finally time to tackle this project. i am using the how to off of tccoa's site. is this the BEST info out there? is there anything else i should know? thanks.

Just know its A LOT easier than it looks. Drop the plate and drill holes. I recommend you uses a marker and mark each hole with the size drill bit you need. New drill bits are best. Have someone verify the sizes and correspondence to the existing holes. Keep drill level, a press works best. Any side movement may make the hole larger.

If you find a yellow plug in the pan, its nothing - tose it.

When you think you've got all the fluid out and are gonna bring the pan all the way out, theres still fluid in there. Get ready for a bath.

1. When you lower the valve body be aware that there are some check balls and a small filter screen that you will find in the channels. Don't loose these, get the VB to a table so that you can note their position before you start the plate brake down.
2. Get lots of brake cleaner to keep things clean.
3. Make sure you have a large size snap ring pliers.
4. Be careful with the wiring as it is brittle.
5. Drain the TC also.
6. I installed a B&M pain drain kit so I drilled a small hole to drain my tranny.
7. Make sure you have the VB Gaskets, and plate gaskets. Your filter (if it is a good one ) should have a rubber gasket with it (reusable)
8. Take your time, it is not hard to do, but the benefits will be very worth while.

thanks guys. im going to hold off til tomorrow when i have more time. i dont want to rush.... i spent the last hour trying to locate all the right drill bits. on the tccoa site for the drill bit sizes it lists two columns(one for mild and one for 300-450 hp) i have a stock 97lsc. should i stick with the mild or just go with the 300-450hp? i got the bits for the mild right now. dont know what the difference would be(even more snap?)

It all depends on how hard you want it to shift, the bigger the holes and the less/lighter the springs the harder it will shift.

Snap your fingers, snap your neck!:headbang: my back end swings out on first and seconed shift! But I have the BE Controls shift kit.

Go 300 - 450

I went with the 300 to 450. definatly worth it.
better than doing the low one and then wanting more.

Unless your putting out more power there will be little difference, if any.

Unless your putting out more power there will be little difference, if any.

little difference between mild and 300-450? if so, it wont hurt to go with the 300-450 at all, will it? i do plan on some other mods(no power adders though)so might as well go with the 300-450? thanks.

You can do whatever you want. Its when you go mild and have 400 HP thrown at it you wont get the exact results you should. Since you stock. Go with 300 to 450 since that covers your butt. My only point is that you could do all of them and with a stock setup you wont notice anything. Make sense? Thats why its setup that way, by HP numbers, not by "responsiveness", "shift speed", etc.

Have fun and let us know how it turns out!

Oh forgot to add, try to add a cooler. It helps the life of the tranny a lot.

Indeed. This is the time to add one!

also good time to swap to the deeper pan if your car isnt already equiped

Where's the link to this mod from TCCOA? What's the deal on the BE shift kit? Which is better? Will you really not see any diff in shift firmness if the car is stock?

Where's the link to this mod from TCCOA? What's the deal on the BE shift kit? Which is better? Will you really not see any diff in shift firmness if the car is stock?

When I j-modded my 97 t-bird, it could chirp first and second shifts stock.... so that's a big difference to me. You can find the articles to do this in the tccoa.com tech articles under tranny. The first three articles are all on the j-mod. It's a lot of reading but it's important to read all of it.

Here ya go:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html#

Third section "Jerry's Modifications" = JMod.

I don't see any drill specs for a 93. Would they be the same as 94?

Yes.

I don't see any drill specs for a 93. Would they be the same as 94?Bear in mind, that page is primarily written for Thunderbirds, and Cougars which didn't get a 4R70W till that model year.

thats why im just going to get a shift kit, wayyyy to much misinformation on the internet.

Most shift kits will kill a 4r70w. The j-mod is more simple, cheaper, and it will give better performance, and prolong the life of the transmission.

my point exactly

Most shift kits will kill a 4r70w. The j-mod is more simple, cheaper, and it will give better performance, and prolong the life of the transmission.

I beg to differ, heat is what kills a tranny most shift kits including the j-mod (BECAUSE IT IS A SHIFT KIT!) when done proporly will help the transmission longevity by decreasing the time the clutch packs are engaged.

A tq converter with out the proper cooler wiil do way more damage then a shift kit. A j-mod is cheaper but the proper shift kit will be more efective.

I have driven a mark with 4.10s and the j-mod vs a mark viii with 4.10s and a shift kit, I would say that the one with the kit in it had a crisper shift and pounded through the gears better with more of a response to the throttle.

As far as I have been told most shift-kits work by increasing pressure. The JMod, which was designed by one of the ENGINEERS of the trans, does the opposite and reduces line pressures in critical areas. The JMod is not all about better shifts, its about extending the trans life. A shift kit is just meant to speed up shifts.

like i was saying about misinformation...

like i was saying about misinformation...

Did you even read the articles on TCCoA?

Where's the link to this mod from TCCOA? What's the deal on the BE shift kit? Which is better? Will you really not see any diff in shift firmness if the car is stock?

Most shift kits will kill a 4r70w. The j-mod is more simple, cheaper, and it will give better performance, and prolong the life of the transmission.

After you read the J-mod instructions, look here (http://imageevent.com/driller/baumannshiftkit)for the Baumann kit instructions and judge for yourself.

As far as I have been told most shift-kits work by increasing pressure. The JMod, which was designed by one of the ENGINEERS of the trans, does the opposite and reduces line pressures in critical areas. The JMod is not all about better shifts, its about extending the trans life. A shift kit is just meant to speed up shifts.

BE controls shift kit does NOT increase the line pressure it also comes with the new Elevated Pressure Regulator spring and valve. A full manual not internet directions also has special instructions for 92-95 and 96-up AODE/4R70W transmissions. They also have a support line if you get into some problems.Yes Baumann was also an ENGINEER for the trans.