Hey guys, I'm gonna have to replace my fuel pump pretty soon. Which pump do you guys recommended that is close to a direct fit with allmost no modification? Plus where do you guys recommended buying it from?

Walbro Fuel pump

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=36187&highlight=fuel+pump

I did buy mine from JD's performance only cost me 90.00 shipped & I live in Canada
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=436&fcmd=item&inmake=0
and the regulator is backordered for a couple weeks
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=77&fcmd=item&inmake=0
hope it helps

The OEM one is %$^&#$ STUPID PRICED......

They dont list a pump for a mark 8. Whiich pump do I get from which vechicle?

Call them... they know which one you need. That's what I didn. I got mine through JD also. Great price

here we go again! :-) do a write up!

96-97 cobra fuel pump part #GSS342
94-98 Fuel pressure regulator part #KIR5018 option B for 96-97 32 valve 4.6L

Hey guys, I'm gonna have to replace my fuel pump pretty soon. Which pump do you guys recommended that is close to a direct fit with allmost no modification? Plus where do you guys recommended buying it from?

try stock it will fit just right!

if it is a gen 1 then u take a Walbro a gen 2 then you take an svt fouse fual pump i think

if it is a gen 1 then u take a Walbro a gen 2 then you take an svt fouse fual pump i think

Yep, gen 2 basket is different, Walbro doesn't fit right without a lot of modification.

Walbro Fuel pump

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=36187&highlight=fuel+pump

I did buy mine from JD's performance only cost me 90.00 shipped & I live in Canada
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=436&fcmd=item&inmake=0
and the regulator is backordered for a couple weeks
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=77&fcmd=item&inmake=0
hope it helps

The OEM one is %$^&#$ STUPID PRICED......

Link/phone number for JD's performance?

Am 99% sure my problems are fuel related, don't want to pay the $300 Cdn for a fuel pump from the Furd dealer, much less whatever they want for a regulator.

$90 shipped for a fuel pump is a BARGAIN!

here we go again! :-) do a write up!

*joking grin*

"YOU" should do a write up Abe!

I mean, it'd be a gesture of "giving back" to the community that helps you out in your TIMES of need...only seems fair..right?

You have 332 posts, how many of those end in ?

Abe I'm just givin ya a hard time bro.

yooooooooooooooo thats low! i would have but in my own way i showed what was wrong with the write ups for gen 1's... i guess when my levler float comes in ill go through it all again

...yea, and make certain you have your camera ready, you sound like you are good at dropping that tank by now.:joke

its a breeze :-) just leave one of the bolts out! :-) rofl

I think next time the rear bolts stay in for me.... I dropped all four out. Well, since I have the WRONG filter on the dang thing I am guessing I will be dropping the tank again too!

Ohhh boy cranks are gettin a lil longer now... Think I will be next in line for this fun filled project.

i dont know whats good... but after having this walboro - it takes a bit longer for me to start my car then before - granted i have a small vac leak and i guess my o2 sensors are going but i just wanted to throw that on there just in case anyone else experienced that with the walboro. its just slightly longer, yea i know i know i need to check the fuel pressure - but moneys tight right now.

I think next time the rear bolts stay in for me.... I dropped all four out. Well, since I have the WRONG filter on the dang thing I am guessing I will be dropping the tank again too!

ok heres what I did, and most on this forum because I ask too many questions so ill through some facts on.

this is like my rough draft for the Gen 1 walboro write up, feel free to agree disagree correct me - because im just jotting this all down before i fine tune it.

also do this with your car almost on empty, unless you like gas spilling... makes the job that much easier - as some will definetly tell you.

Pop the hood, go to your factory manual that will show you exactly where your fuse for your fuel pump is. pull that fuse - its in the black box near the battery that houses the hi watt fuses - its a yellow one 25 i think? before two reds, but double check to be sure. crank the car- this will allow unused gas to cycle through. after doing this crank it again to make sure all gas it out.

next go to the Schrader valve, its a black cap - like three times the size of one that would go on your tires - untwist and youll see a valve with that you can press with a phillips or smaller screw driver to relieve the fuel system pressure - there wont be much because youve already cranked it.

another way instaed of pulling the fuse, is going to the back of the trunk and going behind on the drivers side matt (and pushing up on the gas shut off switch) the fuse way is much easier, i did it that way but to each his own.

next step - take the the negative cable off of the battery - and secure it away from being able to touch again.

jack the car up towards the middle on the frame - Get a good jack if your cars lowered because it takes a lot to get that beast up in the air enough to slide under there comfortable.

