So today was final tune day at teh dyno! Yay! :wrench

So on my way down to the dyno shop I stopped for some lunch and to wipe the bugs off the nose of the car. I had it nosed into a stall and I was sitting on the curb happily cleaning away when all the sudden the car lurched forward and knocked me off the curb. It was running soo I thought it slipped into gear....... nope, nice big ass Suburban has her rear bumper pressed into mine. :mad:
So I jump up like a raving lunatic and scream *cleaned up for here* "Cant any of you mother f'rs drive? How many of you fuggin c-words are gonna hit my rear fuggin bumper this year? AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
I wanted to punch her in her face but she broke down into tears.
So she gets her info and I inspect the damage. Her bumper is bent and mine is....... nothing. Scuff rubbed off with my finger and there is a slight scratch but only in the clear and will buff right out. I tell her ill fix it and give me $100. She is still crying and saying how nice of a car it is and her husband is particular about his and she feels so bad and yada yada yada. She then gives me $200. Ok, cool, bye.

So on I go to Gear Heads for my tune. Takes several hours, gets run a half dozen times and Mark was there to film. Car lays down some bummer numbers. 299rwhp and 309rwtq. :( So he wants to tweak some more and I am all for it...... except when its there idling its making this faint knocking sound...... I ask "Is that rod knock?" and get a shrug from Mark (Twinbipo) and a "I don't think so" from Andy the tuner.
So we hammer on it some more and she sounds great, no hint of noise and she does her best of 316rwhp and 307rwtq. 300tq comes on at 2500 and stays flat till red-line. 14* of timing and IATs around 198* at full tilt. Shes safe and sound........ but at idle the sound is still there. :(

Here was the last run:

YouTube- 7.2psi Mark Dyno run (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL6LwdAxxWk)

We take it on a test drive and she runs prefect but when we get back and shes idling the sound is a little louder. So I drive it 2 hours home and for the most part take it easy. I WOT a few times and its seemingly faster at 316rwhp then it was at 384rwhp..... yeah, weird.
So I stop by a friends house and he says "Yo, whats wrong with your car?" and the sound is much louder. I am thinking blower just blew a bearing or something. Time for a rebuild, figures. :(
So I get home and am curious and poke around and man does it sound AWFUL!!! And it does sound like the blower. I remove the belt and start it up again and nope.... the sound is there still....... gotta be rods or bearings. :( :cry:
I am seriously screwed. I cant buy a new engine right now. I know I took a risk but who the hell has no issues at too much boost and then tunes to be safe only to break it under the safer tune? Me! Thats who!
I have a friend that always asks me if I ever think of eating a bullet. I always laugh it off. I ain't laughing now. :mad:


Heres the sound:

YouTube- Rod knock? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdpZ_JXOfFA)

Oh :q:q:q:q bro, clam down, take it easy...I'll call my dad tomorrow and I'll find you a motor, there's got to be some in Austin...we can drop you a salvage motor and just run it for a bit while we gather some internals for yours...yay a motor build..you wanted to do it anyway..just looks like sooner than financialy planned.

You know you like gettin new stuffs for the Mark in the mail anyway..it looks great for your progress thread that has so much popularity anyway..:-)
think possitive...or just go have a safety meeting

Yep, sounds like rod bearing to me. Stop running the engine, if it blows it could ruin the block. Take it apart and buy some forged internals for it.

Btw. I have a set of forged pistons for sale.

Dude, that SUCKS!!!

Honestly though, that doesn't sound like rod knock. First off it's too fast (how high is the idle?), usually the knock is in-sync with the motor rpm. Your's sounds different. Is the knock still there even if you rev it?

damn that sucks you seem to have the worst luck on here. at least the bumper was not beat up so bad. if your luckly you could fine a cheap mark moter and take the parts you need form there and swap them into yours. anyways sry to hear about this and the best of luck to u fixing it.:(

Yeah, he knows motors, he knows not to drive it....we can't rebuild if there's a hole in the block...he knows this...or at least he better

Thanks buddy. I am really beyond depressed right now. I thought for sure when I removed the belt the sound would go away cause a bearing in some accessory failed but when it didnt.......... ya know that red handled hammer on the bench? I almost "Ripped Cameled" the car. :(
And I have no money for a motor untill after the 1st anyway. THEN SVO aint returning calls and I dont have a cherry picker and my carports beam cant support a chain setup.

