Ok well I've finished the jmod and got the car back together. The shifts are faster, and it shifts into every gear, but under light to moderate throttle it seems reluctant to shift into 2nd. Under WOT it wont shift into 2nd at all it just bounces off the rev limiter until I back off the throttle, then shifts like its supposed to. Why is this?

not to be a jerk, but this is the reason why im saving the money for the shift kit.

not to be a jerk, but this is the reason why im saving the money for the shift kit.

Are you kidding me? The jmod was designed by one of the original designers of the 4r70W, and has been sucesfully used on thousands of cars. That being said, if you do it to a weak tranny, or do it wrong it won't work.

Ok well I should have specified I did the 1-2, 2-3 accumulator upgrade at the same time so it could be something there as well. Ive searched everywhere but cant seem to figure out what I might have done wrong.

Sounds like the MLPS wires and or plug may have gotten tweaked while you did the mod. Were you careful in the re-assemble of these, check to see if they are ok. Did you get the Valve body and rooster comb back in correct position.

not to be a jerk, but this is the reason why im saving the money for the shift kit.

j-mod > shift kit

j-mod > shift kit

+1

BEcontrols > better shift kit.

Fluid level good? How well did you clean the valve body. Any spec of dirt in side there will mess these things up.

Sounds like the MLPS wires and or plug may have gotten tweaked while you did the mod. Were you careful in the re-assemble of these, check to see if they are ok. Did you get the Valve body and rooster comb back in correct position.

Fluid level is fine. I made certain the valve body and rooster comb were back in the right position, are the MLPS wires the ones that were connected to the valve body? I'm pretty certain all the connectors are in the right places, could something be loose on the other end of them?

how many of you have a shift kit?

I

so you have a shift kit but say the jmod is better?

I had a 93 for about 5 years and did a TransGo when I first got it with 1-2 and 2-3 fixes and Mercon 5, including draining the TC-After that one was totaled by a genius driver who turned in front of me like I was invisible, I got my 96-had all the same trans problems my 93 had, did the exact same mod-now it, like my 93, barks second and I get an occasional chirp in third-it is fun, was easy, and did not cost alot. Lots swear by the J-Mod, I like my shift kit and it makes sense they are just different versions of the same thing. Mine worked perfectly two times now.

how many of you have a shift kit?

Me, but I am probably going to ditch the current one for a baumann. :)

the manual valve body?

Anybody unbiased ever compare trans temperatures between a shift kitted car and j-modded car, same day, same track? Serious question. I'd believe trans temp would be cooler w J mod. Shift kits raise fluid pressure. If I'm correct, J mod allows it to flow so you don't need the raise in fluid pressure? Right? So wouldn't the J mod be much more efficient, and healthier?

i was under the impression a shift kit is the jmod already predone with the valve body modified as well.

what ive read is people with the jmod saying : jerry designed the tranny ergo his mod is the ONLY way to go. and shift kits mess up your tranny.

and the people with shift kits say, shift kit comes in the mail and is very easy to install no drilling happy. Ive also heard read on a shift kit site that it modifies the actually valve body to compliment the j-mod type thing they already do for you.

Now if im wrong im wrong, but look i wouldn't mind spending a hundred bucks to now that I have everything done precise and all i have to do is replace the part that is modded with a fresh new piece that's been professional done.

i dont want to be one of those guys doing the jmod that comes on here and things don't go right, seems to happen a lot. but if someone can prove that the JMOD is better than a shift kit, be my guest. I havn't done either because im still unsure on what is the best thing to do. So I'm not sitting here wit a shift kit saying dont do the jmod or vice versa. I think we can all agree that something has to be done because the shifts are clumsy and lazy.

im leaning towards shift kit. The argument the shift kit has is that its going to be done right, but a jmod relys on you. but the jmod is free the shift kit isn't!

The real question is the success to failure rate ratio of each. There is no reason the JMod can go wrong unless the installer does something wrong. Same goes for boxed shift kit, there are placed to mess up and people do.

Regardless, each to their own. I am happy with my JMod as others are happy with a Bauman kit.

But to get back on topic. It sounds initially like a MLPS issue as mentioned. I would check that first before taking things apart.

yea didnt mean to go off topic but you make one little mistake wit the jmod and you need a new valve body right? doesnt the shift kit come with a whole new valve body? maybe ill attempt the jmod if it doesnt go right ill just fork over the money for the new valve body all done up = shift kit right?

yea didnt mean to go off topic but you make one little mistake wit the jmod and you need a new valve body right? doesnt the shift kit come with a whole new valve body? maybe ill attempt the jmod if it doesnt go right ill just fork over the money for the new valve body all done up = shift kit right?

The JMod has nothing to do with the valve body. Just the plate. Most kits do not come with a valve body, that would increase the cost a bit for sure.

All the JMod requires is drilling holes in the separator plate larger than they are to reduce line pressures. Its intimidating but once you do it one realizes how little work there is. I think it took me ten minutes. Two eyes help to verify drill bit sizes and location. I marked my plate with marker, put the drill size net to each hole. A friended double checked and off I went.

