Hey guys I'm looking to do oil pan gasket on my 95 mark got the gasket just need some advice and pointers on what I should take off step by step easiest way possible no rush wanna do the job right thanks guys

its not bad. there used to be a link on yahoo that i had saved but its no longer there.
pull the alt
fabricate some type of eng support, just a steel bar that runs fender to fender (inner lip) and run a chain from it to the alt mounts on the front of the eng
unbolt the top of the front shocks from the body, remove air lines and solenoids from the bags
remove upper ball joints from the knuckle
unbolt steering column from the rack
remove motor mount bolts from the sub frame
look around for some ps lines and poss trans cooler lines that are held to the sub frame, but dont remove the ps lines from the rack (they will give enough room to lower the sub frame to change the pan)
remove the 8 E-18 inverted torx bolts holding the sub frame to the body, with the sub frame supported, some say a 9/16" 6 point will work too
and replace the pan/or gasket
usually its the pan itself leaking where the side can is welded on, if i was doing the gasket id throw a new~ish pan on, since ford doesn't make them anymore

http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213668&chapter=&Sectionids=10,4117&groupid=2459&subgroupid=2464&componentid=0&make=21&model=Mark%20VIII&year=1995&graphicID=KB93105&callout=6&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

It's costly but it's OEM and new.

Chicken got dat down pat! :p

its not bad. there used to be a link on yahoo that i had saved but its no longer there.
pull the alt
fabricate some type of eng support, just a steel bar that runs fender to fender (inner lip) and run a chain from it to the alt mounts on the front of the eng
unbolt the top of the front shocks from the body, remove air lines and solenoids from the bags
remove upper ball joints from the knuckle
unbolt steering column from the rack
remove motor mount bolts from the sub frame
look around for some ps lines and poss trans cooler lines that are held to the sub frame, but dont remove the ps lines from the rack (they will give enough room to lower the sub frame to change the pan)
remove the 8 E-18 inverted torx bolts holding the sub frame to the body, with the sub frame supported, some say a 9/16" 6 point will work too
and replace the pan/or gasket
usually its the pan itself leaking where the side can is welded on, if i was doing the gasket id throw a new~ish pan on, since ford doesn't make them anymore
+1
Also make sure to not pinch your abs wires up front when rasing the subframe, and to undo the ps line from the bracket attached to the rad support to. You'll need to put dabs of rtv sealant on too where the front cover and rear piece meet the block to seal it, you'll see the lines once the old pan is off and the mating surface wiped down...

http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213668&chapter=&Sectionids=10,4117&groupid=2459&subgroupid=2464&componentid=0&make=21&model=Mark%20VIII&year=1995&graphicID=KB93105&callout=6&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

It's costly but it's OEM and new.
thats not bad i think i paid 125 for a used one a couple years ago
Chicken got dat down pat! :p
ehh what can i say *brushes dirt off of shoulder*
+1
Also make sure to not pinch your abs wires up front when rasing the subframe, and to undo the ps line from the bracket attached to the rad support to. You'll need to put dabs of rtv sealant on too where the front cover and rear piece meet the block to seal it, you'll see the lines once the old pan is off and the mating surface wiped down...

yeah thats it! i wrote that list off of memory, i just undo the abs wires and let them hang way out of the way

Not that bad to do at all. When I did mine, I had read posts on forums that said it was really hard to do, and it would take all day. Mine was done in 3 hours. Only thing I did different was unbolt the struts at the bottom.

. Only thing I did different was unbolt the struts at the bottom.

yeah i pull them from the top cuz us above the rust belt, know the lower strut bolt usually rusts to the sleeve in the bushing in the lower arm and never comes out, where the 3 lil nuts on the top usually come right off

yeah i pull them from the top cuz us above the rust belt, know the lower strut bolt usually rusts to the sleeve in the bushing in the lower arm and never comes out, where the 3 lil nuts on the top usually come right off

I would have done it the same way as you, if my lower bolts and struts weren't new.

I love this site, lol

We soooo need to round up all these posts with the great tech knowledge and dump them into a sticky!

http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213668&chapter=&Sectionids=10,4117&groupid=2459&subgroupid=2464&componentid=0&make=21&model=Mark%20VIII&year=1995&graphicID=KB93105&callout=6&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

It's costly but it's OEM and new.

No longer available from Ford. :(

Does anybody know what the "can" on the side of the oil pan is for? Is it just for capacity?

Does anybody know what the "can" on the side of the oil pan is for? Is it just for capacity?

yup the dohc holds around 1.5 qt more than a sohc, and no other pan will fit.....:eek:

Do the cobra's use the same pan? I don't remember seeing it mustangs

yup the dohc holds around 1.5 qt more than a sohc, and no other pan will fit.....:eek:

Do the cobra's use the same pan? I don't remember seeing it mustangs

points up.............nope, it might bolt to the block but it aint clearin the subframe

Someone might want to look into another pan fitting, I do recall someone saying that another fit without the kickout on the side, but it does hold less oil (nothing an accumulator or oil cooler etc wouldn't fix ;) )...

a bird pan will fit but yes you will have do something for the extra oil