Hey everyone,

I've tried unlocking the doors with the key and using the remote, but when I turn the ignition - the car acts like it will start, then shuts down and the alarm goes off. I hit the unlock button on the remote and the alarm shuts off. I can't start my car. Can someone help?
Yes, the transmission is in Park.

Thanks.

try opening and shutting the trunk... thought I read somethign about that..

try opening and shutting the trunk... thought I read somethign about that..

I went into the trunk to get out the tire iron and car jack so I could take off the wheel and paint the brake calipers. Well the tire iron is rusted so I put the things back in the trunk to get a new tire iron. That's when the car wouldn't start. I went inside b/c its hot as :q here for 10 mins, then tried again - still didn't start, I opened the trunk again to see if that I had anything to do with starting the car, and it didn't start.
After I lock the doors - the light on the dashboard for the alarm is not blinking either.
Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks.

I know LLSOC.com has a section about a starting problem in their faq section. Check that.

check the connection on your battery.... its in your trunk.. maybe you knocked it loose..

I know LLSOC.com has a section about a starting problem in their faq section. Check that.

I'm not a member and it takes a week for the application to be processed. Can anyone help?

Thanks.

were trying.. are you gettin anything.. does it try to turn over.. a clickin noise??

I'm not a member and it takes a week for the application to be processed. Can anyone help?

Thanks.

You don't need to be a member to see the faq. Just go to http://llsoc.com/V2R1/resources/FAQ.asp

were trying.. are you gettin anything.. does it try to turn over.. a clickin noise??

I did check the battery connection, and the car is acting like it will start, then shuts off, then the car alarm starts blaring. The radio plays, the A/C runs, but the ignition will not start the car. yes, I did turn off all accessories when trying to start it.

i dont know if a possible dead battery in the remote would be it.. try phone the local LM dealership speak to the service manager.. let us know.. i'm sure someone else will post whats wrong..

Maybe the key got reset somehow. If the chip in the key was reset, the car will start (or at least try), and then turn off, followed by the alarm.

isnt there a way to reprogram the key?

Ok, I tried the step in FAQ for LLSOC and blew the PATS fuse (easy to replace - at least the horn doesn't blare anymore), but now the car doesn't even try to start like it did before - the accessories will still turn on though.
As far the key being reset, I tried with the spare key that sits in the kitchen drawer and I had the same issue.
Any other ideas?
I just have the feeling that the service advisor will say - we need to see the car before I can tell you anything, which I can't afford now or in the near future.

tell him your a loyal lincoln driver if he could possibly point you int he right direction..

sounds like you are having a pats system malfuntion.have seen a few transceiver problems.think that there is also a tsb for something simular to your problem

sounds like you are having a pats system malfuntion.have seen a few transceiver problems.think that there is also a tsb for something simular to your problem

What is a tsb?

i think its similiar to a recall!!>..

14. My LS won't start. Here's one possible solution.

#825 of 831 No Start Condition (#812: mskusa) by reneleblanc Jan 01, 2001 (09:29 pm)



I would refer you to some previous posts of mine, but with this new "improved" list software, I can't get back there to section VII or VIII, where ever it was to find the reference.


I and at least one other LS owner had a problem with the PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) that caused a no-crank situation. If you are experiencing a no-crank condition, watch the PATS LED on the top of the dashboard after you turn the key. In my case, it began to flash rapidly; then after about a minute it stopped for a few seconds and then flashed once and paused and flashed once again, to indicate the code "11" (as I recall).


In my case, the problem was a bad connection between the four-conductor cable to the PATS transceiver and its connector. This is right next to the ignition key lock. I pried the small simulated wood plate around the ignition key lock off and could see the cable and connector with a green part on it. I took a pair of needle nose pliers and firmly grabbed the cable and vigorously tugged back and forth on it to better seat its connection with the connector. The connector makes contact by puncturing the insulation in the cable when a machine squeezes it down onto the cable during manufacturing. If it isn't squeezed down with enough pressure, the little contacts don't make a good connection, and if the insulation expands a little, it will open up and you won't be able to start your car. After I reseated it (probably last August or September) it has never failed again.

did you check if you had a loose pats connection?

did you check if you had a loose pats connection?