I feel so dumb for doing this blower. It was planned and executed when I had a job, this layoff really screws me.

I hate life.

Dude, that SUCKS!!!

Honestly though, that doesn't sound like rod knock. First off it's too fast (how high is the idle?), usually the knock is in-sync with the motor rpm. Your's sounds different. Is the knock still there even if you rev it?
Idle is around 1150. For some reason the new IAC cant command less then that even at the uber low DC its set at now. So thats a whole other issue. The sound does change in freequency with the RPM but once you hit 2000 its gone and if there is any load its gone. Cant hear it while cruising as well. Only when you come to a stop.
I need another set of ears out here but I am sure shes done for.

Since that sound started she has been driven over 200 miles and bounced off the rev limiter twice and pushed to 6500RPM more then 2 dozen times. So who knows. I am in the boonies and have no other car. If I have to go somewhere I will take it and if it goes boom then so be it. One of you will buy it and ill buy a fuggin Accord.

Yep, sounds like rod bearing to me. Stop running the engine, if it blows it could ruin the block. Take it apart and buy some forged internals for it.

Btw. I have a set of forged pistons for sale.
Hearing you say that makes me sad cause I know its the truth you speak. You have been down this road already, havent you? :(

Idle is around 1150. For some reason the new IAC cant command less then that even at the uber low DC its set at now. So thats a whole other issue. The sound does change in freequency with the RPM but once you hit 2000 its gone and if there is any load its gone. Cant hear it while cruising as well. Only when you come to a stop.
I need another set of ears out here but I am sure shes done for.

Since that sound started she has been driven over 200 miles and bounced off the rev limiter twice and pushed to 6500RPM more then 2 dozen times. So who knows. I am in the boonies and have no other car. If I have to go somewhere I will take it and if it goes boom then so be it. One of you will buy it and ill buy a fuggin Accord.

Hmm, really weird. I don't think it's a RB problem. I'd check the oil, maybe see if you have any medal in there. I think something is wrong but not a RB problem. Especially if you pushed it recently and driven those amount of miles.

Wish I could read oil pressure. I was thinking that maybe the oil pumps plastic gears were eating away.

Oil was just changed 600 miles ago, maybe less. Its still clean on the dipstick and no milkshake. Car ran at 212* all the way home too.
The car has ALWAYS had a slight clatter when first accelerating. Stock tune, new tune, tune with timing pulled WAY the freak back so I knew it was timing chain adjusters. I doubt it but I guess there is a slight chance that is what it is and the chain is slapping when unloaded and when I load the engine the chain tightens so it dont slap. But really, this is me we are talking about. I am sure its whatever is worse.

Well to really tell if it's RB's, you need to be under the car while it's running and hear if the sound is coming from in the pan.

Can you put the stock tune on and unplug the IAC motor and see if it'll idle lower? From the video is sounds like a valve train issue (like you said). It could be the timing chains stretched and when at idle/low rpm they become slack and bang around. But WOT and cruising (2k+ rpm), she's fine.

I'm really rooting for you this isn't a serious motor issue.

The IAC issue is it being a cheapo partstore one instead of OEM. I aint worried about that. I can put a restriction in its line and get the idle right or I can swap the IAC for a new OEM one which will prolly happen as I swap the motor out.

For chits and giggles I just went out there now that its cooled down and started it. Noise is there but MUCH quieter. IDK what that meens but I am sure one of you gurus can tell me.

The only other guy on this site that trumps my bad luck with their Mark VIII. Sucks man...I hope your luck gets better...

The only other guy on this site that trumps my bad luck with their Mark VIII. Sucks man...I hope your luck gets better...
Thanks for the well wishes but my luck will never get better. Its karma.

