Has anyone ever replaced the motor for the rear power window? If so, how hard is it and how do you get the door panel off the inside and the motor out? Any suggestions would be great.

At least you know what's wrong. A detailed removal of the door panel can be found here http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=3922

It deals more with the regulator assembly, But you have to follow all of the steps in it to take off the door panel, and the metal plate that holds almost everything on the door. The motor is just another few bolts to take off.

At least you know what's wrong. A detailed removal of the door panel can be found here http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=3922

It deals more with the regulator assembly, But you have to follow all of the steps in it to take off the door panel, and the metal plate that holds almost everything on the door. The motor is just another few bolts to take off.

I am pretty sure its the motor. Right now I have cardboard holding it in place. If it was not there the window would fall to the bottom. If I press the button for it to move it sounds weak and there is a grinding type noise. Could it be something else and would you recomend taking it to a shop or is a DIY project? Thanks for the info.

You can pull the motor off of the regulator assembly (the track the window is physically attached to, or what looks to be a compound bow used for hunting). Just three star screws hold it on, and then it twists off. Then test to see if the motor works, and check the cable that runs around the regulator.

Both the motor and regulator are DIY projects that take about 1 hr. My window sounded weak, but when I took everything apart I realized it was the regulator.

I hope this helps, I'm not the best at explaining things.

You can pull the motor off of the regulator assembly (the track the window is physically attached to, or what looks to be a compound bow used for hunting). Just three star screws hold it on, and then it twists off. Then test to see if the motor works, and check the cable that runs around the regulator.

Both the motor and regulator are DIY projects that take about 1 hr. My window sounded weak, but when I took everything apart I realized it was the regulator.

I hope this helps, I'm not the best at explaining things.

Thanks

You can pull the motor off of the regulator assembly (the track the window is physically attached to, or what looks to be a compound bow used for hunting). Just three star screws hold it on, and then it twists off. Then test to see if the motor works, and check the cable that runs around the regulator.

Both the motor and regulator are DIY projects that take about 1 hr. My window sounded weak, but when I took everything apart I realized it was the regulator.

I hope this helps, I'm not the best at explaining things.

Is this a problem on the 00 LS's? My car is still under warrenty as far as mileage but not as far as the year. I was going to try and get the dealer to cover it. Especially if it seems its a common problem.

The parts guy at my dealership said this was fairly common. They apparently improved the design for later years.


Definitely try to get it covered under warranty. I didn't have that option because my car has 78k miles on it.

The parts guy at my dealership said this was fairly common. They apparently improved the design for later years.


Definitely try to get it covered under warranty. I didn't have that option because my car has 78k miles on it.

Thanks again. I might give the dealer some of this info if they refuse to cover it.

This was a VERY common problem for the rear windows on the 00-02 LS - but it was the plastic clip of the regulator that broke - not the motor. Ford issued a TSB and the part was redesigned.

I had both rear break and repaired with the newer design under warranty.

Yeah... you'll be happy to know the motor is 72 bucks, and the regulator is 35... so at least you're not taking it too badly... Somewhere on here I posted an overly detailed explanation on how to... It's not bad though.

Nevermind... SurfJX pointed ya to it...

Ask tghe dealer to cover under the after warranty adjustment policy. All they can say is no. They offer AWAs up to 75k miles not sure about any aging limitations.

And then after I put in the new regulator, the switch also was bad. Always UP. Another $50. Where do I get Lincoln parts at a reasonable price?

I use:
Mr. Torrie R. McPhail - (Owner)

http://www.fordpartsnetwork.com (http://www.fordpartsnetwork.com/)

SCT Custom Chip / Flasher dealer

Dynojet WideBand Commander dealer

Wide Band Dyno tuning services now available

Dyno shop # 904-819-9637



He deals with a lot of LS owners.

Mine was $35 from the dealership.

pm mrzee in the LVC forums they are the featured ford parts, 5stare, folks on the right hand side of the page. Great folks and excellent prices.

I was adding posts at lincolnforums.com but get no replys for many days. I'm here to stay.

This was a VERY common problem for the rear windows on the 00-02 LS - but it was the plastic clip of the regulator that broke - not the motor. Ford issued a TSB and the part was redesigned.

I had both rear break and repaired with the newer design under warranty.


i am having the same problem with my window, it broke last week and i am trying to find a new motor for it, i took the door panel off and i can see a little plastic thing grinding in there on the motor, the cable was all tangle up and the window dose not go up and down, do you have any suggestions??