Overheated...

rgorke

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2004 V8. All the plastic parts have been replaced in the past 3-4 years. Yesterday, was in 100+ weather with the AC going. When the car is moving, temp is 205-210. When I stopped at a signal, the temp rose up to 225, on to the freeway back to 205-210.

Today, mid-upper 80s running a few short trip errands. Started car, left parking lot and noticed AC wasn't really cold (usually it is low 40s, yes I have a thermometer in the vent). Got on the freeway and within 30 secs car was over heating, turned up heater to 90 and got off at next off ramp and found a safe parking spot and turn engine off.

When I opened the hood, I noticed coolant on the DCCV valve but I couldn't tell if it was coming from the DCCV valve or above it. The upper hose was dry. After about 10-15 mins, I slowly opened the Degas bottle and it was still under pressure.

The radiator was replaced in 2016 but maybe they don't necessarily last very long.

I came across this post from Joe..
213 is not a problem. I don't think the fan gets to max till about 230. Note that the fan doesn't run while the car is moving at reasonable speed. The radiator hose should be firm by the time the temp gauge gets to the midpoint.

You typically will not see any leaks, and the coolant will be very slow to fall. It's more a matter of air leaking in than coolant leaking out (though some does). You may be able to see some dry powder like stains where some leaks are. If all your plastic cooling parts haven't been replaced in the last six years, then there's your problem. Eventually, the radiator will crack at the top front on the passenger side. You have to remove the upper support on that side to see it.

Do the DCCVs fail or could it most likely be the radiator?

I hope to know more once I can get it back home and apart but some preliminary thoughts would be helpful.
 
Yes, DCCVs fail. Often with internal leaks, but sometimes with external ones instead.
Is your fan working at idle? It should be pretty loud with the AC on.
The radiators usually crack near the top on the right tank (right from the driver's perspective) in the front. You have to remove that radiator support at the top to see it.
Also, check your aux pump.
 
Yes, DCCVs fail. Often with internal leaks, but sometimes with external ones instead.
Is your fan working at idle? It should be pretty loud with the AC on.
The radiators usually crack near the top on the right tank (right from the driver's perspective) in the front. You have to remove that radiator support at the top to see it.
Also, check your aux pump.
Thanks!

I can’t seem to find the auxiliary pump anywhere…Rockauto, Ford Parts Giant, etc.

Probably a sign to start my front cover replacement and timing chain tensioners.
 
Advance Auto. Special order.
IMG_20230806_022243230.jpg
 
It and the Rein (Jaguar version) look the same, but the Jag version has a different mounting bracket.
Both brackets are rubber... and slip on/off the pump housing fairly easy.
 
I know my radiator is fubar... thanks to a kamikaze raccoon.

I still have to figure out how to straiten the A/C condenser. It has one heck of a bow in it.
 
The 5 row radiator might be too thick.
Yeah, I ended up going with the 3 row. A little bit more better than stock.

I’ve got the parts on the way, hopefully here in a couple of days.

I had forgotten what a pain removing the PS pump is...(and the A/C condenser and the PS bracket. All that because one stupid bolt is behind the PS bracket that also holds the belt tensioner. I was 2 mins away from taking my Dremel to the bracket and making a space to get the bolt out.
 
My Aux pump came today, a Bosch 073 rather than 071…BUT the connector is the wrong type. Seems I have a few options:

1). Return it and try to get an 071.
2). Find a connector that fits the new aux and splice it in.
3). Find an adapter that will work between the connector and the aux pump.

IMG_1928.jpeg
 

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