Yea, I responded earlier in the thread -

"Ok, I tried the step in FAQ for LLSOC and blew the PATS fuse (easy to replace - at least the horn doesn't blare anymore), but now the car doesn't even try to start like it did before" - the accessories will still turn on though.
As far the key being reset, I tried with the spare key that sits in the kitchen drawer and I had the same issue.
Any other ideas?
I just have the feeling that the service advisor will say - we need to see the car before I can tell you anything, which I can't afford now or in the near future.

did you check the light on the dash? does it flash quickly?

did you check the light on the dash? does it flash quickly?

Yes it does for about a minute, then goes back to normal flashing like the door is locked even though the key is still in the ignition and the doors are unlocked.

"watch the PATS LED on the top of the dashboard after you turn the key. In my case, it began to flash rapidly; then after about a minute it stopped for a few seconds and then flashed once and paused and flashed once again, to indicate the code "11" (as I recall)."

Dont know what the code 11 means but im sure quick or ghost might know.

"watch the PATS LED on the top of the dashboard after you turn the key. In my case, it began to flash rapidly; then after about a minute it stopped for a few seconds and then flashed once and paused and flashed once again, to indicate the code "11" (as I recall)."

Dont know what the code 11 means but im sure quick or ghost might know.

It flashed rapidly for about a minute, then flashed like normal (when the car is locked.)

What is a tsb?
TSB = Technical Service Bulletin. It's not a recall; when a manufacturer repeatedly sees a problem and discerns a solution, they issue a TSB so the techs/mechanics will know how to solve it. It's analogous to a recall in that it is a solution to a problem, but it's different in that Lincoln won't call you to have the work done, because it's not a safety issue (normally).

If you know that there's a TSB that's applicable to your issue, you can point it out to the service advisor before you go so they can be ready for you before you go in. It's also useful if you go to a reputable shop/mechanic for the repair--they should have access to the TSBs as well (either from the manufacturer or through a service like Alldata). You can also ask the dealer service advisor to check Ford's system (OASIS, as I recall) to see if a particular TSB has been done on you car by an FLM dealership.

It sounds like you have a PATS problem or possibly a weak battery. The weak battery is less likely, but AutoZone (and many other chains) will test your battery for free, so what's to lose?

Perhaps a current LLSOC member can check the TSB list; I would, but I have to get up early tomorrow, and surfing the Web on this Treo is slow...

weak battery.

it has enough to unlock the doors but not enough to start the car - happens to me all the time....

You try to start it - it turns over a few times, dies and then the alarm starts blarring.

check to see if the battery 'health' light is green - I bet it is red or black.

I think Quik is dead on. That is the first thing to look at anyway. You say it cranks for a minute then dies. Does it slowly die? Or does it crank quickly and then just quit like you shut the key off? If it's cranking slowly...and slowly dies, that is an indication that the battery is weak. It won't have enough cranking voltage to fire the ignition and injectors. When it dies like that, the alarm has some adaptive stratagy that thinks the battery cables have been cut and sets off the horn. (it's something like that...but I don't know exactly how it works) The only thing that has me confused is the PATS light (alarm light on the dash) starts flashing quickly. That indicates a Pats problem. I'm going to give you a way to make a very quick check. Try it again. As soon as the car quits cranking, stick a voltmeter across the battery terminals and measure the voltage. It should be approximately 12 volts. It shouldn't be below that! If it is, replace/recharge your battery. I'll bet your problem disappears.

As to checking the battery indicator light...I've seen a LOT of bad batteries that stayed green. Those aren't dependable indicators. Check with a voltmeter.

weak battery.

it has enough to unlock the doors but not enough to start the car - happens to me all the time....

You try to start it - it turns over a few times, dies and then the alarm starts blarring.

check to see if the battery 'health' light is green - I bet it is red or black.

I just replaced the battery with a new one, the old one needed to be recharged - after I had driven the car for 30 mins (before this happened - making me think its bad and won't hold the charge.)
The car still won't start - won't even turnover once. Is it possible the FAQ from LLSOC's trick of tugging the ignition wire could've screwed me?

The battery Autozone sold me was a 65-DL Duralast and it doesn't have a place to put the hose for the battery gases. Is this battery ok or do I need to change it out? Thanks.

