Can anybody post an expolded view of the door latch assembley pointing out the door ajar switch? I've unpluged something and shorted it out but the ajar light still comes on. Any help?
Larry
94 - 4:56 with no mufflers

Did you try liberally spraying the door latch mechanisms with penetrating oil, then opening and closing multiple times to free up the switches?

I can't find an exploded diagram of the lock, but there is a 'how to' thread for replacing the switches. (only thing is the pics have expired, but it may help you anyway)

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=24406

Not just a MarkVIII thing. Just picked up a 96Sable. Guy told me the alarm goes off by itself sometimes. I asked if the door ajar lite was on and he said it wasn't working. Wasn't working meant stuck on. Few sprays of WD40 in the front driver door...nothing. Few sprays in the rear drivers side door. Lite goes out....

i have this problem on my ls and i sprayed with the oil.. No go. I then noticed that when i put good pressure on the left foot rest next to pedels it would come on. i pulled carpet back and there was a electrical panel where four plugs plugged into. I jiggled wires and i got the door ajar beep but coulndt seem to isolate. Pulled each plug individually but no go. So i put everything back and noticed my advance track light and engine light was on.. I then removed negative battery cable to reset computer and all lights warning lights went off. have had no problems since. cant explain it though cuz i actually didnt fix anything

here ya go

http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejmiles_t/Car/Door_Ajar_Fix/PinSwitchOrientation.jpg
It's oriented like this, but inside the door.

just unplugging the switch will turn out the light, the light is on when the circuit is completed to ground

Problem solved. Door ajar light is out.
Larry

I've just begun having problems with my door ajar switch,

Spraying the latch with WD-40 is suggested by several people, however if you look at the drawings posted by mrzeee you will see the switch is mounted on the inside of the latch so the latch mechanism blocks it from the outside of the door. Because of this you would be lucky if any of the WD-40 would reach the switch.

The switch is actuated by a horizontal plunger that rides on a cam operated by the door latch (which also blocks spray from the outside). The most effective way of getting to the switch is to bite the bullet ans pull the door panel. That way you can free the plunger and relube the cam effectively.

Go right ahead with doing that... I would at least try the lube first though...

it will reach the switch, spray plenty in there and it will work its way through. the thing most forget is to slam the door repeatedly to work the switch free, i do this everyday at work to see what switch is sticking. sometimes you have one that is far too corroded to free up

definitly give the spray a chance, pushing the latch into the closed position first will give you a better shot

remember to unlatch it before closing the door!

I know that my first though on how to go about fixing something is to try the hardest thing first....

Have a problem too, but do not get the 'door open' message when they're physically closed.

Yet I have this problem ( http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00169.html ) where the keyless entry doesn't work after a while.

Is this the same switch that's causing that problem, and it's merely sticky?

Been having this problem as well. Taking the door panal off isn't tough. I sparyed the latch with a lot of wd40 and slammed the door a couple times (havn't done it with the latch closed) and it didn't fix anything. It sucks because since the daylight savings time change, stupid ford doesnt let you change the clock with the door ajar. Fail!

LOL .... hmmm looks like a new post LOL...