Hey guys, of course I ran into a problem on the first wheel...

I am following the spring installation instructions, but my car seems to differ slightly. In the instructions, it shows the bolt and nut holding the shock assembly w/ the nut facing forward with the car, however, on my car the nut is on the opposite side facing the rear, so there is this little black link thing blocking me from removing the bolt... I was just going to take it off, but I am not sure what it even is and it is not pictured in the instructions... I tried loosening the nuts for it, but the opposite side is just a great plastic cover and the bolt just turns inside... There is nothing ti grab it and take it off.

Does this make sense? I attached a photo.

Also a pic of my wheels that came today.



Sorry I have never done any suspension work before and this is new to me, I am sure after i finish this one wheel I will be able to do the others much quicker... I hope anyways >.<

Yeah just go ahead and take that off. Its your sway bar end link. Now is a good time to replace them if there is any play in the ball joint, they are one of the many clunk culprits in the front suspension. The end of the stud should be hexagonal. Just put a socket or wrench on it and turn the nut off.

Those wheels are really nice.I was looking at those before.Are they 19's? I guess wrecking your car wasnt such a bad thing after all ,look at all the new stuff you are getting...

Those rims look good! Quit teasing me already and throw them on!! I know you are doing the springs but for at least one pic!!!

What they said. Just remove it the link.

Badass wheels.

okay I got the first spring on...


ALl I can say is wow what a PITA... spring compressors are the most annoying things ever. I am doing this all with a non-air tools too... So it is taking forever... I wish I had someone to help me, do both sides at the same time.

Sexy sexy things! Can't wait to see the finished product

No air tools? FAIL. That would take forever without them.

Wait til you try to get the rear ones reinstalled.

so the rears are harder than the fronts?

GDI...

LS is a WARMED OVER TAURUS.

Those little black things are your anti sway bar end links. It's hard to take them off. Most of the time you have to beat them out with a hammer, then you'd be forced to replace them with new ones.

You can try jacking up the lower control arm, which might cause the end links to move around, giving you the room to pull the bolts out.

I gotta give you a lot of credit for doing all that work yourself. Never know how much you can do, unless you try right.

so the rears are harder than the fronts?

GDI...

Just trying to get the top bolts back through the trunk floor is a little challenging. At least, if you are doing it by yourself. When we did my springs, there were 2 of us.

LS is a WARMED OVER TAURUS.

Please expand on this. Do they share a platform? Do they share an engine? Do they share ANYTHING with the Taurus? :eyeroll:

Okay so It is extremely annoying trying to align the bolts into their porper positions while lining it up with the strut support... I just had to re compress one of the fronts like 3 times to get it right...


I wish I didnt work in the morning, I wanna stay up and finish this while im on a roll and have my steps fresh in mind. BUt it is already 6pm and i have one spring in, and the other wrestling with lining it up.


And yes the sway bar links are fvcking annoying trying to put back in, I have to play with the jack for the control arm trying to find the perfect alignment to screw them back on. There better not be any of this BS on the rears lol.

I can already tell with the one lowered spring it is going to look badass BTW lol! I am excited, going to eat dinner and go back out there, my little space heater in the garage is working overtime... like me!

Dude get em' done and post pics

NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
Seriously though I had a hard time with the end links on my 02. I ended up paying a mechanic I know 160.00 to do the springs on my 06.

Am I missing something? What is so hard about taking off the end links? I've never had a difficult time on any of the cars I've taken them off of. I will say though that using a spring compresser with only hand tools by yourself really sucks ass. And yeah lining up the spring and the boot and cap all while trying to get the little nut on isn't easy either. But good work so far, hang in there you'll get it.

I'll be doing this Friday, with air tools.

After I get my car done, I am doing sussy on a BMW 335. I'm sure the LS will be simple compared to that.

Just trying to get the top bolts back through the trunk floor is a little challenging. At least, if you are doing it by yourself. When we did my springs, there were 2 of us.

i would very much so disagree with this as I found the backs easy as hell! But then again each LS is in its own condition and different things are worn in different places. I had a hell of time with my right front, but the left front was easy and the rears took less time combined than the left front took alone.

To avoid the problem with tension on the sway bar end links, have both wheels hanging at the end of their suspension travel, off the ground. That bar is meant to be twisted on turns, but doing it on a jack is a pain.

If you misaligned the shock with respect to the triple bolt upper mounting plate, simply turn the lower end of the shock with a 3/8" drive socket extension. The shock will turn. I slap white grease on my bottom spring support plates to assist in this turning, but they will turn dry as well, given enough muscle.

BTW: I bought sway bar end links from rock auto and they had grease fittings on them! Sweet! No tiny hex holding feature, either, just real nuts on the studs.

50594

phew this is a workout... Major muscle cramps in my arms from all this.

Already slamming down the ibuprofen knowing I am going to want to die @ work tomorow. I am making good time now that I know wut I am doing, the front right was a breeze after doing the left.

