have any of you folks performed this at home? Can you kindly give the abridged version if so. I was looking for a drain plug but could find it if there is one.

I havent, I always have it done for me.

have any of you folks performed this at home? Can you kindly give the abridged version if so. I was looking for a drain plug but could find it if there is one.


yes - just this weekend - testing the supercharger I had to flush the cooling system because I had to remove the intake and cooling tower.

the drain plug is a 'white plug' on the bottom of the lower passenger side of the radiator - has a hex key remove.

on the V8 your open the refill lid, open the cooling tower lid and the open the drain plug - it should drain out about 4Ls.

refilling is a little trickier.
- tighten the drain plug
- leave the cooling tower and refill canister open
- open the bleed valve (next to the refill canister).
- fill the refill canister to the 'full' line - let sit - refill - sit ....
- then fill the cooling tower to the top, put on the cap
- then start the car, interior heater to max
- leave the bleeder valve open until it starts spilling a steady stream, then tighen
- top up the refill canister
- let the car warm up, open the bleeder valve once in a while until a steady stream of fluid runs out
- make sure that warm air is coming out of the interior heater vents
- turn off the car, let the car cool down - top up the refill canister.

yes - just this weekend - testing the supercharger I had to flush the cooling system because I had to remove the intake and cooling tower.

the drain plug is a 'white plug' on the bottom of the lower passenger side of the radiator - has a hex key remove.

on the V8 your open the refill lid, open the cooling tower lid and the open the drain plug - it should drain out about 4Ls.

refilling is a little trickier.
- tighten the drain plug
- leave the cooling tower and refill canister open
- open the bleed valve (next to the refill canister).
- fill the refill canister to the 'full' line - let sit - refill - sit ....
- then fill the cooling tower to the top, put on the cap
- then start the car, interior heater to max
- leave the bleeder valve open until it starts spilling a steady stream, then tighen
- top up the refill canister
- let the car warm up, open the bleeder valve once in a while until a steady stream of fluid runs out
- make sure that warm air is coming out of the interior heater vents
- turn off the car, let the car cool down - top up the refill canister.


THANKS! :gr_hail:

Bumpin'.

So, does that procedure work perfectly?

I'm concerned about those pesky little air pockets that I've heard about.

Only 4 litres gets out? I want to drain ALL the fluid, completely replace existing stuff.

How can I get it all out?

Kevin - this is the procedure I have used several times. has worked for me.

I have it in a pdf if you want it - shoot me a PM with your e-mail address.

Yeah, that'll work.

My main concern is evacuating ALL the 6 year old fluid. It is still 'good' for freezing point, but it's probably getting up there in acidity.

PM Sent.

Here the 'flush procedure':

Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.



2. Drain the cooling system - procedure I mentioned above

3. Remove the water thermostat.

4. Install the water hose connection without the water thermostat.

5. NOTE: Refer to the cooling system Flush-All operating instructions for specific vehicle hook-up.

Use cooling system Flush-All, Coolant Flush Kit and Drain Kit to flush the engine and radiator.
Use Premium Cooling System Flush F1AZ-19A503-A meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P7-A for vehicles filled with Premium Engine Coolant E2FZ-19549-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M971B44-A (green color).

6. Install the water thermostat.

7. Backflush the heater core if necessary.

8. Fill the cooling system - procedure I mentioned above





I'll send you the docs.

The block should have drains on it too. Not positive...but I've never seen one that didn't. However, accessing them could be a real pain in the butt.

The block should have drains on it too. Not positive...but I've never seen one that didn't. However, accessing them could be a real pain in the butt.

Now a days the block drains are often used for the knock sensors. So you might need a special tool to remove them. On my last car, I just said the heck with it and iognored the block drains.

I do use a Prestone flush kick which pretty much assures you of cleaning out the whole system anyway. Plus I go thru multiple flush and drive cycles to make sure all the old stuff is out. Then I refill First with the 50% quantity of coolant then top up with distilled water. Filling first with coolant makes sure that you have a 50% mix since there is always some water stuck in the system so if you fill with coolant last, you never get the right amount in there.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

Thank you guys, I guess I'm way too "old school" I was doing this for my kid and you were a great help.