My car lately has started to ping at low rpm and with low load. But it also pings a bit when I do a brake stand and put a slight load on the car. I always us 91 octane. The car also consumes much more gas. Does anyone have any suggestions for this problem

Thanks

Mine just went through this a couple of weeks ago...

First they (Dealership) said it needed the carbon cleaned out of the intake system and a fuel injection flush. When they were wrong about that, it turned out to be a bad MAF sensor. New MAF and all is better now.

How much was it for a new MAF sensor. Did the injector flush do anything and can I do a injector flush myself as i need to do it anyway

Thanks

Mine just went through this a couple of weeks ago...

First they (Dealership) said it needed the carbon cleaned out of the intake system and a fuel injection flush. When they were wrong about that, it turned out to be a bad MAF sensor. New MAF and all is better now.

Has this happened with fuel from different vendors? I would make sure you don't have a bad tank of gas. Next, if that's not the case, I would think Tyler is on the right track. I would doubt it's injectors if you're not having hard start problems.

To answer the first question...

The MAF was covered under factory warranty.
The Injector cleaning and carbon cleaning was considered maintanence so it cost $400

The injection cleaning and carbon cleaning did minimal if anything at all.

The Second Question...

I use Texaco Premium in the car and had 1/4 of a tank when I first noticed. After I burned it off, I filled at me normal station and still had the issue. I then filled at a local Chevron and still no difference. Once the injection system and intake system was clean, I went back to Chevron and noticed it later that afternoon.

I had no hard start problems, nor did I seem to be lacking power on more than 1/2 throttle. But anything under 1/2 throttle and I could hear the detonation.

Try a bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner with your freshly new tank of gas. You will notice a difference quickly.

I think you have a serious problem that needs to be addressed. Since it's under warranty, get it to a dealer and have them find out what's going on there. It could be something as simple as a knock sensor, but if you're buying good gas, the knock sensor really shouldn't be coming into play that often. If the knock sensor is working, that means you are getting detonation AFTER it's pulled all the timing it could! I would want to get that thing hooked up to a NGS tester and see just what in the world is going on.

Also, any type of contamination in the combustion chamber can cause it (antifreeze, oil, etc.)

Detonation is a very, very bad thing....

Thanks guys I found out what it was. I changed the plugs and it no longer pings and the car no longer has any sounds. I have now realized that no one should listen to the crap about plugs lating over 100K. The plugs should be changed often as nothing will last that long

I think you have a serious problem that needs to be addressed. Since it's under warranty, get it to a dealer and have them find out what's going on there. It could be something as simple as a knock sensor, but if you're buying good gas, the knock sensor really shouldn't be coming into play that often. If the knock sensor is working, that means you are getting detonation AFTER it's pulled all the timing it could! I would want to get that thing hooked up to a NGS tester and see just what in the world is going on.

Also, any type of contamination in the combustion chamber can cause it (antifreeze, oil, etc.)

Detonation is a very, very bad thing....

Thanks guys I found out what it was. I changed the plugs and it no longer pings and the car no longer has any sounds. I have now realized that no one should listen to the crap about plugs lating over 100K. The plugs should be changed often as nothing will last that long

Plugs DO last for a long, long time in these cars. If the plugs fixed it, I would sure like to look at the old ones. Were there any deposits on them that could cause hot spots? That seems likely to me. Then I would want to know where the deposits came from.

Then, exactly what plug came out of it? Have they been replaced before and someone got the wrong plug and heat range in it? I'm glad you found the problem, but I would sure like to know WHY the plugs were causing it. It just doesn't make sense to me.

I was wrong guys. The new plugs got rid of a slight ticking sound and most of the low end pinging. But at very light load and RPM it pings very slightly. Once you give it some gas it goes away. Has anyone got any ideas as to what it may be. Should I change the MAF sensor

Thanks

Plugs DO last for a long, long time in these cars. If the plugs fixed it, I would sure like to look at the old ones. Were there any deposits on them that could cause hot spots? That seems likely to me. Then I would want to know where the deposits came from.

Then, exactly what plug came out of it? Have they been replaced before and someone got the wrong plug and heat range in it? I'm glad you found the problem, but I would sure like to know WHY the plugs were causing it. It just doesn't make sense to me.

are you getting a cel?when the maf goes bad it leans out the engine causing a lean spark knock/ping.if you replace the maf dont forget to disconnect the battery to reset the computer.also check for a resticted fuel filter

I had the same problem. I always used the guarenteed gas at QT. My 2000 LS started pinging and then it got worse. I put in STP injector cleaner on a full tank and gunned it on the highway. That helped somewhat. When the car wouldn't start I took it to the dealer (they found that the starting relay was going bad) It wasn't covered on the warrenty, not mechanical. (I was driving the free rental) so I told him about the pinging and they did a carb and injector flush. (that way I didn't have to pay for the rental) The flush worked...no ping at all. I have 64000 mi. on the car.

