I've tried to do a search on doing a Mustang hub swap on my '94 Mark VIII but I've not found any threads that details the process. Can anyone direct me to a write up or detailed thread that outlines parts needed and what the process is? If there isn't one... can someone tell me?

What's your objective? Unless you want a specific wheel that wasn't put on a mustang, but is offered in the mustang bolt pattern, there isn't much point, you can get most any mustang wheel in the lincoln pattern with better offset for the mark, and for alot less than hubswapping plus buying mustang wheels.

Since I can't find any info on what's needed I don't know what the hub swap would actually cost me.

I haven't been able to find any used 5x4.25 mustang style wheel for this car or an MN12 locally... but Mustang rims are a dime a dozen. I thought this might be the cheaper route and give me a more readily accessible choice of wheels.

Search for username 'baggedtaco' here on the board, his name is brad, and he has cast many custom wheels for our marks in the perfect offset. Very reasonable prices and customer service. Look through the wheel threads, you'll see plenty of his wheels.

I have been wanting to do a hub swap for a while now to. i think the main advantage of the hup swap is being able to use cobra brakes. here is a link i found that might help.

http://members.tccoa.com/dlf/Article.html

I have been wanting to do a hub swap for a while now to. i think the main advantage of the hup swap is being able to use cobra brakes. here is a link i found that might help.

http://members.tccoa.com/dlf/Article.html

You can use the Cobra brakes on the Lincoln hubs too. I'm running mine this way. You can find places that have rotors drilled to our pattern already or have a shop do it for you...

All you need is a drill to run Cobra brakes.... lol.... and a drill bit I geuss....

You could always have a machine shop drill the 5 on 4-1/2" patern onto your Mark hubs

Drilling suspension components scares me.

Is anyone here running redrilled hubs or rotors? I'm concerned about structual rigidity. For example, I've always heard mixed reviews on how much risk there is when using slotted/drilled rotors. Many people say they're fine, others say they're prone to cracking. I'd hate to redrill the hubs and have one crack.

Drilling suspension components scares me.

Is anyone here running redrilled hubs or rotors? I'm concerned about structual rigidity. For example, I've always heard mixed reviews on how much risk there is when using slotted/drilled rotors. Many people say they're fine, others say they're prone to cracking. I'd hate to redrill the hubs and have one crack.

that is exactly what i was thinking.

the reason the crossdrilled rotors are prone to cracking is a high heat condition on what is essentially a perforated rotor. i dont think you will have a problem with drilling the hub portion of the rotor. most of the heat from braking has disapated by the time it reaches the hub portion of the rotor.

Lol... a rotor hat cracking??

I guess everyone needs to worry about something....

that is exactly what i was thinking.

I have both drilled hubs and rotors... I rip the hell out of my car. My rotor hasn't flown off yet hahah.

Lol... a rotor hat cracking??

I guess everyone needs to worry about something....

Uhhh... exactly what is a "rotor hat"? Did you just make that one up? lol

The question was whether or not the rotor would crack under load after you drilled some holes in it. The integrity of a brake rotor on a car is considered important by most... like when you're trying to stop the car so you don't run into something, or kill someone...

:p

I have both drilled hubs and rotors... I rip the hell out of my car. My rotor hasn't flown off yet hahah.

Your sig says "hub swapped"...

the reason the crossdrilled rotors are prone to cracking is a high heat condition on what is essentially a perforated rotor. i dont think you will have a problem with drilling the hub portion of the rotor. most of the heat from braking has disapated by the time it reaches the hub portion of the rotor.


That makes sense...

the answer is no it wont crack.the integrity will be fine .

ive been toying around with this for a while myself. i dont think im going to do the swap. supercoupe performance makes the large sized rotors for the front and the back. as for the rims. i would recommend baggedtaco for your rims. he has a large selection and are the correct bolt pattern and the right offset for the marks. i think that is the way im going with it. as for the cobra calipers. you could bolt them right onto the front spindals now if you wanted.

the rotor "hat" is the raised center portion of the rotor the lug studs go through. lay one flat on the inner side and look at it, kinda looks like a hat. and as for one breaking there, ive only seen/done it on removal on all FoMoCo vehicle none actually broken during driving

*also see sig for brads site*

you should be able to do the swap for $250+ wheels

what up chicki

its not that expensive, you can find front hubs at a junk yard from any 94-04 stang for next to nothing, or you can buy new for about 40 a piece, rears you need new bearings and 99 cobra hubs. bearings about 30 a piece and hubs are about 60 a piece if you can find em. I got my 98 cobra wheels for free so thats why I did it.

