Has anyone bought one of these Daashboard Trim Kits off of ebay or any other place where they are a sticker, if so any feedback on it or any advice.

well i have a wood dash kit in my 93. The kit was already in the car when i bought it in 2006. I can say that when it gets hot in the car, like if its been sitting in the hot sun for a few hours, the outer clear part start to warp and sometimes even peel up.

these pictures are the effects from the sun. YES THE CAR IS DIRTY

if any1 knows a remedy(besides ripping it all out) lemme know

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa272/covshark/DSC01316.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa272/covshark/DSC01317.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa272/covshark/DSC01318.jpg

I've seen a few in the junkyards and they look like $h!t. The peeling is cancerous, just like a first gen hood.

First parts car I bought had one.... ugly as sin!

Very ricerish...

First parts car I bought had one.... ugly as sin!

Very ricerish...


make it fake carbon fiber and then it's officially "ricerish"

Ya. The kits are crap and look like crap. If they actually REPLACED the trim parts then maybe it would fly with me. But the whole stick on thing and being able to see the original surface around the edge looks like crap.

+1

thanks for the info, i will just start buying new parts rather than cover up the scratches and the rubberish stuff that scrratches off really easily

You could score all those parts in a junkyard for $100 or less...or at least around here you could.

ya there are only a couple peices to replace

Just paint it all body color.

has anyone seen the True Fire Mark VIII???I think the fake wood was painted on and it looked awesome
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SR8W9l70aU

k9, how would you go about doing it tho, as faar as cleaning it, there is that :q:q:q:qty ass rubber coatingo on it, also is there a special paint to use since its plastic, that sounds like it is a good way to go

Remove all the rubber junk, prime and paint... pretty simple...

3M adhesive remover eats the stuff up...

I used a Goo Gone product to remove the rubber coating, let it soak a few minutes then remove with finger tips.
My 93 had the same wood kit as post #2, took alot of time to remove.
I actually like my Dark Burl wood kit that replaced it. The all Mocha interior is a little bland without some contrast.

any1 have a remedy for the clear plastic part that is peeling away from the wood?

Check with a hobby shop the sells RC Planes, they have a plastic canopy glue that dries clear. Walmart or a hardware store might carry something similiar.

do you guys reccomend me bring the parts to an autobody shop rather than a spray can?

Black??

You can spray can that EASY...

but would it look good tho?

If you prep the parts properly and use quality paints, and most importantly is know how to paint than yes....

Heres something i wrote up for my old Mustang about painting trim. I used the same steps when i painted the radio,shifter,cupholder and ash tray bezels in my Mark 8.

http://www.mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-general-discussion/487650-how-to-paint-interior-trim.html

thanks, that one helps a ton

If you prep the parts properly and use quality paints, and most importantly is know how to paint than yes....

The prep and time you invest in what you're going to paint is where it's at. Don't rush it and by all means, make part of your prep work "water sanding" with 1500 to 2000 grit paper. It might not seem to be doing much but believe me, it is. If it were me, I would go with a charcoal gray satin or at least a satin black. I would try to match the strip across the airbag. Whatever that color is but go with what you like. I just too easy to have too much black.

Prep, sand, prime at least 2 coats, water sand after a few hours and if possible, let it sit all night. After the water sanding, make sure everything is as smooth as possible and then hit it with a tack cloth in every spot. I would use Dupli Color for the paint. Light coat at first and then every 10 to 15 minutes, another coat for a total of at least 3 coats and then let that set over night. If you want added shine, then you always have clear coat that can be added. Water sand the paint to remove the orange peel look before clearing. Small pieces like that being on the inside would show little to no orange peel anyway.

what do you mean by orange peel? and you think that an all black interior is too much on an all black car, no chrome, anodized rims?

what do you mean by orange peel? and you think that an all black interior is too much on an all black car, no chrome, anodized rims?

Look at the texture of the paint, only on the bumper cover. Since this pic, I let the paint and clear cure out for 6 days and then came back and wet sanded it smooth, every square inch. When I was done, the whole bumper looked hazy and foggy, almost like I had just primed it. All I had to do was use a medium cut compound first and after that, I used a scratch and swirl remover and then a coat of wax and now it looks extremely slick, black and shiny.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/NoLimit2Me/RearBumperCoverPaint007.jpg

As for interior parts, not doing them in gloss would eliminate a lot of the orange peel look. Satin or flat is what I would use and if you want all black, then go with all black. I would do only a few parts first to see if that's what you're going to like. It's not like it's stuck forever in all black if you don't like it. Really, all that would not be gray anymore would be the strip on the front of the dash and the strip on the door panel and in the back side panels. Probably wouldn't look bad. I just wouldn't go with gloss. Any little scratch would show way too easily. I'm thinking satin without a clear would be good enough but remember, whatever you use, you aren't stuck with it. The paint is $4.49 a can and can always be changed. If I was going to practice on a piece, it would be the dash bezel or even the piece just to the right hand side of the airbag. It's small and easily could be sanded off if not liked. Patience and time in your prep work will pay off in the end.

Satin sounds like the choice to be, i will slowly being doing peice by peice and will post pics along the way

By going with a Metallic gloss it will reduce the look of the orange peal, a flat or satin finish will show any inperfection in the part due to prep work. I did my Mark 8's trim with a metallic gloss black and covered it with 5 coats of clear coat and you cant see hardly any orange peal. I would suggest going to the juck yard and buying some junk trim and trying out someof the diffrent colors you think you would want in your car.

Just in casue you didnt read the Thread i posted about painting interior trim heres what i used. Just what you see here cost me around 60.00 but keep in mind you will need more than 1 can of paint and clear coat for a finish that will withstand the wear and tear of a DD. Just the radio,shifter and both door bezels in my Mustang took almost 2 cans of primer, 4 cans of paint and 4 cans of clear (i had about 3/4 of a can of paint and 1/2 a can of clear left over).

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa126/jrherald420/100_2387.jpg

ok, will definately do it right the first time, i recently purchased a peice from peter levile/ Jamie. I will try i on that first

Good thinking!!