So, after spraying about 2 cans of WD-40 into the door jambs over the past few months, I decided to fix the problem once and for all. I simply cut the wire, not only to the message center, but to the anti-theft, and keyless entry modules. I can open the door and it does not give the alarm (of course with the car running) and everything else works fine. I just no longer get the dreaded "Door Ajar" message. The pin/plunger that engages that message/problem is so small, and if there is ANY kind of debris in there, it does not allow the pin/plunger to go into the hole for it in the door mechanism and gives you a false alarm. So, I just cut the lines to the message center and associated modules and no more "Door Ajar" message...... :N :Beer

Good Job!

:Beer

ray is awsome lol

I just hope he doesn't get a recurring hangnail! :N

I just hope he doesn't get a recurring hangnail! :N

Or I may just cut off the antagonistic digit..... :N

Newbie here, and I must first say that this forum is great!

I probably have a similar problem, my 94 Lincoln Mark VIII's onboard computer display almost always shows "DOOR AJAR". The interior lights do not stay on and there is no beeping noise, like when the door is actually open. Once in a while it goes away (I guess when whichever door is giving the problem just happens to get closed just right).

Will just spraying WD40 help me? any idea's other than cutting the wires?

It's really annoying not being able to set the freaking clock after the battery is disconnected, not to mention not being able to see all the other info.

Yeah... WD-40 ought to work... It does return from time to time...
I think they fixed that issue on the Gen-2...

Newbie here, and I must first say that this forum is great!

I probably have a similar problem, my 94 Lincoln Mark VIII's onboard computer display almost always shows "DOOR AJAR". The interior lights do not stay on and there is no beeping noise, like when the door is actually open. Once in a while it goes away (I guess when whichever door is giving the problem just happens to get closed just right).

Will just spraying WD40 help me? any idea's other than cutting the wires?

It's really annoying not being able to set the freaking clock after the battery is disconnected, not to mention not being able to see all the other info.

Well, I cut the wires not only for the message, but I plan on some custom work, and do not want the message later on.

Using WD-40 should work. What you do is spray it in the latch mechanism and then open and close the door a few times. Each time you open spray a lil more in there. Not much is needed, but more will not hurt. That should take care of your problems.

Also....:W to the LvC! :Beer

Well, I cut the wires not only for the message, but I plan on some custom work, and do not want the message later on.

Using WD-40 should work. What you do is spray it in the latch mechanism and then open and close the door a few times. Each time you open spray a lil more in there. Not much is needed, but more will not hurt. That should take care of your problems.

Also....:W to the LvC! :Beerthe problem exists in the gen2 cars also. a lil wd-40 should fix yer up.
eric

I would like to recommend 2 products. The first is called PB blaster and comes in a real tacky looking can.This is by far the best penetrant/rust eater around. Spraying this in the latches and hinges will eat away any corrosion. The 2nd is called delayed viscosity grease. It sprays from the can as a liquid to pentrate into recesses, and then sets up into a medium weight grease. Its great for seeping into the many crevices of a latch and lasts much longer that WD-40. Most bigger parts stores should carry both.

i would not mind having my 96 w/ out all these dam electronics. after time all this :q:q:q:q is going to brake and why spend the money to fix it, who need a door ajar mesage anyways. you cant tell that the door is not closed..duh!!! who need how many miles you have till the gas is empty and what direction your going in..who need a/c and heat........ :N

Yep, WD-40 worked! It took a day or two before it started working though. What a simple solution, and my car had that message for a few years and I never tried to do anything b/c I thought it would be tough to fix... I'm glad I found this site.
Thanks!

Yep, WD-40 worked! It took a day or two before it started working though. What a simple solution, and my car had that message for a few years and I never tried to do anything b/c I thought it would be tough to fix... I'm glad I found this site.
Thanks!

Glad we could help! :Beer

i got tired of it too, so i just took off my doors and hood. 8P


thats how its done if you want it fixed for good, and for real

i got tired of it too, so i just took off my doors and hood. 8P


:Beer :wrench :GotPics:

Sounds like it's duct tape time. Just replace the switch and fix it properly.

hey Ray...I just saw an article in "Low Lincoln" magazine....you're other door is AJAR.

hahahaha...J/K...nice job pal...so, no adverse/side effects from this? Keyless entry, remote entry, anti-theft...how were they effected?

is there a way to completely disable anti theft by cutting wires? Because right now I can only open my door with the code or the alarm goes off. Also, if i remove and then reconnect the battery, the alarm goes off....

Sounds like it's duct tape time. Just replace the switch and fix it properly.


There is nothing wrong with the switch itself, just the piss poor design of it. The problem is that without ANY dirt in/on the pin that actuates the door ajar warning, the pin BARELY has any room to go into the slot in the assembly. SO, when dirt is in/on the spring, it is not strong enuf to push the pin and the dirt that is there thru the slot in the assembly........thus you have the door ajar warning. :Beer

hey Ray...I just saw an article in "Low Lincoln" magazine....you're other door is AJAR.

hahahaha...J/K...nice job pal...so, no adverse/side effects from this? Keyless entry, remote entry, anti-theft...how were they effected?

Actually the wire that I cut is the warning for both doors.

The only adverse/side effect is that the interior lights MIGHT stay on after you have exited the car because the switch is not disengaged by not sliding into the slot in the assembly. But, to tell you the truth, I have no idea. The car is still broke down and I have had the battery disconnected for quite some time now. Also, I have a Viper alarm on it, and I do not use any of the factory units. :Beer

Actually the wire that I cut is the warning for both doors.Wuss. You should have just pull the door panel and replaced the darn thing. And you call yourself a mechanic? Hahttp://www.lincolnvscadillac.com//images/icons/icon12.gif

Wuss. You should have just pull the door panel and replaced the darn thing. And you call yourself a mechanic? Hahttp://www.lincolnvscadillac.com//images/icons/icon12.gif

Why spend the money when the problem will reappear anyways. I am going to do what I did on my green car when I shaved the door handles......I am gonna take the unit out and the wires associated with the whole assembly. :N

I replaced the switches on both my doors. It was a simple job. In retrospect, I think I could have gotten away with just removing, and cleaning off the switches instead of buying new ones.

This is an annoyance every Mark VIII owner may face.
I think a tech article is in order.

wd40 is working for my car
i yoused it on all 3 passanger doors but have a difrent problem with the driver door
the door dosn,t wana tell me that it,s oppen it never sess open always closed no matter how mouch wd40 i yous i could go threw 10 cans and it won,t work i think the switch is fried what do i do

I replaced the switches on both my doors. It was a simple job. In retrospect, I think I could have gotten away with just removing, and cleaning off the switches instead of buying new ones.

This is an annoyance every Mark VIII owner may face.
I think a tech article is in order.


So, I guess you saw what I was talking about with the hole/slot for the actuator/pin to go into the assembly? ANY debris in there will not allow the actuator/pin to slide into the hole/slot for it causing the alarm to appear.

That is why I am just gonna rip the whole assembly outta there and be done with it. :Beer :Bang

wow good job ray. lol i know people who do the same for the check engine light.

wow good job ray. lol i know people who do the same for the check engine light.
:N :N :N