Long story as short as possible. 20yr oldStep son bought 2000 ls off Craigslist because it "looked good". I don't think he even listened or opened the hood. Being a Traditional Chevy man I wasn't sure what he had but i knew it had a clicking sound comming from the front right bank. I asked if it had that noise when he bought it he points out how good it looks. Before we could even address that it quits running on him and he has it towed home. Checked fuel pressure and replaced the fuel pump.Pulled off the covers and coils and changed the plugs.All holes and boots were oil filled. all were very wet. Front right plug was not even finger tight. (I think that was the clicking sound). 1 coil mount is broke. Cleaned up & reassembled. Got it started once but backfired thru the intake repeatedly. Now can't get to start again. I noticed when he was cranking he was holding throttle wide open. Don't know how much starting like that he has tried to do. No codes are currently present. Original codes were many misfires and a p0320. Any suggestions other than the obvious.(arson is illegal) How do you check a coil? How do you start a flooded FI car?

any help appreciated
sstinman

Oil in wells = bad Valve Cover gaskets. Here's how to replace:

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/Valve_Cover_Seal_Inspection/Valve-Cover-Seal.htm

You'll probably want to replace all coils too. That should get it running good for a while.

I'd just give the car some time if it's flooded. That's what has worked for me in the past.

Welcome to LVC, by the way :D

Wow

Clicking sound? was it pinging from sub 91 octane gasoline?

I hoped you kicked your son's butt to teach him a lesson lol.

But yeah vc gaskets need to be changed and new coil packs, simple job and won't break the bank.

Clicking sound? was it pinging from sub 91 octane gasoline?
no more like a weak lifter on startup but with stethescope isolated to front cyl right bank. I think (hope) it was the loose plug leaking

[QUOTI hoped you kicked your son's butt to teach him a lesson lol.
E][/QUOTE]
That is between him & his mom. If he was my son I would. If I went into all that that though it would make this another type support type website

Holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking will clear the fuel. At WOT while cranking shuts off the fuel injectors. He should NOT touch the gas pedal when starting!!!!! Let the computer do it's job.
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I noticed when he was cranking he was holding throttle wide open.
Tell him it isn't carburetted and that wont help.

Clicking sound on the front of the right bank. How many miles are on this car? Assuming this has the 3.9 it could be a timing chain tensioner getting ready to go. (Ive heard of this on several accounts on the 2000 models) Or it may have already. Got it started once but backfired thru the intake repeatedly. Now can't get to start again.

P0320: Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction.
Not sure what that entails, sounds like a bad crank or cam position sensor maybe.

How do you check a coil?
Replace it. Here's all 8 on Ebay, supposedly these are Ford OEM parts, which normally go for about $65 to $80 EACH. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-FORD-IGNITION-COIL-2000-2006-LINCOLN-LS-V8-DG515_W0QQitemZ160225033954QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m160225033954

Clicking sound on the front of the right bank. How many miles are on this car? Assuming this has the 3.9 it could be a timing chain tensioner getting ready to go. (Ive heard of this on several accounts on the 2000 models) Or it may have already.

i pulled the valve cover off tonight the timing chain is off the intake sprocket. Haven't gotten any further so i don't know what turned loose exactly yet. Must have jumped first when it quit on him then totally kicked it off when we got it started Saturday and it was running ang backfiring so bad. I wouldn't think you could even get it started at all if it was off completely from the start. Well I guess i will get some experience on Fords afterall. Havn't had one of my own in 45 years. Working on my Corvette which dosen't need anything is more to my liking. Does anyone know of any specific forums or tech info on changing and realigning the timing chains etc.

hi all,
my 2000 ls has a "ronking" noise coming from the engine when ever im not taping the gas, it seems like when in park its a little quiet, but when i put it in drive i can definitely here it, but as soon as i just tap the gas it goes away.
what can this be?

Tell him it isn't carburetted and that wont help.

Clicking sound on the front of the right bank. How many miles are on this car? Assuming this has the 3.9 it could be a timing chain tensioner getting ready to go. (Ive heard of this on several accounts on the 2000 models) Or it may have already.

P0320: Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction.
Not sure what that entails, sounds like a bad crank or cam position sensor maybe.


Replace it. Here's all 8 on Ebay, supposedly these are Ford OEM parts, which normally go for about $65 to $80 EACH. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-FORD-IGNITION-COIL-2000-2006-LINCOLN-LS-V8-DG515_W0QQitemZ160225033954QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m160225033954

I have ordered 8 online but these you are showing are the ones with the disclaimer about the flange inside that I saw the problem in a post here somewhere. See previous post as to the real problem on this ls. but I am still replacing the coils and valve cover gaskets during this fix.

i dont see any disclaimer on that page...

sstinman, reference this thread (http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=39534), that link is the correct one, the flanged coils come from world auto-parts.

i dont see any disclaimer on that page...

my mistake these are the ones i have on order. It was another with the disclaimer

pulled the valve cover off tonight the timing chain is off the intake sprocket.I cant believe I called that! I must be good or something! :p

I only copied the link to the ones on Ebay from a thread here posted by someone who had purchased and installed them in their car already.

