Another picture from the shop manual, the text reads:
"Remove the air assist hose from both sides of the intake manifold and the idle air control (IAC) valve."
Hello! Replaced the fuel injectors on my '02 LS V8 this weekend and managed to snap the vacuum hose that goes between the intake manifold and the throttle body on the passenger side. The shop manual calls it an "air assist line", and after finding it online I see that it's discontinued...
What I meant by it taking time is they must dismount the tire and rotate it. Measuring RFV is dead simple. The following video gives an idea of how easy it is. Keep in mind that Hunter didn't just make road force balancers. They also made regular spin balancers. So the machine you saw may have...
That's the problem these days. These "good ole boys" aren't interested in learning anything new. They've been "doing X this way for 50 years and that's how they're going to keep doing it". The irony there is that road force balancing has been around for over 30 years. It's not complicated, and...
I'm not really sure what else to say to it being an "art". The Hunter GSP9700 is the most common road force balancer out there and it shows the tech *exactly* where to mark both the wheel and tire. If the shops you're getting your tires from can't follow such simple instructions, you might look...
Then the guys running those machines had no idea what they were doing. This isn't a theoretical topic. It's basic physics. There's a reason that Tesla, Audi, etc (and your "exotics") all do road force balancing right off the line.
This isn't showing your age, it's showing your misunderstanding of the topic being discussed. RFV has nothing to do with static (up and down) and dynamic (side to side) balancing. Static and dynamic balancing are corrected with weights. Road force balancing is not and never has been corrected...
It's not my experience, it's how they run their company. It's not a local policy to skip force matching unless the force measurement is over 35 lbs. It's the company's policy. Period.
That doesn't mean that they aren't ripping customers off, just like the rest of the big chain stores. Most people have no idea that they aren't getting what they've paid for. And a customer shouldn't have to be an expert and watch over these places to make sure they're getting what they've paid...
If I say so? Ok.
Worn wheel bearing, nor worn/bad shock, has absolutely zero to do with RFV. The force measurement is performed with the rim+tire off the vehicle. RFV is for the rotating assembly *alone*. If you want to go read up on RFV and then come back to have further discussion about it...
Sorry for the delayed response here. Been dealing with a few things, and actually went through this same balancing mess with my wife's car as well since she recently got new tires and the balance job was horrible.
Not sure what you mean by "NVH". What we're discussing is RFV, which is...
Actually, these values might be in inches. Which makes the RFV even higher (0.015in = 25 lbs, 0.024 = 40 lbs). So it's looking more to me like the shop just didn't want to mess with actually dismounting the tires and match mounting. It's a place called Big O Tires (national chain) and guessing...
This year has been the year of fun and money pit action with the LS. Earlier this Fall I had all of the frontend suspension replaced. But I still had a bad shimmy in the front end between 75 - 85 MPH. I took it back to that shop and they balanced the front wheels. Said each wheel was right about...
Thanks guys. I thought it might be the tires as well, so I moved that driver side front wheel to the back and back to the front. Vibration stayed in the front left driver side. Guess I'll go ahead and replace that outer tie rod on the driver side.
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