So I bought this 95 LSC about two months ago. Runs great except for taking quite a few cranks to start. Battery, plugs, fuel filter, all good. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and while running it's at about 30psig. I pulled off the vac line from the FPR and it went up to about 40psig. I left the car running for a bit and when I shut it down, the pressure immediately dropped.

So here's my dilemma. I decided to change out the FPR, so I ordered one from Carquest for a 95 LSC. When I took it out of the box it did not look like the one that was on my car. The one on my car was a 3-bolt and the one they claimed was for my 95 was a 2-bolt. I called 5 star ford in Scotts, AZ and they gave me the same info. So I read the part #F2LE-9C968-EA off of my FPR and it's showing it's off a town car possibly. The guy at Carquest ran the # and said it cross referenced to Chrysler or Dodge. WTF?!!

It's a 3-bolt triangle shaped FPR. Were there any Mark VIII earlier models that had the 3-bolt? Is there a possibility they put a 94 engine in at the factory?

Thanks,
Matt

Dont know, didnt know Mark fuel rails had any bolts on the FPRs :lol: Never looked closly though I guess.

Anyway your problem is prolly the check valve in the sending unit. <y car took a couple seconds to strat when it sat for a bit too and after swaping the pump and cleaning some gunk off the valve it worked great.

It was KK that pointed me that way, smart kid. :)

I was told it was probably the check valve in the fuel pressure regulator since it's not holding any pressure at all after shutdown. I'm sure there's a chance it could be both FPR and Fuel Pump check valves, but I just wanted to change out the easier and cheaper one first. Now I have to figure out why my 95 is different? What engine characteristics would instantly tell me what year it could possibly be? I know for a fact it's a 95LSC car because of the VIN, but if that FPR is 3-bolt and the 95 is supposed to be a 2??

I just looked at one I had in the trash off a 94, its two bolts. Dont think they changed those between 94 and 95. Take a picture of the whole rail, ill see if I can figure out what its off of.

Dont know, didnt know Mark fuel rails had any bolts on the FPRs :lol: Never looked closly though I guess.

Anyway your problem is prolly the check valve in the sending unit. <y car took a couple seconds to strat when it sat for a bit too and after swaping the pump and cleaning some gunk off the valve it worked great.

It was KK that pointed me that way, smart kid. :)

That may be the answer to mine as well, the basket that came with the fuel pump I had bought looked like sh!t. Thanks for passing that along:D. You didn't happen to take a pic, did you?

Sorry some of the pics are a bit blurry

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Hmm. That rail looks different then the 93 and 94 and also (as expected) is way different from the second gens.


You are missing your alternator bracket. Thats not good as the two feet are not enough to hold that thing still. Nail the throttle and I bet the alt leans foreword a few mm.

well he was kinda right, there is no check valve in the FPR, but there is one on the pump that fails, try this easy test turn the key to on (not crank, just on) cycle it a few times and then crank, i bet it will start right up. buy a fuel pump and quit messing with the fpr

Hmm I could've swore I read that both the FPR and Fuel Pump both have check valves?? What do you guys recommend I buy for a fuel pump replacement?

This is my first Mark, so I didn't even know the alt bracket was missing. I guess I better get one eh?

I had somebody at the dealership run my VIN and it's showing the build date as July 1995, so he said that it wouldn't have had a 94 engine installed in it, unless it was around Jan or Feb.

So is it just the fuel rail that looks different, or is there anything else you guys notice?

Thanks

Actually I tried the priming the pump trick and it still took about seven cranks to start. What fuel pump does everybody recommend?

So I thought I read that there was a check valve in the FPR? Thanks for your input fellas.

Get an alternator bracket.

Actually I tried the priming the pump trick and it still took about seven cranks to start. What fuel pump does everybody recommend?

So I thought I read that there was a check valve in the FPR? Thanks for your input fellas.

SVT Focus pump. Direct swap out, much better than stock.

What year or years for pump? Isn't the wiring different? What about a Walbro that many postings talk about?

Alt bracket on my list of things to add. Thanks.

If you want to pay shipping I've got an extra alt bracet you can have

the fuel pump is very easy to swap out, and there's plenty of write ups on here about how to do it

SVT Focus pump. Dont need to specify year. I have a Walbro but apparently its from something else as mine dropped right in, others say the Walbro dont in our cars. Meh. I plan on pulling mine in the spring and putting a Focus pump in instead.

If you want to pay shipping I've got an extra alt bracet you can have

the fuel pump is very easy to swap out, and there's plenty of write ups on here about how to do it

I'll take it! Just let me know where I have to send the $. I have a PayPal account.

I don't have paypal, you can snail mail me a MO if ya want ...pm sent

how can you be running without an alt bracket???

how can you be running without an alt bracket???

Take it off, fail to replace :rolleyes:

how can you be running without an alt bracket???

It's not like I knew it was missing and continued to drive it. Usually I'm pretty good with details. I bought the car with a high idle and paid more attention to changing the IACV. After that I did mostly suspension, coils, UCA's, LCA's, etc. I'm just glad I took that picture and LaserSVT noticed it, or who knows how long I would've been driving without that bracket.

Sapp if you have some extra bolts for it, he may need them as well! They will be hard to find or if he does than he will probably find a bracket there as well!!! Just a little reminder!!!

What year or years for pump? Isn't the wiring different? What about a Walbro that many postings talk about?