- dropping the exhaust - theres two rubber things on either side of the mufflers which you push and pull to get it off the metal hook that holds it. Or if your like me and can't get it the first time, i just unbolted the one side. (if you cant wiggle the rubber thing out the hanger.

go to the midpipe - and unbolt the exhaust there, its like two 15 or 13mm bolts i believe, and bam your exhaust is off.

now - take your jack (of course your car has to be on jack stands) and jack up on the gas tank slightly so it supports it but isnt crushing it.

unbolt 13mm strap towards the front of the car, like me youll see a strap in plain view, the one on the passenger side. the other on the drivers side is harder to spot but its there. Unbolt both of those.

-lower the jack slightly - the tank will be loose and come down a bit, but youll have to fight it a bit for it to competely fall because its wedged a bit where it sits.

ok now youll see the fuel pump housing and another gas return housing, the fuel pump housing has a metal ring around in and thicker lines running to it.

you can pull off the two that attatch to the gas return line (doenst have fluid)

the two that actually hook to the fuel pump do have fluid and those have to be unhooked with small flat head screw driver - dont break or lose the clips because you need them to reinstall. also if your having trouble, you can just leave them on but it will make the job a bit harder to manuever the fuel pump housing once you have the fuel pump housing out of the fuel tank.

unhook the fuel pump harness from the fuel pump, mine was tucked under the protective covering of the fuel tank.

take a hammer and medium size screw driver, and stroke the notches that hold the fuel pump housing into the fuel tank - i believe its counter clock wise, ill edit later

once you pop it off you pull the old pump out of the tank, from there you unbolt with 8mm bolts from the housing, slide the walboro on there, fit with new fuel line from a local parts store - i personally suggest bringing the old piece in there to get the right size, i think its 5/16th hose? get clamps a little bit bigger so it allows you to clamp it down tight.


Do not reuse the stock clamps and tubing from the walboro to the bracket - because itll split, and youll have to redo it again.

use the fuel sock that comes with the walboro pump. to fit this while reuising the rubber isolator (the rubber coat the stock fuel pump is wearing) you will have to cut the bottom of that rubber isolator to allow the fuel sock to fit on. mine ripped so i didnt even put it on. put the clamp that holds the stock pump to the bracket.

It you're having trouble sliding the walboro onto the new bracket you can break off one of the prongs or dremmel it down so it fits, because the walboro is wider. i was able to fit it on but pressing hard.

be careful with the levler float, my suggestion is instantly disconnect it from the harness when you pull it out the fuel pump. i broke mine off because when i took the fuel pump bracket out the wire broke off from the soder point on the guage attatched to the levler float.

now plug everything back. and go back through the steps the opposite way.

damn longer cranks

What?

Abe, will you please start spelling Walbro correctly!?! :Bang

you got it!

Why did you bring this thread back?

i brought it back cuz im having longer cranks ever since i did my install of the walbro which was way back when, and I still havn't got it addressed. Anyone got any ideas on this? It never starts up the way it used to before I messed with it. Does the tank have to be pressurized? Does that have something to do with long cranks. Perhaps that gasket that goes underneath the housing between the tank could be the culprit!

So you say

Damn longer Cranks...

and we are supposed to have any clue as to what in the hell you are talking about?

i dont know whats good... but after having this walboro - it takes a bit longer for me to start my car then before

Ohhh boy cranks are gettin a lil longer now... Think I will be next in line for this fun filled project.

yikes! longer cranks! what is the deal?

Oh crap.. I'm beginning to understand ABE!

*hangs head in dismay*

KK: he's talking about when he starts his car it's taking longer and longer to crank.

I doubt it's fuel pump related, actually.

damn longer cranks

That's what she said! :p

That's what brought this post back from a few months ago... I wish I could make that little sense....

That's what she said! :p

pad

What?

Why?
LMAO

Curious minds want to know... lol

Has anyone installed a Walbro with out the rubber insolater? Also, Has anyone installed this with out dremelling or cutting the fuel bump housing support, I remember I wedged the walbro in there, and it fit, but it was a tight fit. I'm thinking something is funky with my pump install. Still having the issues with the car taking longer than normal to crank. I think my hp problems may be directly related.

-Waiting on the fuel pressure guage still.

