Search results

Done a road test. It Hung around 203 most of the time. Nothing seemed odd about the off brand thermostat housing at all to me. I can say it wasn't fun putting the thermostat in the housing (oem parts).

Let the car run for about 20 min and the highest it reached was 194. I would say it's OK now.

Well that escalated quickly.... .

I just want my car to be "cool" again.

I am in Clayton NC.

OK, sounds like it's opening properly then. I've already ordered the parts. I'll update everyone when I get it installed. Probably won't see it till next week ordering this late in the week.

Sorry for not being clear. The driver side hose was a lot cooler than the passenger side. According to your description the upper radiator hose was hot way before 170 degrees.

Not sure if it matters or not but the left hose is a heck of a lot hotter than the right even after reaching operating temperature for about 15 minutes. I tried to do the full bleed procedure one last time, no dice. Ordering the parts now for thermostat and such.

The aftermarket one didn't come with a cap so it was retained. Water outlet is OEM, down tube is OEM, thermostat housing and thermostat came together, non oem

Sorry just had to blow some "steam" off with a bad joke.

My joke didn't show up, but here is the description Bar's Leaks 1150 Grey Cooling System Repair

So what you are saying is........ 3 bottles of this stuff? hahahahah, Joking joking

This what I need?

o_O

Can't I just take the thermostat out and see if it runs hot? Or nah?

If I need a thermostat. Would I need the housing also or just thermostat?

That upper radiator hose was the second to last thing I replaced. Less than a month ago. Since I did have plastic parts to break off the old water outlet and the old thermostat housing I could see that causing some problems with mine too. I'll update everybody once I bleed it and see what it does.

I could see that possibility, the old water outlet was brittle and the part that that the thermostat fit up against was broken in parts so it wasn't "pretty and round" like the new one I put on. If it is the thermostat's fault that's an easy fix so I would be happy with that.

Interesting. Think I should replace the lower radiator hose? The coolant level is staying steady. I'll probably do the bleeding procedure first. Maybe this afternoon.

As I mentioned in my first post I've put a leak tester on it and it help pressure properly. So there are no leaks (now). I did have a crack in the topen of my radiator also though. Only cooling component that hasn't been replaced is the lower radiator hose and it's not leaking (yet). Well and...