I help others, give without expecting reward, always there for a friend, am honest to a fault, hell just a couple weeks ago I changed a tire for some random old dude in the Walmart parking lot. He had to be in his late 70's and it was 99* out. Not one person stopped to..... I digress, anyway I am a dick though. Im a smart ass and piss people off. My cosmic punishment is to keep getting raped.

here is 100,000 internet dollars for your troubles, that should cover everything! and you get a date with baxxy if you are familiar with 4chan!

Bill, I just don't know what to say about your luck, seriously.... what do you say?

You need a personalized plate that says "KICK ME"

Anyway, I think your secondary chain tensioners might need replacing but it wouldn't hurt to just do all four of them (I think there's four) and don't replace the entire engine. I guess it might be one of those things where someone would have to be right there to really hear the sound. Let Sapp hear it and see what he thinks. Lose some RWHP and add to the timing and see if that helps. Blower = whine and that should be good enough. -14* on the timing might be giving a bit too much slack at idle. I think within 2 days, this noise issue will be diagnosed as something fairly simple, I hope so anyway.

The joys of modding. :p 120 xanax that I get per month wouldn't be enough for my nerves for modding. Plus I might blow up something.

Good luck, i love the look of that car. If it makes you feel better today a big wooden door swung into my bumper lol...

Sorry to hear this Laser. My green Mark engine started ticking for no reason also, I didn't have the time or money to mess with it, so I replaced it with a parts car engine. This car always had a horrible chain tensioner rattle at start up.

I'm guessing mine (and maybe yours) is tensioner related. I'm not sure if just replacing all the tensioners is worth it as the chains might need replacing also.

I'll be tearing mine apart just to find out what it is.

Laser, I really wouldn't be suprised if it is a top end problem. Take a long screwdriver or something and put your ear to the valve covers on each side. My first mark made a sound like that and it was the secondary chain tensioner. Your timing doesnt have anything to do physically with how the chains move, you are only changine spark timing. I know most know this, but got the idea that some people were thinking that the cams were physically advanced or retarded. I'm sure it has nothing at all to do with your tune. Good luck man. And I don't think its kharma, I think your a pretty cool guy, you crack jokes and screw with people but I always just kinda figured it was all in fun. Let us know what you find. Good Luck.

That sucks man... Worst case scenario save your money and find you a used low-mile cobra engine.

Then park that thing in your bedroom and never drive it again! Re-enforce your room with 1ft. thick steel in case your house falls under attack, whether it be a giant tree, or WWIII... and you're good to go!

I suppose we'll be seeing a new build thread now. Heck, if you gotta do it, make it bigger, stronger, and faster. ;)

Like said above but take a hose maybe like a water hose and listen for the niose. Just do a regular check- oil/metal-compression/make sure all 8 are running. Idle u can turn the idle manually/ there should be a set screw if u don't mind doing that for the mean time. Dam bro dam the luck. Atleast ur lucks better then the one legged man going to buy some air jordans. U can find a used motor for cheap or a cobra block.

Sucks man....big time.

You got 15 big ones?

If I only had the cash (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/1829285116.html)

A steal I'm thinkin

Thanks for the well wishes but my luck will never get better. Its karma.

I help others, give without expecting reward, always there for a friend, am honest to a fault, hell just a couple weeks ago I changed a tire for some random old dude in the Walmart parking lot. He had to be in his late 70's and it was 99* out. Not one person stopped to..... I digress, anyway I am a dick though. Im a smart ass and piss people off.

I hear ya brother...that's why I unleashed on the valve cover. First time in 10 years I broke something out of anger. $8,000 into this car in one year and it still isn't running right...in fact it runs way worse than when I bought it.

Just try to keep your head up because negativity begets negativity and vise versa. So try to be positive to attract more positivity. Hang in there

fukk laser, i agree with nolimit you need a kick me plate, or maybe fukk me. man if it wasnt for bad luck youd have no luck at all

Just try to keep your head up because negativity begets negativity and vise versa. So try to be positive to attract more positivity. Hang in there

YouTube- Kelly's Heroes Oddball - Negative Waves (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuStsFW4EmQ&feature=PlayList&p=6F9472634975F1F6&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=27)

YouTube- Sound? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWMsfYp4JsI)

FWIW, id been yanking that timing cover off it definetly doesnt sound like a rod knock it sounds like one of your chain guides broke or screwed right off...i mean for just labour that cover needs to come off to verify...i mean for a couple hours of work...hell i would already be in there if it was mine car...also...the tensioner could be hating you as well

secondary chain tensioner is what I'm hearing "through laptop speakers"

I said this way up above and even Dan and someone else thinks that's it.

If I had the loot and that is the noise, I would invest in some new chains, good tensioners and swap them all.

There was a pic posted some time ago of a top end timing component component (looked like a sprocket) that they said always breaks when these engines are supercharged because they are made of powdered metal. This one was split in half. Anyone happen to know what I am talking about? Supercharged older Cobras seem to suffer the same problem from what I remember about the thread.

Even if it is tensioners the motor has to come out. Cant remove the valve covers without lifting or dropping the engine and then there is no way for ME to realign it all when its back in. So basicly I need a donar motor and then take mine and slowly build it up.

As long as you don't go ripped camel on your valve covers, they can come out... Tensioners may seem like a lot of work, and I suppose it may be. But someone that is experienced with mod motors wouldnt have any problem doing them. I'm sure if you can work out for SVO to work on your car, he'd probably be able to diag and repair it blindfolded and one arm behind his back. Don't worry yet man, if it is tensioners your lucky, and the motor does not need to come out... And also... if you have a engine cradle thingy to hold your motor from the top, you may be albe to replace the rod bearings and get a lot more life out of the engine while you are lining something else up...

Oh yeah, I took the oil fill cap off and started it as thats the only way I have of seeing if oil is pumping. It is. Its smooth and flowing and no metal chunks. I drained about a quart and didnt see any metal shavings as well.
Taking a long screw driver and setting it on various parts it was loudest against the timing cover. When against the valley it was quieter and towards the rear of the motor it was quiet. But when I put the driver on any of the covers studs or bolts I could hear a sliding slap noise.

YouTube- IMGP1572.AVI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoe2ePscR00)

Yea buddy that's valvetrain noise. Weather it be a old tensioner, broken guide or whatever. The problem is under the timing cover. I'd be pulling the front of the motor apart right now if I was you.

ya sounds like a guide broke and the chain is slapping on some stuff under thar

+1




pull the timing cover......and dont run it anymore youll end up breaking more stuff :p

definetly timing chain, take it apart, inspect replace...dont waste money on a donor motor

bill you can get the valve covers off with the engine in the car easily. i would get the valve covers off, and take the timing cover off before you go any further with the car, its either behind the timing cover, or its a rocker arm, collapsed lifter, it could be many things, a rod knock, no way not that sound thats valve train noise. sorry to hear this dude, you need to get rid of everything and just ride an old huffy.

Anywho I will try and address everything.

Following the tuners advice I disconnected each coil one by one to see if the knocking at least changed tone or got quieter so that I could see if it was a rod bearing. Well there was no change. He said it cant be the secondary tensioner cause the car would not run. I have a close friend that says different so I am torn, I really trust my friend.
More then likely its the front tensioners. So now I have to debate if I want to go through the hassel to check them or just buy a JY motor. The way the engine sits in the Mark it has to come out to change the tensioners cause of valve cover and oil pan interference. So really the cost and time is about the same and then I can keep this motor and slowly build it up over the next year or so.
In any case its down now and I am searching for a sub $1000 beater and the Mark will have to sit for a few months.

Tis what tit tis.



Jamie, could you maybe call or PM me on some pointers on properly positioning the motor to pull the VCs without breaking them?

Don't call jamie, call ripped camel :D

Dude... i would consider myself lucky if it were a valve train issue...

its NOT that hard, just time consuming.

And the car will run just fine without the secondary tensioner pumped up, but it can cause your valve timing to be off...

i hd that same issue in my first tbird and i didnt have any idea how to fix it check that out first bill and go from there but rebuild her she will b ALOT better man and the best of wish and luck..... damn god will make a way man just be paitent and believe
secondary chain tensioner is what I'm hearing "through laptop speakers"

I said this way up above and even Dan and someone else thinks that's it.

If I had the loot and that is the noise, I would invest in some new chains, good tensioners and swap them all.

The way the engine sits in the Mark it has to come out to change the tensioners cause of valve cover and oil pan interference. So really the cost and time is about the same and then I can keep this motor and slowly build it up over the next year or so.


Not true. All you have to do is tilt the motor (one side at a time, removing the motor mount through bolt) to get the covers off, and there's plenty of room to work in front to get the timing cover off if you need to.

Not true. All you have to do is tilt the motor (one side at a time, removing the motor mount through bolt) to get the covers off, and there's plenty of room to work in front to get the timing cover off if you need to.

Yup, I have witnessed it first hand. Mike (94M5) swapped timing covers on his car, with the engine in the car. He did it in a couple hours. He didn't have to pull the covers though, just removed the front bolts to pop it out.

I Listened to it on my phone the first time, sounded like lifters...but my speakers really suck...I listened to it on my computer at work and it sounds like the timing tentioner on those speakers...I really need to hear it in person, but I don't have engh $ for gas to drive to your house...gonna have to hit up one of my hoes for some cash....lol

the first thing i would check is the harmonic balancer bolt, if it is loose it will make a clacking sound. I dont know if you changed it for a different pulley when you went with the blower. Its worth a check though.

the first thing i would check is the harmonic balancer bolt, if it is loose it will make a clacking sound. I dont know if you changed it for a different pulley when you went with the blower. Its worth a check though.
Just checked it. Its good.

I just really thuroughly listened to the car and the sound is definatly coming from the drivers side chain. Righ on the cover there its bt far the loudest and muffled everywhere else.

the first thing i would check is the harmonic balancer bolt, if it is loose it will make a clacking sound. I dont know if you changed it for a different pulley when you went with the blower. Its worth a check though.

He very recently put on a new crank pulley

My new underdrive SFI crank pulley showed up!

I don't know about you Bill, but there isn't a chance in hell I would throw a junkyard engine in under a supercharger. Your best bet is to get some help over there and get your engine fixed, then get a beater. I have a feeling you will be relieved when everything is apart.

i removed and replaced both the valve covers on my 98 lsc without touching either motor mount, the pass side came right off after i removed the throttle body, the driverside came right off after i remove the master cylinder from the booster and moved it out of the way, i never lifted or tilted anything about the motor. bill, i have a short block, with rotating assembly in still and heads on it, no oil pain or electronics or intake, the motor ran mint, no noises, no problems, i drove the car back personally 38 miles, the problem the car had was a smoked trans, its the 97 shell that is still in my shop, i wanted to keep the motor whole but too many people wanted too many money makers off of it so i parted it out. its on my engine stand right now, i'd sell it to you dirt cheap, but shipping might blow.

Found a 97 mark viii for 1350. Try some car auctions for a cheap DD

I listened to it on my iPhone...

Couple things to consider...
1) the crank gear is a TWO piece which has been known to break the crank key. Ford updated this later on to a SINGLE piece to help distribute the load.
2) the secondary chain system on a mark viii IS NOT keyed, as in it relies on the pressure of the cam bolt to hold the sprokets in place.
3) you can get at least the timing cover off. Just undo the valve cover bolts, then the timing cover bolts, and the power steering pump, and don't forget the 4 oil pan to timing cover bolts. Then carefully remove the timing cover, TAKE YOUR TIME. Be sure not to pull the valve cover gaskets out with it, just tuck them back up into the valve covers.


This info at least can get you started. You can check the primary tensioners and the crank key before signing off on the engine.

I really need to make an video showing common failure points on theses cars and what to do to remedy these problems.

you'll have to remove the ac compressor and the water pump too or you aint getting the timing cover off.

It's already "broke" ...

tear it apart and find out why. It will build character. ;)

Don't call jamie, call ripped camel :D

Dude... i would consider myself lucky if it were a valve train issue...

its NOT that hard, just time consuming.

And the car will run just fine without the secondary tensioner pumped up, but it can cause your valve timing to be off...

$50 for the hammer if you want it :D I added a ten dollar premium to it's original cost because it now has novelty value ;)

The pump can stay on...... Only need to pull the pulley off. As far as you guys tilting the engine, I have no idea why you NEED to go thy far. Seperate the master from the booster, and there is plenty of room.

sorry, old cell pic i found........water pump stays on, a/c comp you just need to get the bolts a little loose, p/s pump; remove bolts and let it hang there........

you can remove the timing cover without taking the valve covers off, but putting it back on with covers on is not fun, so just take them out and put new gaskets on them............

Meh, I just loosened the cam cover bolts and used a pry bar to slide it out.

When I put it back in I ran a bead of black silicone in the four corners and slid it back in. No oil leaks after 3 weeks of dd duty.

hay michael you could have used some expanding foamm a.

Hey guys, thanks for all the encouragement and help! You all really rock and come to help in time of need. I am impressed! I have decided to tear her down on Sunday with Sapperfires help. I will keep the covers on and leave the water pump on. Ill drop the power steering pump and AC comp and also remove the radiator which has to come out anyway cause my impact gun is too big.

I found all the tensioner and guides at Rock auto for well under $200 to do both sides. I am hopeful this is the problem. I will also order a new timing cover gasket set and VC set.

Thanks again everyone!!!

my impact gun is too big.



Thats what she said...
Edited for her pleasure...

There were alot of words and terms I am not familar with used in this thread.... Fahk I need to learn more about cars :(

Laser - best of luck to you man - your car made me fall in love with the Mark all over again - i'd only seen them stock on those ugly ass rims and it always kept me away, but on the Saleens.. well... *drool*

You rock man! Good luck!!

Bill has a supercharger on his car so there is a lot of terminology that none of us have on our cars at all!

:lol:

OK, my Droid takes much better video and audio so here is where you can clearly hear where its coming from. I am feeling really confidant that the guide is worn and I will have to just get new guides and tensioners. I will do both sides. Seen some tricks and watched Jamie do some stuff. I will zip-tie the chain against itself to not skip any teeth then swap out the parts. I have to find that one writeup that shows how to use a pin to retain the tensioner for the install. If anyone knows of any tricks then please dont hole em in. :)

YouTube- Droid cam chain tensioner rattle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-uTHulrVuw)

Dude! The pin in the tentioner...comes with a new chain tentioner..it's like a Grenade..pull pin...bang...once pin is pulled, there's no loading it again...so when you get it in the mail, don't fukk with it..I'll do the chain, I've done timing chains before..not a big deal

just remind me to bring my paint pen

Not a rod knock that's for sure.

100% better video.
No doubt you will get it fixed.

Damn, that does suck man. everything happens for a reason...Forged Internals coming sooner than later. that (I almost "Ripped Cameled" the car.) comment was hilarious though. His luck sucks too.
Good luck man

So Sapperfire came over last night so we could get an early start on the car today. He had actually started on it before I wouke up and when I went outside he had a lot torn down already.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1573.jpg

So I hopped to it and started to help with the rest.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1575.jpg


Decided since it will be a week or so till the car gets put back together that I better mark all the bolts to be safe:
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1576.jpg


Then it was time to get her in the air to pull the PS pump and take out some oil pan bolts:

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1577.jpg


So we loosened the VC's and I pulled the timing cover. At this point I was very sad. :( The tensioners and guides look perfect and show no wear. At that point I was certain the rods or main bearings were shot. We started to make plans as to how to do the motor swap and set this one to the side for a rebuild. So Jeremy starts to make some calls and I fiddle with the tensioners and get the drivers side guide to squeeze out about 1/8-1/4" and start to think maybe it is worn and dont pump up enough and maybe its worth trying to swap them to see what happens.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1584.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1582.jpg


At this point Jeremy is back over the car and says "You're gear is cracked!" and I look at the reluctor gear or crank angle gear and see at its TDC spot it is cracked half way through! :eek: He touches it and it goes "clink clink" on the crank. He just grabes it and it slides off the crank with no effort at all. I take a look and man o man was he right! I had never been so happy to see a broken part! :lol:

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1586.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1591.jpg



Jeremy, thanks a ton mang! I was ready to get a new motor and he swoops in and finds this small part thats pretty easy to swap is broken.

So since we are in there I am gonna replace the tensioners anyway and order a new gear and gasket set.

Man, We are all grad to hear the good news!!!!:D

That's awesome that you found the problem. Which was probably not that easy to spot. Atleast you don't have to go replacing the motor now. Good luck and hope everything works out the best for you.

Woot happy for ya!

Awesome Laser. Glad it worked out.

Did you check the secondary chain tensioners? The ones between the 2 cams? I would be suprised if that cracked wheel is the cause of all that noise. Not ruling it out though, just figure that since the cover is out, now is the time to check those tensioners too...

Yup Dan, the tensioners look just as good or better then the primaries. The noise was this thing seperating as its spinning and then contacting the sensor a little. Also on the keyway you can see where its been moving around PLUS when Jeremy grabbed it and wiggled it was the same sound just not muffled any more.

I am not saying FOR SURE its the problem but it seems more then likely.

nm

glad to see it was not that bad!

hey bill, your text picture earlier wasnt very clear but now i see the crack! like i said on the phone could be a whole lot worse!!! you got lucky dude. as far as sapper saying you cant reload a tensioner you are wrong!! i did it to derek's car when i put the new head on the drievrside. it wasnt fun, or easy, but i used a tiny allen wrench to hold his piston in while i reinstalled it! well, you found the problem, and know what you need now, its just a waiting game now bill! good luck putting her back together, and i am not doubting sapper's mechanical skills but be dam careful putting the chains back on and it the right spot, or you will have much bigger problems that a cracked sprocket!

Good luck with the repair! :)

Ok I was basing my reload judgment on the many import timing chains i've done, the one in particular that comes to mind is on a Honda Odysee..those are "as far as I'm concerned" not reloadable once sprung

well its funny because once i removed derek's chain guide i saw the piston pop out fully which i had seen a million times from taking these motors apart. but when i went to put it back on i couldnt squeese the piston in, i thought wtf did i break it? my buddy matt comes over and says oh have fun with that, he had just done it on a cobra a few days earlier when he accidentally put the head back together and swapped the intake and exhaust cams by mistake!! he showed me how to squeeze it and put a pin in it to hold it, it took me 4 tries to finally get it though, the damn pin kept coming out, it does blow!!

Good to see...I been wondering all weekend.

Good luck man!

That's why in a main line shop, we just order another one if that happens..it comes down to..If you don't know what you're doing,leave it alone

everytime i do a timing chain of any sort and the tensioner relies on pressure to operate, i swap it with a new OEM everytime

everytime i do a timing chain of any sort and the tensioner relies on pressure to operate, i swap it with a new OEM everytime

It's cheap insurance.

The tensioner piston gets acclimated to a certain position and if allowed to fully extend, it may or may not work properly afterwards, especially with high mileage.

But the general procedure is to fully collapse it and lock it with a pin for installation.

Dont new ones come fully collapsed with a pin in them?

Also I read a few different ways to swap the tensioners and figured on the zip-tie method but after staring at my chain...... I dont see how zip tying them will allow me to remove the tensioner and reinstall a new one. Seems like it would make the chain hold a little tighter to the guid in the middle....... oh well, guess I will soon find out. :lol:

Bill, my motor is in tact. just need to transfer over the valve covers and intake.

swap a motor or change a 20 dollar sprocket? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmm

Bill, my motor is in tact. just need to transfer over the valve covers and intake.
I was just about to PM you. Yeah, dont need the motor which is a plus since I am still broke. :lol:

Already ordered the gear and tensioners for my engine. Will be installing them this week or next weekend. :)


Like my new coaster? :lol:

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1592.jpg

That part is the one I was talking about earlier. There is a pic in a thread here of one cracked just like yours.

Like my new coaster? :lol:

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1592.jpg

i like the beaver lighter better!

I was thinking that remote control looks just like mine, dam that table needs some cleaning!

everytime i do a timing chain of any sort and the tensioner relies on pressure to operate, i swap it with a new OEM everytime

Umm...and what do you do for "tensioners" that don't rely on pressure to operate??

i mean a tensioner that runs on oil pressure....if its mechanical and depening on the vehicle, i dont always replace...

any modular ford engine, that tensioner is getting swapped with a new one, regardless

sorry i wasnt thorough enough for you but in Laser's case, buh bye...cya, a new one would be going in if it was me

but to be even more thorough for you....anything with a timing chain its gonna have a hydraulic tensioner of some sort...right? if not a ratcheting mechanical style right? as for timing belts, thats a totally different story...

Yeah as far as I know all timing chains have hydraulic tensioners, there could be one that's ratchet...but I doubt it

as far as Bill getting new tensioners even thou his are tight, I've advised him to replace them...
1) because of mileage
2) it's just plain good sence, since the timing cover is already off.

If it were my car, I would replace the chain as well, just for extra maintainence...but he is on a budget

It's kinda like replacing a clutch, and not replacing the pilot bearing

Good to hear it was a relatively easy (and cheap) fix.

btw... gayest thread title ever.

Good to hear it was a relatively easy (and cheap) fix.

btw... gayest thread title ever.
Thats just cause you have a sick ass ghey mind you sick fock. :p

lol. I'm not the one getting rear ended and blowing stuff. :lol:

btw, is that a lincoln cobrastar on the SC?

Yes

Badass. Looks awesome.

pm sent

Laser. So going to organize a group meet. I propose a meet at the drive in theater off 45.

Damn laser, i havent been on in a week and you try and kill your car!! Im glad its ok but for gods sake buy a damn DD now!!! You keep dumping cash into your DD and its going to bite you in the azz.

So the parts showed up today. :wrench Just have to wait on the gaskets but they should be here tomorrow.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1596.jpg


Just have to get some gasket maker for the seams and should be all good. I have an idea I wanna try on the tensioners. Gonna clamp the guides together then remove the tensioner and swap in the new one. Should work just fine after studying it for a bit. I will still mark the chains and gears in case it falls apart.

Also decided to scrub down the timing cover since its the easiest time to do it. I only scrubbed the front side. I was planning on scrubbing the back side cause all the pics I ever saw of Ford Modulars timing covers pulled off they were all caked on oil on the back but mine was suprisingly clean. :) Guess the engine has had its fluids changed on time its whole life.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1593.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/Mark%20VIII/IMGP1595.jpg


So the goal is for me to steal my buddy again on his day off on Thursday and get the car back together again...... that is if Sapperfire can make it over again.

laser whats up goo tht u fixed her thnk goosh

laser whats up goo tht u fixed her thnk goosh
Lets try that again without the drugs. Wut?

laser whats up goo tht u fixed her thnk goosh

Does that really say 'goosh'?

ok lets try it again
- i see it was an easy fix that god... i was trying not to offened anyone there i fixed my own words.....LOL anyway

ok lets try it again
- i see it was an easy fix that god... i was trying not to offened anyone there i fixed my own words.....LOL anyway
Still not following ya.

Well I kinda am. Its not fixed yet and not sure if it will be the fix. Still need the seals before I can put it together to see IF that was the problem.

I am hopefull it is but not sure yet untill I fire it up.

lol what i ment to say was bill is that i hope its an easy fix and u can have the car back on the road again

Yeah mang, I'll head out Wednesday after I'm off work...I'm pretty certain that it will be fine..I'm just glad we found what it was before that thing grenaded in there

did you get a new front main seal yet?

It is in the timing cover gasket kit. It has not shown up yet. If its not here tomorrow then it will be here Thursday.

So we are off to a fine start. Called the post office and my gaskets are on their way here as I type this. So I went ahead and installed the tensioners and interrupter ring on the car and cleaned off the old gasket maker stiff on the seams.

Changing the tensioners is very easy. Just clamp the two guides together, not tight mind you. Just lightly snug to hold them in place.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/IMGP1597.jpg


Unbolt the tensioner and slap in the new one.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/IMGP1598.jpg


Then just pull the pin and run! :lol: JK. Just pull the pin and remove the clamp. Easy as pie.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/IMGP1600.jpg


Then repeat for the other side and slap in the new gear for the crank trigger and then wait for more parts to show up.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x135/orange92gt/IMGP1603.jpg

hope all goes well, your off to a fine start