The rear left was annoying at first because of that rear sway bar or whatever was blocking the strut from falling. Had to undo that and it was rusted on like amofo!


On my last spring, guess I am going to go ahead and mount the new wheels while I am out there.

LS is a WARMED OVER TAURUS.

The MKS is a Taurus, but I know of nothing at all that is shared between the LS (a DEW98 rear wheel drive platform) and the Taurus. Perhaps you should do some more research before trying a hit-and-run post?

Okay I just ran into a huge problem, I have been on the last spring for an hour now and I cant even get the old one out.

For some reason the strut was forced down into the bracket that holds it and now it is jammed. The strut assembly is jammed between this and one of the walls in the strut tower... I have been trying to maneuver my jack on the strut and everything trying to free it, but it wont budge?!


Why is the fvcking control arm so springy?! I have to jump as hard as I can on it to get it to move and it barely moved if at all.

I can't believe this is happening on the last fkn one...



Can anyone help? Here is a photo of the jamming, this sucks a$$!



It looks like freeing the control arm would work, but I don't even know where to do that. I can't figure out how the LS's control arms are forced upwards all the time, I don't get it?????
:mad:

I called it quits after 2 hours of trying to free the strut... What a mess on the last fricking one!

The worst part about it is I STILL dunno how I am going to get that out.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I am going to be sore as balls for work tomorow

Try hammerin it out. How the hell did u get it there anyways? I did my springs myself without airtools. Took a while but wasnt really difficult. Was harder on my 325i.

Take the stand out, put the car on the jack or on a stand and try hammering or turning the shock till it comes out of the jam.

Also disconnect the rear sway bar links, those are keepin the arms "up".

When I did mine (without air tools) I removed everything. Took about 4hrs total but everything went very smooth. I was gonna get the JH9's.. Gotta find something else now.. Your LS will look better with them tho :D

MAN! I was all excited as I was reading down each post. I thought I was going to get to see the rims on the car. Thats a bummer, hammer that sucker down

loosen the two (I beleive 18mm) bolts on the control arm. Thats what holds the control arm up, or makes it springy.

just remember to lift it back up when you tighten it, or it will squeak like mine did.

Don't sweat it bro-
You'll get the last one just tackle it tonight after work. You won't be in such a rush against the clock and you will be able to reap the reward.

i would very much so disagree with this as I found the backs easy as hell! But then again each LS is in its own condition and different things are worn in different places. I had a hell of time with my right front, but the left front was easy and the rears took less time combined than the left front took alone.

Yeah, to each his own. The fronts were super easy on mine. The rears were easy as well, but getting those cap bolts through was a little more difficult in the trunk for me.

And andy, best of luck on the last one tonight. I really want to see some pics!

loosen the two (I beleive 18mm) bolts on the control arm. Thats what holds the control arm up, or makes it springy.

just remember to lift it back up when you tighten it, or it will squeak like mine did.





Do you know where these are? R they in my photos? I c ant find what makes the control arm not fall freely?

I will try the sway bar link but it doesn't seem like that is wits holding this bastard up. Rdy to be off work and hit this! Five o clock pls get here :)

I removed my entire hub while replacing the bearing. the tie rod (or whatever its called) one bolt across the bottom, and one in front. I don't think I had to remove the tie rod end...anyway, I circled the bolt in the pic. if you were looking at the control arm from above its similar to a triangle...this is one bolt circled, the other will be 5-6 inches to the left of it, its the two bolts that bolt the arm to the chassis.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a184/outkast_/:q:q:q:q.jpg

nice...you named the picture f^ck and it wouldnt post...lol

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a184/outkast_/1234.jpg

Lift up the other side of the car at the same time as this side is off the ground. The sway bar is trying to level the rear suspension on you and won't let it drop until the other wheel drops. Have the other wheel hanging completely on the extended shock.

and yeah...what he said...^

just happen random parts of the car till stuff lossens up, start with the windshield and work ur way down to the trunk.....thats wut i would do....

Yea I thought of that today. But when I did te other side I did not have both jacked up.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Appreciate it

So what the H? Get it done? Pics?

It's done. Just finished about 30 min ago, just cleaned up the garage... I took a few pics but since its dark and i have bad lighting u cant see much. Ill upload anyways.

First impression after finishing: LOWWWW

Definitely lowered a solid 1.75", probably closer to 2 or more. I took it out for a quick spin in the neighborhood just to get a feel, but it is currently freezing raining and I didnt want to do anything stupid.

First impression when driving: Is it psychological or is it a better ride now? It seems like the steering wheel is a ton easier to turn and i love the tires.


I know the photos are awful, but it is dark and crammed in my garage, nowhere to get a good angle.





http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs156.snc3/18361_719708730942_17128130_40011259_1562071_n.jpg





http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs136.snc3/18361_719708735932_17128130_40011260_3927934_n.jpg







http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs136.snc3/18361_719708740922_17128130_40011261_2114179_n.jpg

looks good man! im lovin those rims car looks a 100 times meaner

nice:hump:

Looks good man. Clean it up and shoot some nice pictures.

