Ok, I've searched, and I've read the manual but I just want to ask a few questions and clearify a few things about maintenance on my LS I just bought with 125k miles on it. I'm assuming that the 100k maintenance was not done.

1. Engine: 5w-20 Probably going to use Mobile 1, Really almost 7qts? Any filter to avoid or is great?

2. Manual Trans: Mercon ATF, what's a good synthetic?

3. Differential: 75w-140 synthetic, does it really have to be that thick what about 75w-90? I do live where it gets above 100 degress F

4. Coolant: Green all metal with water wetter

5. Power steering and Fan: just plain ATF.

6. PCV valve: whatever Napa has?

7. Sparkplugs: NKG G-Power Platinum

8. Brake/clutch fluid: DOT 3 good?

9. Fuel filter: Motorcraft good?

10. Hinges and latches: White lithium grease good?

11. KKM intake: Can I clean this with K&N recharge kit?

Let me know if I'm missing anything or if you have a suggestion.

Thanks in advance!

Okay, I can guess that you have a V6, gen I LS with manual transmission, but it would be nice if you could confirm this and give the exact year.

1. Yes, 5W-20. Mobil is okay. Just put a full 7 quarts in, a little overfill won't hurt. Avoid Fram, use Motorcraft.

a FULL 7 quarts!?! That seems like a lot. Is it different for the v6? I would assume it takes less than a v8 and I'm pretty sure I use no more than 6 quarts in the 3.9...

I could be wrong so feel free to correct me.

The 3.9L V8 takes 7qts

3.0L V6 needs 7qts (6.9qts)
3.9L V8 needs 6qts

Mercon ATF IS synthetic.

PCV valve requires teardown of the intake to get to it. May as well order the hose thing for it, a little right angled hose that costs around $25.

Change plugs while torn down on that intake.

Consider putting in three new COPs on the side of the engine that has the intake covering it.

Serpentine belt changed yet? I'm on my original with 138K.

3.0L V6 needs 7qts (6.9qts)
3.9L V8 needs 6qts

That may be true for gen I.
The gen II V8 holds 6.5 quarts according to the manual. (The gen II has an oil-to-water cooler next to the oil filter, that's probably where the extra 1/2 quart is.)
7 quarts brings it to just a hair over the full line on the dip stick.

...
Serpentine belt changed yet? I'm on my original with 138K.

I'm at 109K on my 04. The service schedule says to check it at 100K, and to replace it at 150K (even if it still looks okay). Mine still looks great.

I use a Wix oil filter, but what is up with Fram? No Good?

I use a Wix oil filter, but what is up with Fram? No Good?

They have leaky anti-drain back valves (made of cardboard I think). This causes a rattle (and engine wear) at start up.

Okay, I can guess that you have a V6, gen I LS with manual transmission, but it would be nice if you could confirm this and give the exact year.

Yes it is a Gen 1 v6 manual and its a '01. Sorry I forgot that, now I feel like a boob, mmm soft and squishy. Anyway, what about the KKM intake oil and the rear differential weight? No compliants on the brands I've chosen?

Also what about injector cleaner or this kit I've heard about from 3M that's supposed to clean the whole intake and injectors? It goes in front the the TB to clean the intake. Or should I just clean the injectors the professional way? If that way then does this engine have a standard ford fuel connection on the fuel rail?

Thanks again in advance.

That may be true for gen I.
The gen II V8 holds 6.5 quarts according to the manual. (The gen II has an oil-to-water cooler next to the oil filter, that's probably where the extra 1/2 quart is.)
7 quarts brings it to just a hair over the full line on the dip stick.

+1

Just had my 2004 V8 Sport with the oil cooler changed, it took 7 qts and like joegr stated "shows a hair over on the dip stick".

Mercon ATF IS synthetic.

PCV valve requires teardown of the intake to get to it. May as well order the hose thing for it, a little right angled hose that costs around $25.

Change plugs while torn down on that intake.

Consider putting in three new COPs on the side of the engine that has the intake covering it.