I may be wrong but i thought that vent is necessary.

nope - take it back. You need the vent tube - they probably didn't realize that your battery was located in the car - the gases generated while the battery is being charged are both explosive and harmful to inhale.

nope - take it back. You need the vent tube - they probably didn't realize that your battery was located in the car - the gases generated while the battery is being charged are both explosive and harmful to inhale.

I am going to take the battery back, but the battery has 750 cranking amps and the car still wouldn't start. Could the battery still be the reason it won't start or something else?

Thanks

The battery Autozone sold me was a 65-DL Duralast and it doesn't have a place to put the hose for the battery gases. Is this battery ok or do I need to change it out? Thanks.

Anything else that it could be, its not the battery?

The battery was changed to a ventless design, so the vent itsn't needed. I got my battery from the dealer, and they told me they changed the design. Just leave the hose unattached. No problems with the battery. I forgot that when my battery was low, this same thing happened. I need to write this kind of stuff down.

it sounds like it doesn't even turn over now - right?

could you have done something while troubleshooting the weak battery?

it sounds like it doesn't even turn over now - right?

could you have done something while troubleshooting the weak battery?

When the key is turned all of the lights on the dashboard turn off. It's possible the alarm is not letting me start the car. Does someone know where the ground wire for the alarm is? I have the stock alarm.

Thanks.

When the key is turned all of the lights on the dashboard turn off. It's possible the alarm is not letting me start the car. Does someone know where the ground wire for the alarm is? I have the stock alarm.

Thanks.

Good afternoon LS experts, any ideas on this?

Hey everyone,

I've tried unlocking the doors with the key and using the remote, but when I turn the ignition - the car acts like it will start, then shuts down and the alarm goes off. I hit the unlock button on the remote and the alarm shuts off. I can't start my car. Can someone help?
Yes, the transmission is in Park.

Thanks.
i had this very same issue...... mine was the battary, it would still ture the motor over but wouldnt start ......... lights would flash and the alarm would go off :ricesmile

Good afternoon LS experts, any ideas on this?
Start checking the connections in the charging system. Since you have a new battery, we'll presume that it's not weak, but it's still acting like a weak battery. That leads us to a loose connection to or from the battery. Make sure there's good contact between the terminals and the posts, then check the connections of the battery cables in the engine compartment. I've never traced them, so I don't know where the negative goes to ground, and I'm just guessing that the positive connects in or around the power distribution box, which is located in front of the passenger side wheel well.

Start checking the connections in the charging system. Since you have a new battery, we'll presume that it's not weak, but it's still acting like a weak battery. That leads us to a loose connection to or from the battery. Make sure there's good contact between the terminals and the posts, then check the connections of the battery cables in the engine compartment. I've never traced them, so I don't know where the negative goes to ground, and I'm just guessing that the positive connects in or around the power distribution box, which is located in front of the passenger side wheel well.

All the fuses in all 3 boxes are receiving juice, the theory now is the security alarm ground wire has come loose and the car won't start b/c of it. I got my LS towed (on a flatbed) to a mechanic today. I'll let everyone know the results. Thanks for everyone's input! :Beer

All the fuses in all 3 boxes are receiving juice, the theory now is the security alarm ground wire has come loose and the car won't start b/c of it. I got my LS towed (on a flatbed) to a mechanic today. I'll let everyone know the results. Thanks for everyone's input! :Beer

I got the results from Gateway Ford in Kissimmee, the computer for the alarm needs to be replaced. It is going to cost just under $200 for the diagnostic, part, and labor.

no warranty on it?

no warranty on it?

I bought it used at 67k miles and didn't have the cash for an extended warranty.

I picked up my car yesterday and had no problems, today I listened to the car radio for ten minutes while cleaning the inside of my car (b/c of the grease the mechanics leave behind), then I go to start my car so I don't wear down the battery and the same thing happens again!!!!

The engine tried to crank then shut off and the horn starting blaring. The MF'ing dealership I was recommended to is closed on the weekends (sonovabit). So I'm w/out a car again. I do have a 12 mth warranty on the work though. I hope the problem is only a weak battery, but the WTF was wrong with it before when I had this same thing happening - and why is it happening again?

Acura here I come! (j/k, i'm not giving up on the LS yet)