I have read on some other posts, that the walbro high output/pressure may damage/will require to run a different fuel pressure regulator? Is this correct. I've had the stock one in for little over 8 months now, i've pulled off the vac line twice and never smelled gas FTW

So you want us to guess at what your fuel pressure is... HMMM.... my internet magic 8 ball says 33.75.... How about you wait till you have the gauge and come back and tell us a pressure and we can go form there.

Did some reading on other sites, that walbros are known to not hold line pressure. That the anti check valve something or other frequently go bad resulting in longer cranks. This explains why it takes longer to crank cold. Yes KK I know I don't have the guage that's why I explained it hasn't come yet.

Why are you asking for help when we are just going to need to wait for you to get a pressure reading anyways?????????????????

If it takes longer to crank and you suspect it's not holding fuel pressure in the line, turn the key to the on for a few seconds to let the pump build up pressure before you start cranking. If it starts right away after trying this, yeah, it's losing pressure...

Ok 32 psi at idle, turn key on spike 42 psi but does not hold pressure in the line once the fuel bump cyles on... It goes right back to Zero. With the fpr vac line off car at idle 42 psi.

Now we have some real info... Definitely sounds like something is leaking down in the system very quickly....

Could you get a reading at wot under load (driving) with the vacumm line on the FPR.... This will help to know if your car actually is getting enough fuel.

41-42 psi at wot, with the vac line on the FPR

I've read that some of the walboros dont hold pressure in the lines while the car is off due to safety reasons or something? NHRA possibly?

bump

never heard of no safety bs. sounds like a bad check valve in the pump, or a leak somewhere.

Abe you might want to check that rubber inlet where the sock attaches

if you didn't remove one of the two fingers on the bottom of the bracket you could have sliced that rubber tube.

my 255 walboro wouldn't hold pressure after shutting the motor off, but it never gave me any hard start or long cranking issues.

How long does your car crank before starting abe?

its not that long, its only on cold starts. Ice cold starts, it'll take about 4-5secs with me watching the guage. I'm getting good fuel pressure all around when the cars on. I'll watching the fuel pressure build up to about 20 ish and then itll come on full going to the normal 31-32 at idle.

But as soon as I prime it, it'll spike to 41 psi ish, then immidiately not hold pressure and go back to zero. If its warmed up it'll start up though, but it takes a 2 secs usually. Before it would instantly start up.

It's probably the check valve in the fuel pump, because if im getting good FP regardless.

Abe you might want to check that rubber inlet where the sock attaches

if you didn't remove one of the two fingers on the bottom of the bracket you could have sliced that rubber tube.

my 255 walboro wouldn't hold pressure after shutting the motor off, but it never gave me any hard start or long cranking issues.

Yea, it's worth checking out. But if I have to tear that fuel pump out again, im just going to have it replaced with another unit. I think I have a year warranty on it.

From what I gather the check valve is an internal part of the fuel pump. Guess they're not made that well. Everything looked fine when I installed it. I did wedge it between the fingers but I bent the bottom bracket a bit so it would fit snug. I did forcibly do anything that would cause damage.

never heard of no safety bs. sounds like a bad check valve in the pump, or a leak somewhere.

+1 but this wouldn't be the reason for less then expected performence though, because im still getting the correct fuel pressure in the rail at wot above 3000> right?

its just the fuel system doesn't hold pressure while the pump isn't pumping

You have more than adequette fule pressure.... 40's at WOT under load means everything is working Aok!

You have more than adequette fule pressure.... 40's at WOT under load means everything is working Aok!

yup, just a bleed down problem

I'd just deal due to my hatred for dropping gas tanks....

i hate it too, the exhaust is more of a pain in the ass... ive been scraping it all the time, if something falls down god forbid then its fuel pump time. How long can you leave a fuel pressure guage on there for?

I don't have a schrader valve, i have it removed for an adapter that runs 1/8NPT to my fuel selenoid for my wet kit. So I removed the fuel hose that came with the guage, and screwed it the wet kit fuel line right into the guage. I've had it on there a day or two, kinda coming out of the hood so i can see it on the windshield. How long can you normally keep a guage like that on there for? It just started making this annoying rattling noise that i thought might be the engine, but it turns out its the guage rattling. Shoulda just bought a autometer one for the money and been done with it.

The only bad thing KK is that if it doesnt hold line in the line after the engines off, I can't test leak down to know if say one of the injectors is leaking because the line doesn't hold pressure.

Leak down of injectors... meh... They really don't go bad.... no very often at least.