Nice, you finished them. Your car is coming along nice, transforming since that crash. Rims look good even with only a faint image of them.

can someone copy a pic and repost it on photobucket or somthing? it must be on a social site cuz its blocked here....I wanna see it!

Glad you got it done bro-
now get some good side view and 3/4 view shots uploaded ASAP!!

Lookin' good, dude!!

Wow. I bet it looks amazing during the day. More pictures now.

Nice job dude!

Those wheels look great!

Sorry to bump. But I am outside installing my new links and everything. I noticed a creaking sound from one of my rear shocksthe last couple days. So I pulled out the strut assembly and inspected it.

I am wondering if the LS stock shocks are supposed to spring back up when you push them down? It seems like when I put my springs on, the shock was pretty much hard to compress down.

I can fully push this one in without much effort and it very slowly creeps back out. Is this normal? Or do I have a defective shock?

I can fully push this one in without much effort and it very slowly creeps back out. Is this normal? Or do I have a defective shock?

The shock is dead! There should be much effort required to compress the piston. I would bet cash money that all your shocks are in that condition.

when I took my eibachs off, I had two new shocks and two old and all four were dead... needless to say I had to buy two new ones and was able to get the other two under warranty. (just dont let them know the car is lowered)

My car is not under warranty. I am just pissed that I would have to take all of the springs back off (MANUALLY) and put them back on after putting in new shocks...

I don't see how it is dead... Does lowering the LS put extra strain on the shocks or something???? I don't get it.


Also as a side note... the rear toe-links are retarded to get access to the bolt, the exhaust is perfectly in the way. I am having the tire place put those on tomorrow when I get my alignment.


What are the symptoms heard/felt when driving with a 'dead' shock?

Sorry to bump. But I am outside installing my new links and everything. I noticed a creaking sound from one of my rear shocksthe last couple days. So I pulled out the strut assembly and inspected it.

I am wondering if the LS stock shocks are supposed to spring back up when you push them down? It seems like when I put my springs on, the shock was pretty much hard to compress down.

I can fully push this one in without much effort and it very slowly creeps back out. Is this normal? Or do I have a defective shock?

Sounds like normal operation. The gas pressurization inside the shock always extends fully with no load. Should go in fairly easily, tough to re-extend quickly. That's the way the shock regulates and damps the bumps.

I put it back and it is fine. The creaking is gone, I think the spring became unseated a little.

My toe links are totally shot - can't wait to get this thing in for an alignment. Thanks for the suggestions on the shock, the verdict is: not blown.

My car is not under warranty. I am just pissed that I would have to take all of the springs back off (MANUALLY) and put them back on after putting in new shocks...

I don't see how it is dead... Does lowering the LS put extra strain on the shocks or something???? I don't get it.


Also as a side note... the rear toe-links are retarded to get access to the bolt, the exhaust is perfectly in the way. I am having the tire place put those on tomorrow when I get my alignment.


What are the symptoms heard/felt when driving with a 'dead' shock?

If you can push the shock down without much effort as you said and it only comes back up very slowly, then the shock is done. Trust me, i would know. I have done some many shocks changes on vehicles, i have lost the count.

When you have a dead shock, the car will ride harder, you will hear unusual clunking, it will have more body lean and it will nose dive more, when little pressure is applied on the brakes.
I have red in some of your posts that you have around 100,000 miles on your car and if the shocks are the original ones, you will need to replace them. It's recommend to change every 50,000 miles. This would depend on one's driving style of course, but it's a good number to roll with.

Yea I think they're originals, can't be too sure though. I got the car with 100k+.


Anyways the shock doesn't seem to be an issue, as the car feels fine. I do however have a problem, the alignment place I talked to yesterday had a guy answer the phone and he said they would install my new OEM toe-links. I go up there today and apparently I was misinformed, as they do not install any part that was not bought from them. I called 4 different tire shops and this was the standard answer. I even offered $150 under the table to put them on, PLUS the alignment and suggest never speaking of the parts again.

No dice.

Looks like I will have to attempt to get these bastards off myself, The stupid fking design of the nut on bolt, that required holding the bolt while spinning the nut is the dumbest sh!t ever. It is going to be a total PITA to put the new ones on as well as they are just OEM with the same stupid design.

WTF was ford thinking with these things, they're everywhere on the suspension parts, Retarded.



Okay rant over, I am going to go out and try to get these damn things off, I have one of the toe links completely loose and it is barely on there. Ill be back with updates I'm sure, off to my 30 degree garage!

Well that sucks.The performance shop by me will install anything you take to them, well almost I guess.

I got them. I had to be innovative to get them off, but it was actually alot easier than I thought. I used a power drill on the bold part and held the nut in place and spun the entire rod around till the nut was off. Was a ten minute job once I used my head.


Scheduled to get an alignment now tomorrow @ noon.


Also ordered new coils, plugs, and valve cover gaskets.