anyone considered trying this? or have any relavent oil analysis showing the effectivness of various oil weights in the 3.9's

Quick LS did a nice research on synthetic and Mobil1 and reported his findings on another form, bottom line Mobil1 0/40 use it if you can find it.

Maybe Quck LS will chime in.

is there a non-synthetic 0w-40?

what about those of use who have leaks, synthetic will just make it worse. especially VCG's

no all 0 weight oils are synthetic, especially one with polymer expansion like 0/40, thanks for the info about quick I pm'd him already, my only concern is that the oil at temp might starve the rings or the chain tentioners

Here's some data I have....

Engine, Differential, Auto-Trans

what the hell is a ".xls" file....

I downsaved it to Excel2003 - viewer here - > http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=c8378bf4-996c-4569-b547-75edbd03aaf0&displaylang=EN

no all 0 weight oils are synthetic, especially one with polymer expansion like 0/40, thanks for the info about quick I pm'd him already, my only concern is that the oil at temp might starve the rings or the chain tentioners

Why would anyone want to run such a thicker oil in a car with clearances as tight as the LS? Personally I wouldn't run anything higher than a 30W.

I use mobile one all the time, but in LS I used 5-30 last time i think. My Mercedes takes Mobil 1 0-40. I had oil change done today. Oil and the filter ran me $80 plus $20 for changing at my mechanic.

the tolerances in our engines are no tighter than any other highperformance engine on the market, besides we use to run 20/50 in our blueprinted race engines o/40 is still 0 weight oil, it just has the flow "characteristics" and load support of a 40 weight at operating temp

the tolerances in our engines are no tighter than any other highperformance engine on the market, besides we use to run 20/50 in our blueprinted race engines o/40 is still 0 weight oil, it just has the flow "characteristics" and load support of a 40 weight at operating temp

I'm not sure what you don't understand about viscosity. At operating temperature, the 0W-40 is going to have nearly the exact viscosity that a straight 40W oil has (or a 10W-40, 5W-40, etc.). It is the polymer additives (viscosity index improvers) that allow the oil to flow as a 40W once the oil has reached operating temperature (by means of the rubber polymers expanding). They are very condensed and balled-up when cold, allowing the flow of a 0W (in the case of 0W-40).

If you think putting high viscosity oils into your LS is such a good idea, then why don't you drop in some 20W-50 and get back with us after tearing your engine down at 40,000 miles (if it hasn't already worn out by then). There's a reason the engineers recommend a certain weight oil for a certain engine.

Ford flat-rates 20w oil due to fuel economy reasons & chain tentioners, they take longer to pump up with anything over 20w, and most will go 100k-150k miles with no moderate wear, however I can assure you as a veteran engine builder, 20w oil does not have the load support necessary for total protection in most v8/v10 engines, especially from ford, I find it insanely difficult to believe that ford engines are ok with 20w while the majority of all other high performance / close tolerance engine manufacturers in the world are using heavier oils & getting more good miles out of their vehicles, and in all honestly in my opinion the rotating assembly of the aj35 in stock form with stock cylinder pressures & loads is just fine with 20w oil, due to its abnormally high oil pressure characteristics, sheering & scuffing are very minimal, the d.a.m.b valavetain is not however, the scary part is, is that every damb equipped engine that ford uses currently, can technically have the entire valvetrain replaced by 45k miles, all current ford engines are considered by ford to be "zero wear" meaning that if you can find any measureable wear on anything, meaning usually .001-.003" its junk and justifiably replaceable

Ford flat-rates 20w oil due to fuel economy reasons & chain tentioners, they take longer to pump up with anything over 20w, and most will go 100k-150k miles with no moderate wear, however I can assure you as a veteran engine builder, 20w oil does not have the load support necessary for total protection in most v8/v10 engines, especially from ford, I find it insanely difficult to believe that ford engines are ok with 20w while the majority of all other high performance / close tolerance engine manufacturers in the world are using heavier oils & getting more good miles out of their vehicles, and in all honestly in my opinion the rotating assembly of the aj35 in stock form with stock cylinder pressures & loads is just fine with 20w oil, due to its abnormally high oil pressure characteristics, sheering & scuffing are very minimal, the d.a.m.b valavetain is not however, the scary part is, is that every damb equipped engine that ford uses currently, can technically have the entire valvetrain replaced by 45k miles, all current ford engines are considered by ford to be "zero wear" meaning that if you can find any measureable wear on anything, meaning usually .001-.003" its junk and justifiably replaceable


Holy crap that is a serious wall of text. Does your keyboard have a period key? If so, try using it here and there, others may be able to read what you're saying without wanting to gouge their eyes out.

haha sorry about that