I am new to Lincoln but recently purchased a 1990 LSC Mark VII. It is black on black, 82000 original miles and was taken very good care of by the previous owner. My question is, Does any of the Phord Mustwang stuff fit the Lincoln? It is a very comfortable car, but to me, lacks power. Maybe I am just too used to my Mopar.

What kind of Mopar power are you used to? A 90' Mark VII should be pretty quick. Many Mustang parts will fit on a Mark VII, but a Mark VII doesn't have mass air. The Mark VII uses the same basic drivetrain as a Mustang (5.0 HO), and AOD, but its a little heavier and not as responsive to mods.

I am new to Lincoln but recently purchased a 1990 LSC Mark VII. It is black on black, 82000 original miles and was taken very good care of by the previous owner. My question is, Does any of the Phord Mustwang stuff fit the Lincoln? It is a very comfortable car, but to me, lacks power. Maybe I am just too used to my Mopar.

The best bang for the buck is gears. Put in at a minimum 3.55 gears. I personally would go with 3.73 gears, then go from there. You are not mentioning a budget, so try this route:

1) gears - 3.55 or 3.73
2) exhaust - 2.5inch, with better mufflers
3) Stall Converter
4) Cobra Intake
5) GT-40 or AFR Heads
6) CAI

if going to mass air..
6) Supercharger

BMN

What kind of Mopar power are you used to? A 90' Mark VII should be pretty quick. Many Mustang parts will fit on a Mark VII, but a Mark VII doesn't have mass air. The Mark VII uses the same basic drivetrain as a Mustang (5.0 HO), and AOD, but its a little heavier and not as responsive to mods.
My old Dodge Challenger runs 10.80's @128mph. What is the difference between "mass air" and whatever it is that I have. Forgive the stupid questions, I'm an old carb guy. I've thought about injection for my dodge but just don't understand everything about it yet. Will the cold air kits and Mustang headers fit? The headers on this car look barely big eneough to suck a milk shake through. I don't know how the car is pushing air through those. Thanks in advance.

With Mass Air the computer adjusts by measuring how much air is going into the engine. It will adjust to modifications like intake, heads, and cams.

Mark VII's came with Speed Density in which the computer is programmed to run with set specifications. Basically the computer doesn't compensate for big mods. If you install a different cam the speed density computer doesn't know so you won't get all the performance that you could using mass air where the computer will adjust air/fuel ratios.

I hope this helps you out.

Cold air and mustang shorty's bolt up.

Equal-length shortys fit with little modification

Full length fit with modification.

T5s fit too :D

Where abouts in KS you live......depending on how new you are to the LSC, we might have looked at the same car before you purchased it.....Blk/Blk is very hard to find in the midwest.

Cold air and mustang shorty's bolt up.

Equal-length shortys fit with little modification

Full length fit with modification.

What mods need to be done to get equal lenth headers to fit?

Equal shorties- Jack up one side of the motor, pry the steering knuckle back like a 1/32" inch, no biggie, new/good motor mounts are ideal, as the headers DONT want to lay on the body, think thats it.

T5s fit too :D

So do tremecs! :wrench

The best bang for the buck is gears. Put in at a minimum 3.55 gears. I personally would go with 3.73 gears, then go from there. You are not mentioning a budget, so try this route:

1) gears - 3.55 or 3.73
2) exhaust - 2.5inch, with better mufflers
3) Stall Converter
4) Cobra Intake
5) GT-40 or AFR Heads
6) CAI

if going to mass air..
6) Supercharger

BMN


I've got about the same car...mine's an '89 and was put together by Jack Roush from a build list they had for the 11 "works" cars they put together for Ford. At the time, Ford wanted to see if this could be a platform they could use to bring out a competitor to BMW, but decided against it. Mine was #12. I noticed as they were working on it that they gutted the interior and the build list had a couple of specially fabricated parts, but as was stated, most Mustnag stuff fits. The engine in mine eventually was chaged to a '93 mass air and they put GT-40 pieces in it. The T-5 works perfectly and I too get a kick out of the looks I get at the stop light in the summer when I snick it into first gear. More then one pimply-faced teenager in his jacked-up Camaro got the suprise of his life when the old man next to him bathed him in blue tire smoke. I notice you have 3.73 gears in yours. I tried that, but had to go back to 3.55 because of the severe drive line vibration at around 83 MPH. Roush tried everything from a perfectly balanced new drive shaft, replacing the tranny, replacing the clutch (even a CenterForce unit was tried). When the engine damper was replaced, the vibration when way down, but it's still there. Any ideas?

I'm also looking for the side door window seals (I think the parts at the local dealership called them "beltline trim" or something like that) and the right side exhaust hanger (its gotten "lazy" and now and then the pipe hits the axle on hard bumps).