Serpentine belt changed yet? I'm on my original with 138K.

Mercon is synthetic? hmm didn't know that.

Where do I get that PCV hose at?

Are the G-power Platinum plugs good? Also It says heat range 5, is that good? I do plan to put a cooler thermostat is, this things seems to be pretty hot stock.

Are there better COP then the stockers?

I don't know about the belt, I'll have to look.

Here's what I used on my 01V8 and now 06V8. Posted in 01/06 order.

1. Engine: 6qt - Mobil 1 5W-30/20 summer, Mobil 1 0W-30/20 winter

2. Trans: Royal Purple ATF

3. Differential: Motorcraft

4. Coolant: Motorcraft

5a. Power steering: Royal Purple ATF
5b. Fan : Can't remember (just any plain ATF)

7. Sparkplugs: Autolite XP / E3.48

8. Brake/clutch fluid: Valvoline Synpower (a little hard to find nowadays)

9. Fuel filter: Purolator (Motorcraft is fine as well)

Mercon is synthetic? hmm didn't know that.

Where do I get that PCV hose at?

Are the G-power Platinum plugs good? Also It says heat range 5, is that good? I do plan to put a cooler thermostat is, this things seems to be pretty hot stock.

Are there better COP then the stockers?

I don't know about the belt, I'll have to look.

hose = dealer item

personally, i see no need to not use motorcraft stock plugs. if they run over 100K, what could work any better? That's my policy. I say change them earlier than 100K and I also know that on my V6, they lasted longer than that. They lasted until I lost a COP at around 106 or close K miles.

I used Duratec or whatever autozone carries. About 37$ each or so. Their books did not used to give the correct number for the v6, so try to bring an old one with you if you decide to change them. Since you are not wanting to go under than intake any more than needed, this step is good insurance, as is the hose for the PCV. You can save your old coils and if one fails on the driver's accessible side, you have three spares.

I like Joe's theory on the belt, and it is nice to know there is no scheduled change until 150K. I didn't read the manual on that one! Thanks.

I also use DOT4 on my car with no bad side effects.

Also check the cabin air filter soon.

Ok so I was getting fluids today and didn't get brake fluid because I forgot which type to get, didn't bring a list. Should I get DOT 5.1? Not to be confused with DOT5, which is a silicone based fluid. DOT 5.1 is just like DOT 4 which has a lower boiling point then DOT 5.1 or DOT 3 which has a lower boiling point then DOT 4. So DOT 3 being the lowest boiling point shouldn't I get a higher boiling point as long as I stay away from a silicone based fluid? I'm flushing the entire brake system so I won't be mixing types.

Also I've been noticed a slight clunk between shifts and sometimes when first going into gear so I grabbed my drive shaft and wiggled it. It has an excessive amount of play and seems to be loose in the Differential. My educated guess on this is that my differential is going bad, or is play normal with these differentials?
Edit: By loose I mean that i can twist it, not a side to side or up and down movement.

Ok so I was getting fluids today and didn't get brake fluid because I forgot which type to get, didn't bring a list. Should I get DOT 5.1? Not to be confused with DOT5, which is a silicone based fluid. DOT 5.1 is just like DOT 4 which has a lower boiling point then DOT 5.1 or DOT 3 which has a lower boiling point then DOT 4. So DOT 3 being the lowest boiling point shouldn't I get a higher boiling point as long as I stay away from a silicone based fluid? I'm flushing the entire brake system so I won't be mixing types.

Also I've been noticed a slight clunk between shifts and sometimes when first going into gear so I grabbed my drive shaft and wiggled it. It has an excessive amount of play and seems to be loose in the Differential. My educated guess on this is that my differential is going bad, or is play normal with these differentials?
Edit: By loose I mean that i can twist it, not a side to side or up and down movement.

That is normal play, don't worry about it.

You may want to do a bit of research on the brake fluid type. I think that you are OK with 5.1, but its only negative may be just its price. I buy cheap DOT4 at Walmart and if the 5.1 costs a lot, it may be just wasted money if you're not racing.