There is no way in hell a rotor would fail from just drilling 5 more holes in the "hat"....

Your sig says "hub swapped"...

Well yeah. I put timken cobra hubs up front... That handles mustang front bolt pattern. And then I sent my rear hubs out to be drilled to 5x4.5. Once my hubs came in the mail, I bolted the original studs holes to the rotor holes and drilled through the new holes in the hub into the rotor... Quite easy. That way, I could use my stock rear brakes. You can do the same with your front brakes if you want to keep them stock.

There is no way in hell a rotor would fail from just drilling 5 more holes in the "hat"....

Have you seen the 10 hole rotors.... They make them. The baer big brake kits for t birds and tauras's use the cobra 13 inchers with 2 bolt patterns.

Like I said it isn't going to do anything...

its not that expensive,

like I said about $250
unless you were not referring to my post

Like I said it isn't going to do anything...

But remember. He's using this as a 200mph+ salt flats car.

Lols... I'd do it...

hey markviii93 who drilled your rotors
how much did it cost

hey markviii93 who drilled your rotors
how much did it cost

I drilled them using my newly drilled hubs as a reference. FREEEE!!! But, I paid 75 bucks to get the rear hubs drilled out.

I had a shop drill the front and rear Cobra rotors for me for $80.
I bought the brackets from Fast Ed and it all went together great with the SS lines I got from Classic Tube once they sent the right banjo bolts for the front. It's been working great so far :)
The rear rotors are now the same size as the stock fronts, and the fronts are 13" now. With the Porterfield R4S pads its a big difference :D

I think I'll probably just suck it up and by a new set of 5x4.25 rims.

I had a shop drill the front and rear Cobra rotors for me for $80.
I bought the brackets from Fast Ed and it all went together great with the SS lines I got from Classic Tube once they sent the right banjo bolts for the front. It's been working great so far :)
The rear rotors are now the same size as the stock fronts, and the fronts are 13" now. With the Porterfield R4S pads its a big difference :D

Nice.

But remember. He's using this as a 200mph+ salt flats car.


:bash:

its not just sucking it up unless your looking to put on 20s or something.there are alot of choices for our bolt pattern. using mustang rims the offset will be wrong cuasing either sucked in the wheel well look or a hanging out of the well look.

I wouldn't worry about drilling 5 more holes in a hub or rotor. It has always been a common Hot Rodder mod. Take a look at set of Stange light axles some time. They have holes about an inch in diameter in between the holes for the studs, and they get used on Pro Mods that make a whole lot more power than any Mark on this site. If you do have it done let a Machine shop do the hubs at least. They need to be done with and index fixture so the clocking of the holes are accurate

its not just sucking it up unless your looking to put on 20s or something.there are alot of choices for our bolt pattern. using mustang rims the offset will be wrong cuasing either sucked in the wheel well look or a hanging out of the well look.

LOL WUT? I'm going to buy wheels from AFS for an 05+ stang.

why the hell did they design the lug pattern 5.25 in the first place?

why the hell did they design the lug pattern 4.25 in the first place?


Fixed that for ya

to answer the question? who the hell knows, maybe a disgruntled Engineer

Hubs swaps are extremely cheap if you know what to look for and what works.

I just did it this week. Guy over at the tocca forums sells the rear hubs with caliper relocate bracket new in the box from ford for 225 shipped. Fronts were about 100 bucks, another 60 or so in bearings. In the end, it was about550 bucks for all new parts. Then I got the 17x9 Cobra R gunmetal rims for 399 + shipping. Used michelin mxv4 tires from a friend for $50 and I was right at a grand for the whole thing. Ended up that my rear bearings were pretty worn so it worked out. Took me about 4.5 hours to do it all, including grinding the rear bracket. I'd say its well worth it.:cool:

Oh and by the way, that link over at tocca is a decent guide, but very vauge and there is more to do than it says.