So when doin so...
you need the following, true or false?????

Wiring harness (different and seperate from the "injector harness"...yes or no)

INJECTOR HARNESS (whats wrong with using the stock injector harness)

CUMPUTER (OBD1 with auto trans. not manual, therefore it can not be taken off of a cobra, because all cobras are manual, correct???)

THE MASS AIR METER (this has to be calibrated to the injector size, correct?)

THE MAP SENSOR. (does this have to be calibrated also to the injector size)


Dont list a site to go to. I have checked the other forums and really dont see clear answers to what im asking above about each one of these items.

PLEASE HELP.

Wiring harness (different and seperate from the "injector harness"...yes or no)

This is needed, and is not for the injectors...it is for the ECU.

INJECTOR HARNESS (whats wrong with using the stock injector harness)

I do not know where you even got the idea that this needs replaced. :confused:

CUMPUTER (OBD1 with auto trans. not manual, therefore it can not be taken off of a cobra, because all cobras are manual, correct???)

You could not use a Cobra ECU regardless with stock injectors, as it is setup for 24lb. injectors. You want an A9L or A9P computer; it makes little difference if you get an ECU for a manual or automatic.

THE MASS AIR METER (this has to be calibrated to the injector size, correct?)

True.

THE MAP SENSOR. (does this have to be calibrated also to the injector size)

No, and leave that stock.

Dont list a site to go to. I have checked the other forums and really dont see clear answers to what im asking above about each one of these items.

PLEASE HELP.

It is pretty straight forward, and it has been covered countless times in tech articles as well as all over www.corral.net. Why are you switching to MAF?

because in one-two months i am leaning towards the E303 cam. I have the cobra upper and lower intake manifold along with a 70 mm throttle body. You had told me in another thread that the real problem lies with the restrictive heads. So i have to save a few more bucks for a decent set of heads, THAT, WHILE IM DOING THE CAM, ill be in the area already and might as well change the heads. So just to cover myself in the future, should i go with some sort of major power adder, such as a supercharger, I will have the right set up for it.
SO right now i figure MASS AIR, which confuses me a bit still no matter how much i read, would be the best bet.
I understand that the E303 cam is not an "extreme cam", but still with the addition of the heads, 24 lb injectors, uppper and lower manifold, and throttle body......
....
....
i just cant see the speed density takin it as well as the MAF setup will.

SO i need to get a ecu harness to maf and computer.
and-and maf calibrated for 24 lb injectors.
along with a computer (preferably an "A9P") because the AUTOMATIC settings as opposed to the 5 speed are more aggressive supposedly. YES OR NO???????

And i can use the "existing" fuel injector harness even though im upping the injector size and changing the ecu harness for the MAF conversion?


I think im making some sense. Some sense, maybe?
:)
thanks a lot dude

you might want the maf conv kit a M-12071-F302 for that ...it has the computer and maf all new and no core involved. $395.95 list and cost you $354.00 plus frt. When the went obsolete I bought all frpp had left!!

Max

because in one-two months i am leaning towards the E303 cam. I have the cobra upper and lower intake manifold along with a 70 mm throttle body. You had told me in another thread that the real problem lies with the restrictive heads. So i have to save a few more bucks for a decent set of heads, THAT, WHILE IM DOING THE CAM, ill be in the area already and might as well change the heads. So just to cover myself in the future, should i go with some sort of major power adder, such as a supercharger, I will have the right set up for it.
SO right now i figure MASS AIR, which confuses me a bit still no matter how much i read, would be the best bet.
I understand that the E303 cam is not an "extreme cam", but still with the addition of the heads, 24 lb injectors, uppper and lower manifold, and throttle body......
....
....
i just cant see the speed density takin it as well as the MAF setup will.

SO i need to get a ecu harness to maf and computer.
and-and maf calibrated for 24 lb injectors.
along with a computer (preferably an "A9P") because the AUTOMATIC settings as opposed to the 5 speed are more aggressive supposedly. YES OR NO???????

And i can use the "existing" fuel injector harness even though im upping the injector size and changing the ecu harness for the MAF conversion?


I think im making some sense. Some sense, maybe?
:)
thanks a lot dude

If you are going out and spending money on a cam, there are better options for your money than a letter cam. The 70mm throttle body is too big. Better heads will differently make a big difference, and doing it with the camshaft will save a lot of effort later. There are cams that will work with speed density, if you wish to go that route. You do not need 24lb injectors, the stock ones hold up just fine until you step into more displacement or power adders. The "more aggressive" tune debate is back and forth, and there is not enough difference to even worry about. I am still not certain why you are concerned about the fuel injector harness; it is just wiring, there is no reason to mess with it.

++Leave the fuel injector harness alone.- got it!

++Dont bother installing the 24 lb injectors i got. check!

++Rid of the 70 mm throttle body that you told me on two occasions was oversized. I should look into maybe swapping with somebody for a 65, rite?

So if i go with the maf set up. what combination of heads and cam would be good?

Is your vehicle still air density? if so, what combination of heads and cam work well with the air density system?

thanks man

++Leave the fuel injector harness alone.- got it!

++Dont bother installing the 24 lb injectors i got. check!

++Rid of the 70 mm throttle body that you told me on two occasions was oversized. I should look into maybe swapping with somebody for a 65, rite?

So if i go with the maf set up. what combination of heads and cam would be good?