On the shift/clunk thing, my son makes my car do that, but my 16 year old daughter and I don't have the problem. It may be just a mismatched engine/transmission speed thing or late or early gas pedal while shifting timing. I'd just recommend that you work it out with your technique and it will go away.

DOT 5.1 is fine, other than the crazy price. Valvoline Synpower would be perfect if you can still find it or you could go all out and get something like SuperBlue ATE :)

That is normal play, don't worry about it.

On the shift/clunk thing, my son makes my car do that, but my 16 year old daughter and I don't have the problem. It may be just a mismatched engine/transmission speed thing or late or early gas pedal while shifting timing. I'd just recommend that you work it out with your technique and it will go away.

How much play is considered normal on this differential? Also how many miles are on your LS and how many of those have you put on it?

How much play is considered normal on this differential? Also how many miles are on your LS and how many of those have you put on it?

No idea how much play is normal. I've had 2 2000 LS manuals. First one i drove from 9K miles to 107K or so, maybe more. Son got t boned, totaled. I bought the same thing (color, year, transmission) with 84K, up to 138K now. Both of my cars did the same thing and neither one had rear end problems. It does seem odd, like an eighth or tenth of a turn of slack in the driveshaft, but it is all quiet.

BTW: Great questions, keep up the good work on taking care of your ride.

How much play is considered normal on this differential? Also how many miles are on your LS and how many of those have you put on it?

Are you sure that the play is in the differential and not in the CV joints at the back wheels?

Are you sure that the play is in the differential and not in the CV joints at the back wheels?

No, I'm not 100% sure, but it didn't seem like it was. Just recalling from memory it seemed like it was closer to a 1/6th to a 1/5th of a turn.

When replacing my fuel filter I'm going to replace my degas (coolant) tank as I'm leaking anti-freeze from right there. I'm just deciding whether or not to spend the extra money and replace the hoses too. my experience with ford hoses is that they last a very long time before needing replacement. I have an 92' Lincoln town car w/ 4.6l and it still only has had one coolant hose replace for the heater. I think a mechanic had to replace it to put in a restrictor or something a long time ago before I knew enough about mechanics to work on it.

Also, thanks milehighmikey, I plan to have this car for a long time. I'm quite mechanically inclined, but need help with specifics as my recent experience has been with diesel trucks(tractor/trailers, or Semi-truck if you prefer) and my previous experience was mostly older chevy trucks. If any of those had that much play in the diff I'd be certain that it was begining to go.

I changed my transmission fluid today and man did it need it. I've never seen ATF fluid so dark and dirty looking.

I bought a new degas tank with hoses but haven't put it in yet. I ran some water through the radiator the other day and it came out muddy looking so I'm going to pull my radiator and pressure was it.

I've used Fram oil filters for years. Never had an issue/never had any engine rattle whatsoever. And the fram filters have gone through numerous designs over the years. Are we saying that a design that was in place in 1981 is STILL in place?

No, I'm not 100% sure, but it didn't seem like it was. Just recalling from memory it seemed like it was closer to a 1/6th to a 1/5th of a turn.

When replacing my fuel filter I'm going to replace my degas (coolant) tank as I'm leaking anti-freeze from right there. I'm just deciding whether or not to spend the extra money and replace the hoses too. my experience with ford hoses is that they last a very long time before needing replacement. I have an 92' Lincoln town car w/ 4.6l and it still only has had one coolant hose replace for the heater. I think a mechanic had to replace it to put in a restrictor or something a long time ago before I knew enough about mechanics to work on it.

Also, thanks milehighmikey, I plan to have this car for a long time. I'm quite mechanically inclined, but need help with specifics as my recent experience has been with diesel trucks(tractor/trailers, or Semi-truck if you prefer) and my previous experience was mostly older chevy trucks. If any of those had that much play in the diff I'd be certain that it was begining to go.

