Griding feel from brakes

gdubya

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Dec 4, 2010
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Twin Cities, MN
Ironically, as I was on the way to the parts store for brake parts for my wife's minivan I started to feel/hear a grinding when braking. It did this on even gentle braking. If I did the slightest braking I could still just barely feel and/or hear it. I assumed just wear parts so I picked up pads for all 4 wheels and suspecting a front pad was worn down I got front rotors too. I pulled the front wheels and the pads look to still have a fair amount of material left and the rotors feel smooth. I have not checked the rears, but since this sounded as if coming from the front I am now wondering if it is something kicking in the ABS since it also felt similar to that at the pedal. I did NOT replace the pads/rotors yet because I am suspecting that will not fix it, and if I am going to be into this for a lot of cash I might have to return those parts (about $200) and go in a different direction.

Any ideas? Should I just replace the regular wear parts and see if that helps? Anything I can easily check or any junkyard parts I can fairly easily swap (there are a couple Contis in my local U-Pull) to test?
 
Did you clean them off and try them again? Obviously I don't know how violent or small the grinding is but it could be some sand or junk up in there
 
Took another test drive and I'm pretty convinced that it is somehow related to the ABS system. It feels just too regular of a sensation through the pedal, and I can feel/hear it even when braking very lightly.

Wondering what I could do to disable/test the ABS system or sensors?
 
Definitely something with the ABS. Ended up pulling a fuse to test (which took out the distance function, and power steering too) and the brakes were fine, no grinding or loss of stopping power and no pedal vibration. Conneted everything back up and it was OK at first but now is back intermittently like before.

I am tempted to try to swap out the ABS control module with a junkyard part but my Chiltons doesn't show it very well and it says you should remove the HCU as well and that it would need to be bled after removing the HCU with the special bleeding tools, etc. Is there any way to swap the ABS controller without bleeding the system? Can I just disconnect the cable to the ABS/HCU and just be without ABS or would that affect something else like my power steering too just like pulling the fuse?
 
Pulled a sensor cable which seemed to disable just ABS. However, a smaller grinding/creaking noise can still occasionally be felt. I don;t think it is ABS any more, I think the actual problem is causing the ABS to kick in and be really noticeable. I think the caliper is either sticking and/or the flex line on that side is bad. I felt around and that rim was much warmer than others. Planning to replace that caliper and maybe both fronts for good measure, install the new pads/rotors in front and see how things look.
 
Had to leave for vacation before I got a chance to dig into this, but I started my brake job and found my passenger front tone ring is cracked and slips freely on the axle.

Anyone know if I can I just pry off that tone ring and the ABS will just not work or is there something else that will mess up?
 
After vacation I dug back into this. Replaced the caliper that was sticking, and pads and the rotor which was warped. It was slightly better, but still had that rim hot after a short test drive and the same ABS kicking in. I found I had a collapsed soft brake line host on one side. Raplaced that and the pulling and hot rim was totally gone, but the ABS Still kicking in needlessly. I tacked the ABS tone ring on the other side that was loose, but I still get the ABS kicking in almost every time braking, expecially around 20-40mph. On the highway it was just fine. Tried to pull the sensor on the side that got hot to see if it could be cleaned and/or tested and it was super hard to remove and had to grab it hard enough that it came apart as I pulled it out. That disabled the ABS and makes the car stop normally which is good enough for me right now.

If I can figure out where the other end of those wheel speed sensors connect, then I can maybe get some new sensors or pull some old ones the next time I get to the junkyard to see if that makes any difference. Beginning to wonder if the heat damaged the one on the side with the collapsed hose.
 

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