Last week I was in a 5 car accident on the highway pile up. I stopped, the others behind me didn't. I was really surprised that there was minimal damage to the rear bumper. (estimated at $987.00). The other guys insurance tried to give me the bussiness of I hit the car infront of me 1st. I told her that I was pushed into the car infront. The only thing that was damaged in front was the licence plate frame. (they are going to replace that also) :) OH btw the person I was pushed into drove off without looking at their car. One of the other drivers behind :soapbox: didn't have insurance. I feel bad, but hey!!!!! I pay out the ass for insurance, I expect others to have it too and if you hit my car YOUR going to pay!!!! :L

...snip...also check for a resticted fuel filter

Damn Tech! I didn't even think of that! I'll bet you are on to something there. It wouldn't surprise me if that is the whole problem! It's a 2000...it may have never been changed.

On an '01 V8, the filter is located behind the front driver's side wheel well. You have to remove...or reposition...the plastic inner fender to get to it. (it's in the rear portion of the front wheel well if that makes sense) It's easy to do this and you don't even have to take the wheel off if you don't mind working around it. If it has never been changed, I'll bet you can't even blow through it.

I'm not sure if the V6 location is different or not...but I'll bet it's not.

No I am not getting a check engine light. I hear that the O2 Sensor will degrade not be as efficient after a while even if it has no engine code that is displayed. But I never thought about changing the fuel filter. it only does it at light load and very low RPM

Thanks

are you getting a cel?when the maf goes bad it leans out the engine causing a lean spark knock/ping.if you replace the maf dont forget to disconnect the battery to reset the computer.also check for a resticted fuel filter

Well...

My ping came back as well. Back to the Stealership.

The part that angers me is that every time I take it back, they make me take one of their techs out on a drive to prove it is pinging. I have had the same tech in the car 2 times already to drive him aroung so he can hear it. Why should I have to prove it again? Just take the god damn thing and fix it the right way this time.

Are you talking about the MAF sensor or the fuel filter as you said the front drivers side and not the rear which is where the fuel filter is. Can someone tell me or better yet instrcutions with pictures on how to change the fuel filter. It looks tough to get at.

Damn Tech! I didn't even think of that! I'll bet you are on to something there. It wouldn't surprise me if that is the whole problem! It's a 2000...it may have never been changed.

On an '01 V8, the filter is located behind the front driver's side wheel well. You have to remove...or reposition...the plastic inner fender to get to it. (it's in the rear portion of the front wheel well if that makes sense) It's easy to do this and you don't even have to take the wheel off if you don't mind working around it. If it has never been changed, I'll bet you can't even blow through it.

I'm not sure if the V6 location is different or not...but I'll bet it's not.

"On an '01 V8, the filter is located behind the front driver's side wheel well. You have to remove...or reposition...the plastic inner fender to get to it. (it's in the rear portion of the front wheel well if that makes sense)"

It's in the LF wheel well...behind the inner fender liner...behind the LF tire. Pull the inner fender liner out...just plastic fastners and one screw if I recall....and the filter is right there.

Let me get this straight. The fuel filter is behind the left Driver side inner fender. I have put my car on a hoist and i see a filter close to the REAR drivers side wheel. Please clarify this for me

Thanks

"On an '01 V8, the filter is located behind the front driver's side wheel well. You have to remove...or reposition...the plastic inner fender to get to it. (it's in the rear portion of the front wheel well if that makes sense)"

It's in the LF wheel well...behind the inner fender liner...behind the LF tire. Pull the inner fender liner out...just plastic fastners and one screw if I recall....and the filter is right there.

You might want to check the coil packs too.

I read some of the other posts and they say that the coil pack should go on very snugb to the spark plug. When I changed the spark plugs last week i noticed a few of the plugs were covered in oil. Would that cause my slight pinging problem and low load and RPM. I also would like to know where is the fuel filter. Is it in the rear driver side wheel well and what is the easiest way to get to it and change it

Thanks

You might want to check the coil packs too.

Let's see if I can make this work...

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Relieve the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
Raise the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the left front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the left wheel well splash shield screws and pin-type fasteners.

Disconnect the fuel line R-clip fittings.

Remove the bolt at the fuel filter (9155) bracket and remove the filter.

If necessary, separate the filter from the bracket for reuse.
NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

The pictures didn't copy, but the text did. Again, the filter is behind the splash shield that is behind the LF wheel...but still inside the wheel well. It's not hard to move.

I appreciate your help on this. But I also see a fuel filter in fron of the rear drivers side wheel. My car is a 2000LS. Are their two filters on my car.

Let's see if I can make this work...

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Relieve the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
Raise the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the left front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the left wheel well splash shield screws and pin-type fasteners.

Disconnect the fuel line R-clip fittings.

Remove the bolt at the fuel filter (9155) bracket and remove the filter.

If necessary, separate the filter from the bracket for reuse.
NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

The pictures didn't copy, but the text did. Again, the filter is behind the splash shield that is behind the LF wheel...but still inside the wheel well. It's not hard to move.