Slight coolant leak

I got the new water pump (with metal impeller) installed. I did see spots where coolant had made its way out. The existing gasket, although it was only 3-4 years old.

When I was bleeding the system (Front slanted down, of course) I noticed that the fan wasn’t going on…even when I switched on the AC.

So, I searched and found this post...

Test 1: Turn the AC on. The fan should come on. If not, you have a problem.

Locate the cooling fan connector(s). If you are lucky, you will have the setup with two, two wire connectors. If not, you have the single four wire connector (harder to troubleshoot).

Test 2: Check for battery power on the large red/yellow wire. If no power, then suspect the 60A in-line fuse. If the fuse is blown, your fan is probably bad too.

Test 3: With the key turned to run, check for 12V power on the small green/yellow wire. If no power, then check fuse F1.05 in the box under the hood.

Test 4: If you have the two, two pin connectors, unplug the one with the two small wires. Jumper +12V to the green/yellow wire (on the fan side, not the car side). Do not connect anything to the white/black wire. The fan should start and run at full speed. If it doesn't, then the fan is bad. If the fan does run, then your PCM is bad.
My fan would not come on. I did have an extra fan but it had the single connector. Using alligator clips, I was able to get my extra fan to turn on. So, I clipped the connectors and made my one connector fan a two connector fan!

After bleeding, with the car idling for 15-20 min with the AC blasting, the temp never got over 205!
 
If you have a temp gun, shoot some of the smaller coolant hoses for temp check.

I think you'll find them running around 225-230.
Will do…regardless…it appears to be functioning properly and I’m very pleased that I figured out the fan issue.

One other thing I discovered while replacing the water pump was that the screws mounting it to the block were not tight at all. The hack that installed it (your truly), has a tremendous fear of stripping bolts and bolt holes. They are intended to be pretty tight at 8Nm and then another 90 degrees. That could have also played a role in my “slight leak.”

Finally, in my 2004 service manual, there is an O-ring that was installed between the water pump and the block that isn’t in the 2006 online manual. I suppose Ford determined that the O-ring wasn’t necessary.

IMG_2357.jpeg
 
The hack that installed it (your truly), has a tremendous fear of stripping bolts and bolt holes. They are intended to be pretty tight at 8Nm and then another 90 degrees.
I don't recall that. IIRC... all the bolts are to be tightened to 89 inch pounds. (0.113 Newton meters).
 
I don't know what to say. I've put 3 water pumps on my V8 and just torqued to 89 inch pounds with no leaks... unless those procedures are for the metal Jag pump. (shrug)
 

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