I'm thinking of a Kenne Bell supercharger. I've seen a neat installation on a 5.0L that was installed in a Mazda Miata. Looked very sharp.
Scott

I've got about the same car...mine's an '89 and was put together by Jack Roush from a build list they had for the 11 "works" cars they put together for Ford. At the time, Ford wanted to see if this could be a platform they could use to bring out a competitor to BMW, but decided against it. Mine was #12. I noticed as they were working on it that they gutted the interior and the build list had a couple of specially fabricated parts, but as was stated, most Mustnag stuff fits. The engine in mine eventually was chaged to a '93 mass air and they put GT-40 pieces in it. The T-5 works perfectly and I too get a kick out of the looks I get at the stop light in the summer when I snick it into first gear. More then one pimply-faced teenager in his jacked-up Camaro got the suprise of his life when the old man next to him bathed him in blue tire smoke. I notice you have 3.73 gears in yours. I tried that, but had to go back to 3.55 because of the severe drive line vibration at around 83 MPH. Roush tried everything from a perfectly balanced new drive shaft, replacing the tranny, replacing the clutch (even a CenterForce unit was tried). When the engine damper was replaced, the vibration when way down, but it's still there. Any ideas? I'm also looking for the side door window seals (I think the parts at the local dealership called them "beltline trim" or something like that) and the right side exhaust hanger (its gotten "lazy" and now and then the pipe hits the axle on hard bumps).
I'm thinking of a Kenne Bell supercharger. I've seen a neat installation on a 5.0L that was installed in a Mazda Miata. Looked very sharp. Scott

Scott,

The vibration is caused due to the pinion angle on the the rear control arms. I purchased one of the last sets from SVPU, which were actually made by Kenny Brown. I actually purchased the whole suspension control arms from SVPU..what a world of difference.

I am not sure what you are referring too with the "beltline trim", but if it is weatherstripping on the upper portion of the doors, then yes, those the one of the infamous parts to ruin the exterior of the Mark VII.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/411000-411999/411342_71_full.jpg

I purchased a newly created set, from Batman1991 on Ebay. They go for $300 a pair..well worth it in my opinion. In NY they were $400 each at the dealer.

I know what you mean regarding the stop lights...with the 400+ rwhp I have in the BMNLSC, I love smoking those unsuspecting kids in their alleged hotrods...

BMN

Scott,

The vibration is caused due to the pinion angle on the the rear control arms. I purchased one of the last sets from SVPU, which were actually made by Kenny Brown. I actually purchased the whole suspension control arms from SVPU..what a world of difference.

I am not sure what you are referring too with the "beltline trim", but if it is weatherstripping on the upper portion of the doors, then yes, those the one of the infamous parts to ruin the exterior of the Mark VII.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/411000-411999/411342_71_full.jpg

I purchased a newly created set, from Batman1991 on Ebay. They go for $300 a pair..well worth it in my opinion. In NY they were $400 each at the dealer.

I know what you mean regarding the stop lights...with the 400+ rwhp I have in the BMNLSC, I love smoking those unsuspecting kids in their alleged hotrods...

BMN


Yup, that's what he called it. I take it the items you found were more than just the rubber seal, for that price. I only want the rubber that presses against the side glass to keep the water from dripping down into the door. With the windows rolled down, the old rubber has gotten hard and brittle and has chunks have come off, making it look nasty. $300-400 for a couple of pieces of "window squeegee" seems a tad high.
Thanks for control arm info. I'm on a misson now.
Scott

Yup, that's what he called it. I take it the items you found were more than just the rubber seal, for that price. I only want the rubber that presses against the side glass to keep the water from dripping down into the door. With the windows rolled down, the old rubber has gotten hard and brittle and has chunks have come off, making it look nasty. $300-400 for a couple of pieces of "window squeegee" seems a tad high.
Thanks for control arm info. I'm on a misson now.
Scott
There are less expensive parts for just about any application but what BMN is pointing to is thebest product for your buck.

If you live in a sunny state, like most of us do, and you plan on keepint this car for another 100,000 miles, then don't skimp on this rubber product. The last one worked great for 13 or more years. Why not replace it with an equal or greater quality product and get the same if not better results.

John "Spending-Your-Hard-Earned-Dollars" Dancy

Hey Scott,
Sounds like a damn nice ride you got there. Can you post pics? Or maybe I can stop by and see it sometime. turfscape(at)charter.net
Mike McDade

Does anyone recomend any specific brand of header. Will it make that much of a difference. I'm not wanting a race car, I have one of those. I just want a little better performance and economy. Thanks in advance. :waving:

Does anyone recomend any specific brand of header. Will it make that much of a difference. I'm not wanting a race car, I have one of those. I just want a little better performance and economy. Thanks in advance. :waving:

It seems from what I've read that most recommend the "shorty" type for ease of install, but the best performance are the "long" ones. I've got long ones on mine and the performance is great, though I've still got a rev limiter issue that I need to deal with yet (4300 RPM!).

I preffer a shortie with full flange......not the individual bolt up collector style like MAC or BBK....I am running Headman 5.0 headers and they have one peice of steel connecting each head - less warp. Not that the other are bad, but once they are used and taken off, they warp all kinds of directions and it really makes them hard as :q:q:q:q to put them back on.