From my recent experience with my 04 (about 111K miles), I would advise that you replace the two main radiator hose assemblies and both halves of the thermostat housing. (While you have the hoses out of the way, it is a good time to change the belt too.)
You are right about the hoses lasting a long time. Unfortunately, both of the main radiator hoses have plastic parts in the middle. These crack, just like the degas tank. I had one hose (upper one) with a crack in the plastic, the rear part of the thermostat housing with a crack on the top, and a broken off outlet tube (one of the ones on top), and cracks in the degas bottle.

Also, if you have dirt and crud in the cooling system, you need to flush the whole system, not just the radiator. The coolant in the engine does not drain out at all, just the radiator, heater core, and degas tank.

Are you sure that the play is in the differential and not in the CV joints at the back wheels?

I was installing the magnaflow cat-back yesterday and while under there I decided to try and find where my drive line play is. It's coming from the CVs closet to the differential equally on both sides. It's not much play but enough to be felt/heard. I'm learning to shift different mainly by taking all aggressiveness out of the shift seems to result in a nice, clean, bump free shift.

Thanks mikey, You've been right on all this.

Now the only thing left is my high idle issue. It's not the PCV valve or elbo and it's not the IAC. Several people have told me to use starting fluid but I don't like using it near electrical wiring or rubber hoses. I really would rather use propane which I don't have access to at the moment.

I was installing the magnaflow cat-back yesterday and while under there I decided to try and find where my drive line play is. It's coming from the CVs closet to the differential equally on both sides. It's not much play but enough to be felt/heard. I'm learning to shift different mainly by taking all aggressiveness out of the shift seems to result in a nice, clean, bump free shift.

Thanks mikey, You've been right on all this.

Now the only thing left is my high idle issue. It's not the PCV valve or elbo and it's not the IAC. Several people have told me to use starting fluid but I don't like using it near electrical wiring or rubber hoses. I really would rather use propane which I don't have access to at the moment.

vacuum leaks cannot and will not cause a high idle, If you had vacuum leaks it would run slower and crappier, any car with MAF will run lean and pop a code if you had a vacuum leak. Have you run diagnostic codes on it?? If it really is high idle it should throw a code like, "cannot control low rpm" or something like that. Also use grease on the hinges, but not the latches, use a penetrating oil in latches or it will gum them up and can make the door ajar switches stick. also anytime you can stick to ford stuff like only buy ford ignition coils, they should be motorcraft and most parts stores can get them, I am a mechanic and buy get a discount at dealer, and they are cheaper from the dealer than the junk from autozone.

I finally solved my high idle issue. It's call there wasn't one, the tach is off by about 200 rpm. I don't know why or how but the computer says it idles at about 880 rpm while the tach says just under 1100 rpm. On another good note, my LS passed smog with flying colors. The highest measurement was 1 PPM at idle on the HC.

I did replace my PCV valve and elbow anyway. They were original and the elbow was about ready to crack all the way through anyway.

Ok, I've searched, and I've read the manual but

Let me know if I'm missing anything or if you have a suggestion.

Thanks in advance!

so you basicly want your own thread that encompasses most all discussions ever held on LVC?

lol

my son makes my car do that, but my 16 year old daughter and I don't have the problem.

I'd just recommend that you work it out with your technique and it will go away.

thats funny right there...

so you basicly want your own thread that encompasses most all discussions ever held on LVC?

lol

No.

The shifting bump was less shifting technique and more due to worn CV joints.

I decided to post my finding on here so that when people use the search function they can actually find answers. So many threads are started but the answers are often not posted.

If you're going to make fun of me for this thread then you should blast those that start thread in the Lincoln LS forum that aren't even about the LS, let along Lincolns.

hey it was a VERY good top 10 questions

which was kind of the point I was making

someone should turn it into a FAQ

dont be so sensitive, i wasnt making fun of you.

hey it was a VERY good top 10 questions

which was kind of the point I was making

someone should turn it into a FAQ

dont be so sensitive, i wasnt making fun of you.

Oh you were laughing, how's that not making fun of me :confused:

:rolleyes:

they were laughing too (points up to the rafters)