Is your vehicle still air density? if so, what combination of heads and cam work well with the air density system?

thanks man

Leave the injectors stock, unless you are running more cubes or a power adder. A 65mm TB should be more than adequate for the plans you have suggested. The point of the MAF swap is to open up your options for camshafts without the need for specific tuning. If you choose from a select number of camshafts you can get away with the stock SD system. As for heads, how fast do you want to pay for? Anything from GT40 to AFR165's, and everything in between. It all falls on your value of "bang for the buck."

as far as the top end of the engine goes......what happens when you upgrade and leave the bottom end stock.
Top end is now tight compared to bottom end that has 110k and is 17 years old.
What are the chances that i blow the bottom end?

My mechanic laughed at me when i suggest heads and cam.
The most He said he would suggest is a set of rockers as far as the internals go.
What do you make of this logic.

It kinda crushed the image of gt 40's with a decent cam and rockers.

Should i be concerned of bottom end holding up, before i start researching this a bit more and spending money on a dream that wont hold up very long???

as far as the top end of the engine goes......what happens when you upgrade and leave the bottom end stock.
Top end is now tight compared to bottom end that has 110k and is 17 years old.
What are the chances that i blow the bottom end?

My mechanic laughed at me when i suggest heads and cam.
The most He said he would suggest is a set of rockers as far as the internals go.
What do you make of this logic.

It kinda crushed the image of gt 40's with a decent cam and rockers.

Should i be concerned of bottom end holding up, before i start researching this a bit more and spending money on a dream that wont hold up very long???

Find a new mechanic. The age of an engine does not dictate its current state. You certainly want to do a leak down test and a compression test. As long as they check out, and you have an otherwise healthy engine, there is no reason your engine should not hold up to a little more power. If, however, you have a leaky, smoky engine that eats oil and has poor compression obviously you should consider replacing to rebuilding the shortblock. Spend anytime on www.corral.net or any other big Mustang forum and you will see the countless number of 100k+ mile engines consistently taking plenty of abuse from nitrous, bolt-ons, superchargers, and countless other additions of power.

i have had the car for 6k miles now. Both oil changes, i was asked if it had been 3k already. The oil was extremely clean on both occasions. It burns nothing. So that along with the fact that top and bottom end have zero signs of any kind of leak lead me to beleive that it was well maintained along with the overall appearence outside and inside.
A compression test is a very good suggestion. Thank you.
I have looked at the mustang forums and clearly see the top end modifications with the miles on the blocks.
However, it just seems like it makes a lot of sense that if you modify the top end, of a block that has perfect compression, with 110k on it that there will most DEFINATELY be more stress on the bottom end. Its hard to comprehend that the bottom ends life span will NOT be effected.

i have had the car for 6k miles now. Both oil changes, i was asked if it had been 3k already. The oil was extremely clean on both occasions. It burns nothing. So that along with the fact that top and bottom end have zero signs of any kind of leak lead me to beleive that it was well maintained along with the overall appearence outside and inside.
A compression test is a very good suggestion. Thank you.
I have looked at the mustang forums and clearly see the top end modifications with the miles on the blocks.
However, it just seems like it makes a lot of sense that if you modify the top end, of a block that has perfect compression, with 110k on it that there will most DEFINATELY be more stress on the bottom end. Its hard to comprehend that the bottom ends life span will NOT be effected.

Do a leak down test as well. Putting more power on the top does not necessarily mean a shorter life span for the bottom if you do things properly. The stock block is good for 500hp+, and as long as you do things properly longevity should not be affected. Through all of the work on my engine I have increased its' efficiency.

compression test.
and leak down test.
just called my mechanics secretary possibly this friday or next monday i can have it done.
so until than its standby.
thanks for the advice

SO....
how plans change, when repairs are needed......

SIGHS OF MISSERYYYYYYYYYYYYYY....

So i went in originaly for a compression test..
but...
repairs were needed in other departments first to get things runnin nicely nicely.

SO god looked down at me and said, " you need to wait on performance upgrades and get your car runnin right"

4 calipers,
new brake lines,
3 rotors.
4 new sets of pads,

Voltage regulator
Battery

Pulleys.
Belt.
Belt Tensioner


GR2 struts up front.
(Lower control arms up front are waiting to go in.)

New Splash Shield for passenger side front wheel well.
(water sprayin up from tire into intake is not really a good thing ;) )

Cap,
rotor,
wires,
pcv valve,
and plugs.

New flashers,
Signal switch thing ( u know for turn signal operation, wipers blah blah)
Wiring was all messed up-somedbody butchered it. so that too was replaced

cold air intake
(stock was cracked-how i dont know-but it was)

both window motors.


NOW FOR THE STILL NEED SECTION---------

-------
Driver side mirror does not work....

NOr does the sunroof switch-its loose and is not makin contact to close it. It only opens. ALso the temp and compass stays black. NEver have i seen it go on. Just the warning lights work for system diag. reasons-ya know what im talking about.

Rear end will drop slowly if not started over a period of three days. So a slow leak somewhere.



IS THERE NO END TO THIS>>>>>>>>>>>

I hear you brother! I am in the same boat. My to do list is longer that the completed list. Just had the wheels balanced and man, what a dream ride.

so along with the work posted in my above posts...
i am just about to do the rear bags now.
one side sits lower. so i might as well do them both.
kyb gas adjusts are sitting next to me waiting for the bags.

Front control arms will go in a couple of weeks once the ball joints arrive.

Only other thing i need possibly is to replace the rear control arm bushings when i do the struts and the bags.


Sigh the misery involved to get that nice riding vehicle.

It's all well worth it. I had the windshield replaced and found out the "pinch welds" are rusted pretty bad. A little sanding, primer and sealant and it's good as new, for now. I plan on a body shop R&R'ing the exterior. With what I saw under the windshield sealant, that's one more item on the list. As well as this; http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=42257 and a MAF upgrade and ...!!!

:cool: