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so, what am I getting my self into

topher5150
May 15th, 2010, 07:24 PM
I went to a couple of places to get guesstimates about my front suspension and both of them said my rack is on it's way out (checked Sears they wanted $728 parts and labor). I ordered a remanned rack and I'm curious how monumental a task is this going to be, and can I eyeball the alingment to get it to the shop

NoLimit95
May 15th, 2010, 07:50 PM
Can I ask what you paid for the reman rack? I have one here for a Gen 1 that is OEM and was rebuilt by Ford. Hasn't been out of the box since I bought it.

Sapperfire
May 15th, 2010, 08:04 PM
You can get a rack for around $100
$700+ for parts and labor is WAY too much...our racks are easy to R+R, if you have any knowledge of lefty loosey, righty tighty, we can walk you through it

note that Gen1 and Gen2 Racks are different...best rack for a gen1 is a 93, Gen2 = 98 ( if you get one out of a salvage yard)

As far as alignment, just count the threads as you remove the inner tie rod ends...make sure you remove the boot from the ends of the rack, which will expose the nut end of the inner rod, remove the safety pin from the inner tie rod end.
If you have trouble with the outter rods, just smack the knuckle where the joint is with a hammer, it'll pop loose

edit: just called Advance..I can get a 93 rack for $72.74 with exchange $20 core
94-98 have same part number ..$87.29 exchange, $20 core

my labor book shows 1.5 hours...

You tell me where the extra $500 for Sears is going

Staffamerica74
May 15th, 2010, 08:25 PM
interesting... I always thought 93-97 were the same and 98 was a different rack.

Sapperfire
May 15th, 2010, 08:39 PM
When I did my k-member, the donor was also a 93, I used the rack that was already on the k-member, so it was an even swap, I'm not exactly sure where the difference lies as far as the years...but there are 2 different style racks in the Marks, and I know it has to do with where the bolts are in accordance with the k-member...meaning the distance between anchor bolts,

Best bet is to pull your rack, get the part # off of it
buy 4 bottles of PS fluid..and be ready for a mess

topher5150
May 15th, 2010, 09:25 PM
I don't even think the dealership would have charged that much. i got the reman from advanced auto it's a Cardone, with inner tie rods, for $89.99 with a $60 core. my biggest concerne is the rag joint, how exactly is it held on.

Calabrio
May 15th, 2010, 09:35 PM
When I first bought my Mark VIII, before I began the real learning curve of basic mechanics, I took my car into a shop to get the ball joint replaced. They also told me that my steering rack was "on it's way out." That there was some slack and that I should start considering having it replaced. Back then, I didn't know better and they gave me what I considered an astronomical price.

It was bull:q:q:q:q.

It's been nearly 100,000 miles since that bastard told me I needed to replace my steering rack.

Unless YOU can feel that it's really on it's way out, or the guy at Sears is a close, personal friend that you trust with your life, DO NOT take their word for it.
Business is slow right now

Aquabrit
May 15th, 2010, 09:43 PM
I was once told that my steering rack needed replacing... in a car that didn't even have one! LMAO.

Sapperfire
May 15th, 2010, 09:45 PM
Ok ...lets try this...

How was it determined that your rack is "on it way out?
Have you noticed anything different in your steering, do you have sloshing steering? Does it make a clicking noise while you steer? Have you ever turned your steering wheel and the vehicle not react ?

topher5150
May 15th, 2010, 10:54 PM
they sad its leaking at the rack. it dose feel like i'm driving in sand pulls alot and it can be real shaky in the colder mornings

LaserSVT
May 15th, 2010, 11:04 PM
Yeah, thats a bad rack.

If it were me I would buy Nolimits one as its a quick ratio 93 that was redone with OEM parts.... not some BS taiwan parts store crap.


And the differences are
93: Quick ratio
94-97: All the same
98: Different mounting points

Kstills
May 16th, 2010, 06:53 AM
Yeah, thats a bad rack.

If it were me I would buy Nolimits one as its a quick ratio 93 that was redone with OEM parts.... not some BS taiwan parts store crap.


And the differences are
93: Quick ratio
94-97: All the same
98: Different mounting points

Will the 93's mount on the 94-97? I assume there's an advantage there.

Sapperfire
May 16th, 2010, 11:55 AM
Yes, only a 98 must have 98s rack because of the bolts locations..93-97 are all interchangable..but 93 have the best ratio

and just noticed nobody has answered your rag joint question..
There's a bolt (13mm?) in the racks yolk..take that bolt out..it can be reached easily on the driver side, go from behind the k-member and above it, once that bolt is out you can slide the steering shaft loose from the rack
I believe there is a pic of me taking this bolt out on my progress thread

LaserSVT
May 16th, 2010, 11:57 AM
Will the 93's mount on the 94-97? I assume there's an advantage there.
Yes and yes.

topher5150
May 16th, 2010, 12:16 PM
Yeah, thats a bad rack.

If it were me I would buy Nolimits one as its a quick ratio 93 that was redone with OEM parts.... not some BS taiwan parts store crap.


And the differences are
93: Quick ratio
94-97: All the same
98: Different mounting points

No worries it's a Mexi reman


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