The j mod and the BE controls shift kit's dont raise fluid pressure the trans go dose. I still added a good trans cool to mine. Mine never got hotter then a stock one and I have a stall.

OK well I dont think the jmod caused the problem. After driving the car some more, it seems the only problem is with the 1-2 shift. All the other shifts, downshifts and 2-3 work fine. So this suggests I may have installed the 1-2 accumulator wrong. I really thought I had it in right, but perhaps I put the cap in upside down. I read about someone doing that on an F150 forum and getting similar symptoms. Anyone know?

Also, should I buy a new catch pan to use if I want to re-use the tranny fluid now (since I just put new fluid in last weekend)?

Slightly unrelated, but does anyone know where to get caliper anchor bracket bolts? The dealership, murrays, and autozone dont have them and I need one right away.

i have the update and the j-mod done aswell.always shifts firm,really firm if manualy shifted.

as posted before part by me part by driller
BE controls shift kit does NOT increase the line pressure it also comes with the new Elevated Pressure Regulator spring and valve. A full manual not internet directions also has special instructions for 92-95 and 96-up AODE/4R70W transmissions. They also have a support line if you get into some problems.Yes Baumann was also an ENGINEER for the trans.


as for the 1-2 go here and look at page one and did you upgrade to the new piston http://imageevent.com/driller/baumannshiftkit?z=9&c=5&n=1&m=30&w=4&x=0&p=0

OK well I think I found the problem. Dropped the pan, and found the snap ring partially out of the bore. I dont know how it got dislodged or if I didnt put it in all the way, but I remember checking and it appeared to be inserted evenly on all sides. Im planning to simply re install it.

Since I just put new trans fluid in last weekend, and used a brand new catch pan tonight, can I re-use this fluid or is it worthless once its out of the car?

I would re-use the fluid. I dont see why not.

If I recall correctly there were to sets of grooves for that snap ring, and it needs to go in the groove thats farther into the bore.

if youre still question what to go with just find a fewq cars with the j-mod and whatever shift kit you want. drive them and see how they act.

i took a friend for a ride who went thru 5 different shift kits on his mustang before he found 1 acceptable. under light throttle he didnt believe me when i told him i did anything to the trans. it shifted at the proper points without hanging up or slamming into gear. when we got on the highway i nailed it, broke loose and got sideways in 2nd, scratched third. he was impressed that it could be so docile on side streets and still hit like that under WOT.

the jmod takes 10 minutes?

the jmod takes 10 minutes?

The Jmod itself, yes. All your doing is drilling holes. Easy as can be.

The total project take avarying amount of time depending on your epuipment and how anal you are.

I would set aside 2-4 hours depending on those things. It took me 2 hours to change my valvebody and I was going slow and careful.

why did you change your valve body?

I bought one that had been profesionally disasembled, cleaned, jmioded, and reasembled.

I bought one that had been profesionally disasembled, cleaned, jmioded, and reasembled.

Why do people think that something has to be done to the valve body for the JMod? I dont get it. lol

you mod the valve body for a becontrols unit maby that is what they did

I was just nervous about doing the actual jmod, it was for my DD and I absolutley could not have the tranny get messed up in any way. A few extra $ for a lot of confidence and security was VERY worth it to me.

does a shift kit come with the newer style pistons and accumualator springs?

Ask the people from where you are going to get it, Im sure they are all different.

Did the snap ring end up fixing it?

If you buy a kit, or the valve body from Darrin at BC auot you get all new cumulators and everything else you will need.

www.bc-automotive.com

Yea, but keep in mind the accumulators are not in the valve body, so you need to swap them.

hey guys while we are on this subject of our 4r70w trans,,,my 93 markVIII chirps(gets rubber)the tires when I shift from first to second myself when getting down,does it mean I have a jmod already or need one someone said my accum.needs to be replaced??trans seems to work fine

please delite this

hey guys while we are on this subject of our 4r70w trans,,,my 93 markVIII chirps(gets rubber)the tires when I shift from first to second myself when getting down,does it mean I have a jmod already or need one someone said my accum.needs to be replaced??trans seems to work fine

sounds like your 1-2 shift accumulator spring is broken

sounds like your 1-2 shift accumulator spring is broken

Which means your trans will likely fail w/out any warning if you keep leaving rubber on your 1-2 shift.

Then you'll be cruising around in first gear unable to shift trying to limp the car home until the trans gets hot and you lose first.

Which means your trans will likely fail w/out any warning if you keep leaving rubber on your 1-2 shift.

Then you'll be cruising around in first gear unable to shift trying to limp the car home until the trans gets hot and you lose first.

Learned from experience?

Figured I'd post up the conclusion to the original topic. I re-inserted the snap ring and now everything works fine. Shifts are crisper but not harsh. The car wont chirp the tires on the 1-2, but I no longer find myself twiddling my thumbs while I wait for the car to shift.

good to here