I believe you may need to pull the head and replace some valves to get it back right. New chains on both sides couldn't hurt. And replace ALL the tensioners.

sounds like fun :rolleyes:

no news

Man, I'm really sorry to hear about your luck!! I would say it's a tensioner problem. As stated earlier, it stands a very good chance you had valves contact pistons. These engines have very high (for factory) compression ratios; I don't know if these engines have valve reliefs in the pistons, or if they do how big they are... but I'd just assume the worst and pull the head. Sounds like your step son might have bought someone else's problem!

Since this type of issue seems to be relatively popular in the last week, maybe you would consider doing a short writeup on how to replace the chains and tensioners? Could be useful info for the Tech Articles section.

Since this type of issue seems to be relatively popular in the last week, maybe you would consider doing a short writeup on how to replace the chains and tensioners? Could be useful info for the Tech Articles section.

I read through the procedure on doing this, and it is anything but short. We'll see how the step-dad approaches this, but in my opinion, you'd be selling yourself short if you event attempted to do this without the service manual. I wouldn't wish that job on my worst enemy, going by what the service manual and the step-dad has already stated, just getting through the tear-down. Assuming you can get your hands on the special tools for holding the engine crankshaft and camshafts in their service positions, you're also faced with a drawn-out valve lash setup using shims.

There may be some light at the end of the tunnel, though. If timing belt tensioners can be found to be wearing out and replaced before catastrophic failure ensues, the job may be a bit less technical, with the elimination of head and valve repair, but that is just my guess.

I consider myself capable of handling most anything Mechanical by evaluating what is there and logically working myself thru it. A manual is good for reference and specs. But if you are only working step by step from a manual and can't see what needs to happen as you go you probably shouldn't be in there in the first place. Electronics and computers are another issue. you need some guidance and test equipment there. As I stated in an eairlier post I have been tackling automotive repairs as a necessary hobbie for over 50 years. Although this is a complex teardown with a lot of overkill like hydraulic cooling fan and such that is much more difficult to clear out and reinstall it is still nuts and bolts, logic and patience. This has been slower to wrap a fix around due to no aftermarket parts and I had to get past the stupidity of having a kid buy somthing because "it looked good". I will let you know the end results but am sure with more time I will put this thing back on the road probably in better shape than it has been in quite a while.

So, SSTman
Where are you on the LS project?

Picking up last chain guide today. I plan to be running tommorow. It has to go back together eaiser than it came apart. Probably don't need those hard to reach bolts anyway. Just kidding. Lots of parts to reassemble though.

Hey you mind if I ask how many miles were on the vehicle??

I cant believe I called that! I must be good or something! :p

I only copied the link to the ones on Ebay from a thread here posted by someone who had purchased and installed them in their car already.

I believe you may need to pull the head and replace some valves to get it back right. New chains on both sides couldn't hurt. And replace ALL the tensioners.

how much would the parts and labor cost for a job like that?
mine just started making this noise too :(

And I forgot to say WOW! This car is in about the same shape as mine. I have a 2000 with 139k miles. Just so you know you might have to replace the valve covers and the gaskets. I replaced my gaskets but sure enough a few months later same problem with oil in spark plug hole cutting out engine :( Theres so many noises coming from my engine Im not sure whats what. Im thinking a whole engine sway with less miles would be easier and more reliable at this point.

labor would be astronomical for this. You have to remove the front cover of your engine. In order to do that, you have to remove a LOAD of parts from the engine. There are also some special service tools involved too, to lock the positioning of cams and crank so you don't really mess it up. I wouldn't want to do this job. I'm much too impatient...

alldata says it's a 15 hour job. i don't know what shops around your area charge per hour, but the FLM dealership here charges 80 and hour.

Just found this thread and I'm curious did he ever get it running?

cammerfe would likely be a good resource for this. Check out his project in the High Performance section of LVC. He is replacing the internals on his LS (if he hasn't scrapped the 3.9 for something else at this point).

I thought he was using a 4.0 Litre Jag S Type engine.

Just found this thread and I'm curious did he ever get it running?

he did get it running, but the engine was toast with smoke, so it was no good and he ended up wasting a huge chunk of time. He was plenty pissed and had even more reasons to hate the car upon discovering that. Search on his userid, his words tell the story well.

He ends his story on another guy's post..

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=41159