in all honesty, how much time and money do you guys think it would cost to get a stock 95 to get 400+ rwhp and 400+rwtq? ( deciding factor in keeping the car)

Blower,nitrous or turbo... it's gonna be serious and even then you better beef up the rotating elements. You're gonna have to get 500+ HP at the crank IMHO. Remember you only have 281 cubes to work with and that automatic and IRS will eat up about 20% in parasitic losses. Like they say... Do The Math.

...whats the max we can get the blocks rebored to?

Your best bet is to find another motor at a salvage yard or something, and rebuild it, strap a supercharger (easiest), and maybe some NOS. The bottom end will have to be beefed up to put up with that much HP at the crank, because just like what driller said, it will be 500+ crank HP because you lose anywhere from 20-25% thru the drivetrain. It is not impossible, but you will need a motor that can handle it....and you can do a stroker kit while you are at it, and you will have a 5.0 instead of a 4.6 with the stroker.

I would not try to do 500 crank HP with a motor with high mileage without doing a rebuild on it so that you KNOW that you have what it takes to keep the motor for a while. There is a guy on here that ran 12.91 with just a SC (of course he had to put on a cobra intake manifold) and he had 348RWHP (dyno'd). Now that is a stock motor with a different manifold, and a super charger. So, it can be done, but I would recommend rebuilding a motor first to put that much punishment into it. :Beer

....okie dokey. in that case does anyone know the dimensions of the engine bay?

With a new hood you could do a 1.7 kennebell or with the stock hood a Vortech setup. I prefer the twin-screw of the kb for the instant torque response, which these 4000lb beasts definitely need.

$?

Alot, Here is what i have in the engine right now.



3,600 For the Kenne Bell

3,200 for my stroker rotating assyembly (sp)

1,000 For the block machine work

1,300 to have larger valves cut in the heads, and to purchase stainless race valves and titanium locks.

1,200 for the cams,

These parts are just for the engine, I havent gotten my t-56 yet, so you can add another 2800 for that. I'm doing the porting work myself, as I have the tools and the shop to do it. I'm prolly saving another 900-1000 Bucks right there.

I am hoping all of this will add up to 500 at the wheels, if it does'nt, I'm gonna spray the SOB to that number.

Mike

I am hoping all of this will add up to 500 at the wheels, if it does'nt, I'm gonna spray the SOB to that number.

Mike

good aditude! :Beer

Alot, Here is what i have in the engine right now.



3,600 For the Kenne Bell

3,200 for my stroker rotating assyembly (sp)

1,000 For the block machine work

1,300 to have larger valves cut in the heads, and to purchase stainless race valves and titanium locks.

1,200 for the cams,

These parts are just for the engine, I havent gotten my t-56 yet, so you can add another 2800 for that. I'm doing the porting work myself, as I have the tools and the shop to do it. I'm prolly saving another 900-1000 Bucks right there.

I am hoping all of this will add up to 500 at the wheels, if it does'nt, I'm gonna spray the SOB to that number.

Mike

theres a kb application for the mark viii? or do you have to modify something?

Alot, Here is what i have in the engine right now.
3,600 For the Kenne Bell
3,200 for my stroker rotating assyembly (sp)
1,000 For the block machine work
1,300 to have larger valves cut in the heads, and to purchase stainless race valves and titanium locks.
1,200 for the cams,
MikeThat some serious coinage there Mike.

Mr. Wilson. If you are serious, here is what I'd do.

1st off, the ring lands are the weak link in the block. Too much boost and bye bye engine. That said, the driveline loss is not a consistent % as the power goes up. It only takes so much power to overcome the friction loses in the drivetrain. So less than 500 to get 400. 400 might be a bit lofty on a stock block but toss in some steeper gears and it will feel like more.

The KenneBell is pretty straightforward. You want one for a 96-98 Cobra, not a GT. They are $3600 new but you can find a few guys looking to trade up so may be able to pick one up for less. You will need a new hood to clear the supercharger but you may want one of those cowl hoods which seem to be popular on the marks anyway. Or go Vortech for the same money and just a slight mod on the stock hood.

I like the Gen I intake and the 'b' 4 valve heads are pretty good as is when used in a blown situation. For an N/A car, I would probably do a complete upgrade of cams, intake,etc, but then your spending the same amount of money and getting less hp than with the blower. I'd leave them alone. there are gains to be made in the intake and cams area but you are blowing anyway, so that will hide some of their deficiencies. The heads are pretty close in performance to any other 4 valve head (within reason) but as long as they are of the engine, you might send them out to be ported and gasket matched (will then flow more than other stock "c", FR500 and 03 heads) A j-mod to the tranny set to the 350-400 level should keep the shifts firm enough to save the clutches but an upgraded tranny in the future would not hurt.

Set the boost to not exceed 8-9 psi and go out and enjoy the car. Run good gas, get a really good tune or a calibrated chip and run it till it dies. Same for the tranny. You can always pull them later, in the case of the engine and drop in a decent shortblock using yours for a core credit and for the tranny, take it to a guy or seek out one of the guys that sells the upgraded, bulletproof tranny with the rear oiling, extra plate, etc.