $90 at the lube places to $150 at a dealer. I'm pretty good at these things, but I've never owned a newer Ford like this before. What is this trans solenoid you guys speak of? I don't have trans issues but want to stay proactive, so I need a little more info. Thanks
 
cgoldbach said:
Want to change the trans fluid and filter in my 2002 LS. After reading this thread it seems pretty straightforward. If I were to take the car in to be serviced, would they drain the converter and change the trans filter as part of their service? I've seen service costs range from $90 at the lube places to $150 at a dealer. I'm pretty good at these things, but I've never owned a newer Ford like this before. What is this trans solenoid you guys speak of? I don't have trans issues but want to stay proactive, so I need a little more info. Thanks
Click to expand...

first off if you decide on a transmission flush - go to a dealer the extra $60 will actually get you what you paid for and perhaps save your transmission.
A transmission flush will not get you a new filter (nor clean your magnet or pan.) without a lift it is a medium PITA.

A drop and fill will get you a new filter but it will result in about only 6 quarts of new fluid instead of 11? in a flush. This procedure can also become "difficult." Requiring a level surface. The level check plug may be stripped and require replacement of the entire drain plug (good to check before replacing and filling).

so each option has ups and downs. I have not changed the shift solenoid, but as far as I can tell the shift solenoids refer to the way the transmission jerks/ or takes time to shift from P to D. Eventually it can brake and you loose reverse? there is a guide somewhere here but it involved taking off the transmission...so a bit to involved for me.
 
If you have no means of getting the LS on a lift, what is the best recommendation of doing this topping off of the fluid at home. Jacks on all four sides?
 
marcopepe said:
If you have no means of getting the LS on a lift, what is the best recommendation of doing this topping off of the fluid at home. Jacks on all four sides?
Click to expand...

Or you could dig a hole under the car...
Or you could pay someone with a lift or a pit to do it...
 
For the most part, I believe Lincoln's idea was to herd most owners to a shop for transmission service and truly because they most likely wanted a filter replaced anytime there was any fluids being drained and refilled. It really is a great idea to do a fluid and filter change all at the same time to be certain a mechanic sees what's in the pan and filter such as fine metal etc. It only stands to help diagnose a future or existing problem all while replacing the filter with a fresh batch of Mercon 5. I change the trans fluid and filters in all my cars every 25,000 to 30,000 miles just to be good to them. Ford/Lincoln says every 100,000 miles which I cannot fathom. So, no dip stick means the shade tree mechanics will opt likely to getting recommended service done rather than getting a job done only half as it should (half ass).
 
Some have said the valve body did the fix rather than the solenoid pack. There's a revised valve body too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 249 (members: 1, guests: 248)
Back
Top