SVT Focus pump. Direct swap out, much better than stock.

SVT Focus pump. Dont need to specify year. I have a Walbro but apparently its from something else as mine dropped right in, others say the Walbro dont in our cars. Meh. I plan on pulling mine in the spring and putting a Focus pump in instead.

He has a Gen 1, the SVT Focus pump is a Gen 2 mod.

He can use a Walbro (http://www.fuel-pumps.net/gca706hp.html).

yeah you need the walbro focus is for gen 2s

Ah, forgot about that important detail.

So I decided to take a trip out to our ecology junkyard with a friend. This place was huge and I only found two marks. I found the alt bracket on a 94, but I'm not sure it's the same. Everything lines up perfectly, except I noticed that the studs coming off the crossover tubes are taller than mine. Are the brackets different for some reason because of the LSC? If you look at my first posting about my fuel pressure reg having three bolts...well I searched around for other 4 valve engines and noticed a town car that had the same three bolt reg as mine. Now the 94 that I saw in the junkyard had a two bolt and the rail looks exactly the same as mine other than the three bolt FPR. I was considering pulling off that rail just so I have the two bolt FPR rail since they are alot easier to come by for aftermarket and the mounting bolts are on top.

Will somebody post a picture of their first gen alt bracket either on or off the car so I can see if the bracket is different. I have a pic of mine I will post on here.

Notice the stud is too short for the back bracket hole:

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here is the one from my 93, i think the one you found is for a gen2, i know Lasers was like that before it got "customized" for his blower

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j127/sapperfire/68c25fe1.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j127/sapperfire/56777a01.jpg

the studs on the rear of the bracket are longer because they are also the supports for the intake resonator, once you delete the intake you'll no longer require those long ones..

Glad you found another one, you can probably buy the one from the yard cheaper than shipping mine would be

If you look at that one pic of the bracket I laid on the alt and you will see a bolt hole in the intake...so I'm guessing the bracket I have is the wrong one. So the bracket I have mounts on a longer stud that is welded onto the bottom of the crossover tube which I can see from your picture. So I still need the extra one you have.

1st gen bolts to the intake, 2nd gen bolts to the crossover, either bracket will work

the brackets only function is to keep the alternator from rocking forward on the lower bolts that screw into the block, which is a big deal

with the revised intake on the 2nd Gen, it wont have the longer studs for supporting the intake tube, since its shaped and routed totally different

so if you plan on doing the intake resonator delete ( which you should) then a Gen2 bracket would be perfect, would look alot cleaner than the one i have

i havent fully deleted my intake resonator yet.. too much other stuff going on right now, i took the larger section off that fits to the hose on the rear of the intake, and found a gauge that fits in the hose just to act as a plug

here is the one from my 93, i think the one you found is for a gen2, i know Lasers was like that before it got "customized" for his blower

This was off a 94 mark from the JY.

-shrug- i know thats the style a 2nd gen has, why it was on a 94 i dont know, but it will still work, all the ones ive seen on 1st Gens in salvage yards are exactly like mine.

i would rather have the 2nd gen style like the one you found, as i plan on doing a 96 Cobra intake one day, and i dont believe the Cobra intake will accomodate the style bracket i have

Looks like I just need to change the studs out for longer ones.

Now I have to figure out which fuel pump to buy....

Thanks for all the help

almost looks like you have broken studs, also sapp, you need to stop spray painting and get into the powder coating business

almost looks like you have broken studs, also sapp, you need to stop spray painting and get into the powder coating business

is that youre way of telling me that youre going to buy me a powder gun and oven sweet heart?

Actually I tried the priming the pump trick and it still took about seven cranks to start. What fuel pump does everybody recommend?

So I thought I read that there was a check valve in the FPR? Thanks for your input fellas.
theres a diaphragm that fails in the fpr but your vac line would be full of gas, and you unplugging it and the psi goes from 30 to 40 shows its working, try turning the key on and counting to 3 then cranking. whats happening is the pump primes the engine for a few seconds when you first turn the key on. on yours with a bad check valve as soon as the pump shuts off the psi drops as all the fuel returns to the tank. just get the walbro DLF linked
here is the one from my 93, i think the one you found is for a gen2, i know Lasers was like that before it got "customized" for his blower

:slam: that aint for a gen2, we aint got no damn plug wires!

looks like the studs are broken or someone put them in the wrong spot, just get some longer bolts

man the wrong info is flooding this thread! think before you post people

is that youre way of telling me that youre going to buy me a powder gun and oven sweet heart?

no but if you pay shipping and powder and labor you can ship it to me and ill make it silky smooth

Can you do the titanium blue like the paint I got?? LoL
I was lucky to have enough money to buy that motor, let alone mail pieces of it all over the country..
First thing I'll be not doing myself is the headlight refurbish, I'm buying a set of Jamies as soon as I can gather some extra cash

I would like some powder coat, oh I really would, like a kmember, so, I just need to get my own equipment...

K member was no fun at all, actually it was the biggest pain in the ass, and it also took a whole pound of paint

Well it's not a standard gen 1 bracket, so it's either a revised gen2 to accomodate plug wires, or it's a conti... Factories do all kinda of car chimera-ing when some parts run short

K member was no fun at all, actually it was the biggest pain in the ass, and it also took a whole pound of paint

Hey let's see a pic of the oven you use ;-)